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First, this is GREAT! Second, I'm sure this will turn into a wish list, so I'll submit the first wish - 96 GS flares, both upper and lower. The prices charged for them are insane even with the Corvette tax.
I've been looking at a Toledo Pro hood from ACI, but I'd be just as happy to have a scoop and bond it to the hood. My question is - how to you 3D print something that big and what material do you print it out of?
If anyone has the fender flares sitting around, it would be relatively simple to make a model...
My cowl is split into 22 parts, they're printed out of PETG for the initial temperature resistance and ease of printing, but in essence, I am using the print as a consumable fiberglass form. It needs to have a higher glass transition temp than PLA because while the resin cures it can deform the mold making all that time and effort null. My process is as follows, print all the parts, tape the exterior seams together and then flip it so the underside is exposed. From there I give it a few layers of resin, this does three things, it ups the materials temperature resistance, mechanically bonds all the parts together, and fills the voids between layers that all FDM machines will have, from there, I flip it and give it a few coats on the top. I do it in this order because this way the resin can fill in any of the gaps caused by flaws in the 3D print, you'll also be able see them and sand them out first. You'll actually see just how porous 3D prints are as well, the resin will soak into the part and penetrate the layers, I've seen as far as 3mm penetration depending on the viscosity of the resin at the time of application. The end result is a waterproof, tough, and temperature resistant part that is sandable, primable, and paintable, that is strong but not necessarily tough. The resin makes the part more brittle and the part is only as strong as the weakest seams. This is where the fiberglass comes in, it makes a rigid strong shell that can be structural if desired, but for most people, a layer of chopped strand and mat are enough strength, but thats all personal preference, you could even do a layer of carbon fiber and run it "naked" for the looks. In theory, you could gel coat the 3D printed part and actually use it as a form if you desired, but in this case its easier to use it as a consumable form as not much time needs to be invested in preparing the print, just some basic body work prep and sanding.
Last edited by ThatOneKid; Aug 27, 2021 at 08:55 AM.
If anyone has the fender flares sitting around, it would be relatively simple to make a model...
My cowl is split into 22 parts, they're printed out of PETG for the initial temperature resistance and ease of printing, but in essence, I am using the print as a consumable fiberglass form. It needs to have a higher glass transition temp than PLA because while the resin cures it can deform the mold making all that time and effort null. My process is as follows, print all the parts, tape the exterior seams together and then flip it so the underside is exposed. From there I give it a few layers of resin, this does three things, it ups the materials temperature resistance, mechanically bonds all the parts together, and fills the voids between layers that all FDM machines will have, from there, I flip it and give it a few coats on the top. I do it in this order because this way the resin can fill in any of the gaps caused by flaws in the 3D print, you'll also be able see them and sand them out first. You'll actually see just how porous 3D prints are as well, the resin will soak into the part and penetrate the layers, I've seen as far as 3mm penetration depending on the viscosity of the resin at the time of application. The end result is a waterproof, tough, and temperature resistant part that is sandable, primable, and paintable, that is strong but not necessarily tough. The resin makes the part more brittle and the part is only as strong as the weakest seams. This is where the fiberglass comes in, it makes a rigid strong shell that can be structural if desired, but for most people, a layer of chopped strand and mat are enough strength, but thats all personal preference, you could even do a layer of carbon fiber and run it "naked" for the looks. In theory, you could gel coat the 3D printed part and actually use it as a form if you desired, but in this case its easier to use it as a consumable form as not much time needs to be invested in preparing the print, just some basic body work prep and sanding.
Well,
It has been a few years, but I am finally back working on modeling and scanning the C4. This time, I have some better tools that make it much easier and quicker to get accurate and usable results. There are a couple of major projects currently in the works, first of which is a new rad mount and ducting that will allow me to mount the rad tilted forward so that I can fit a proper air box for the LSA to breathe, the fog lights will get a modern LED light that will allow me to use the rest of the opening for air intake and brake ducts, lastly is a new hood cowl to clear the LSA and throttle body.
The end goal will be to keep as much heat out of the engine bay by venting the hood and sealing the cooling stack to the hood, this should keep the under-hood temps much lower and help with the low-speed cooling issues of the C4. Here is a little teaser of the progress so far, I am still getting used to this new 3D scanner but the results are so much better than my photogrammetry setup and it only takes a few minutes compared to hours.
In case this "classic" from the old days (sold by Vanacors or Vanacorvette?) provides any inspiration...
That actually looks pretty darn good IMO. That's good inspiration, I've been messing around this week trying to blend it into the hood more and never thought to do a "double bump" cowl like that. Not sure if id be able to get anything usable out of the naca ducts but I do like that design more than mine. Ill see what I come up with.
Anyone have a scan of the indie and outside of the tail light / brake lights housings? These are just a hunk of plastic that are begging to be 3D printed
Along with that, back in the 90’s there used to be to be plastic emblems for the back bumper for: LT1, LT4, Z51, Z07 in a similar manner of the ZR-1 emblems. These are unavailable today but again, begging to be 3D printed in say nylon.
Last edited by 66_Soloracer; Aug 17, 2025 at 08:21 AM.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Originally Posted by ThatOneKid
That actually looks pretty darn good IMO. That's good inspiration, I've been messing around this week trying to blend it into the hood more and never thought to do a "double bump" cowl like that. Not sure if id be able to get anything usable out of the naca ducts but I do like that design more than mine. Ill see what I come up with.
Yeah, it's not the vents that do it for me either. I just like the "ribbed vents". Bet they'd look good even with a single-plane cowl.
Yeah, it's not the vents that do it for me either. I just like the "ribbed vents". Bet they'd look good even with a single-plane cowl.
Well made some progress on the cowl, I am between keeping the cowl short like this or extending it all the way to the end of the hood. I have it this short so that I still have room for venting the radiator stack through the hood rather than keeping that heat under the hood, if I extend all the way to the end I would have to integrate the two, but I am not sure how that would affect the performance of the rad stack just yet. Don't mind the sharp edges, that was fixed.
