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I am planning to pull my transmission from my 93 6spd with 45k miles. Primary goal being to eliminate/minimize a shudder I have going into 1st/reverse and generally "check out" the health of the clutch/flywheel/TO bearing etc... and go to a short throw shifter. (I've talked to Bill and he seemed to think the PP had been replaced by PO and was out of spec, but I have no idea if it's been touched). There is also a nice whir in neutral with clutch engaged (ie foot off of pedal) so I'll be doing the pilot bushing (with an oil impregnated fluted bronze bushing)... I replaced all hydraulics and the line last year. Will be installing beam plates, and have studied the forum/zfdoc for instructions/tricks.
I have never pulled the trans in this car before (but did do the exhaust on jack stands so at least that will come off easily). I am planning on using 6 ton jack stands with a 20-21" lift. I'm probably going to have to do the entire thing myself, so am looking at a trans jack...either a HF 450lbs scissor or 800lbs hydraulic. The scissor jack seems to be able to get an inch or so lower but has less adjustability. Those who have pulled their trans with this sort of height, will this work and which would be better (or something else)? Can I get the transmission low enough with a 20-21 inch lift from the jack stands? (honestly if I cannot get it out from under the car it's not the end of the world but it sure would be nice to for the room to work). I have a daytona low profile 3 ton jack (~20 inch lift), another cheapo jack, bottle jack, extra stands etc... Planning to use the 3 ton jack to manipulate the engine under pan. Anything else I should consider? Always makes me nervous working under the car so I'll have wheels or something else under there just in case...
If the TO bearing is aftermarket or otherwise bad OR I still have the DMF and it is not useable (requiring a SMF replacement)...I am strongly considering going to the RAM clutch setup... I'm just not sure I could trust any currently offered new TO bearings...? Is this crazy or ? I know it may be easier to just plop a cheapo bearing on there with a properly machined PP from zfdoc if the DMF is fine...BUT....should I just do this now anyway? Also, I am assuming I will need to get the ram flywheel match balanced to the DMF? Also would do the zfdoc shim if swapping...
Finally got all the parts a couple of weeks ago, ZFdoc parts/shifter mods as well, and got everything setup and stitched back together (minus the interior). Things went *relatively* smoothly, I did take my time as this is my first clutch and this was a "conversion" to the RAM setup, and I had to redo some things as I went. Hopefully you like pics and vids because here comes a bunch/big post.
After being frustrated with pilot bearing removers (too big or broken), the slide hammer I rented was found to thread perfectly into the soft pilot bearing and allowed for easy removal...use at your own risk but worked great!
Cleaned up with maroon scotch bright pads. Shows stud and countersunk bolt.
RAM hydraulic TO bearing, note rubber o-ring inside sleeve
bellhousing installed for measurement of face to clutch finger measurement with caliper
Mockup with provided shims (took all of them) to make sure of correct gap between bearing face and clutch fingers with TO bearing fully retracted (too small and you have short clutch life, too big and clutch won't disengage or TO bearing will pop c clip at end of sleeve). Also note mark on stud which indicates where to trim back stud to prevent any chance of interference with PP.
Ready to install transmission. Aluminum spacers were removed, surfaces cleaned of corrosion with scraper and maroon scotch brite. You can see some left over pitting from the corrosion, but the surface is flat and smooth.
Hydraulic line connections (holy adapters batman). Moved the lines up from this position to keep away from exhaust after bleeding and keep from flopping. NOTE: the bleeder provided is terrible, because it threads directly into the loose nut at the end of the hydraulic hose. This means it leaks like crazy at that spinny joint, and of course my vacuum bleeder would not work. Luckily I have a 12 year old son who helped me bleed it the old fashioned way. It should come with an adapter that screws into the end of the hose with the bleeder screw inside of that. I swear that the adapters would not go another way...
final location of hydraulic lines
Do not put the hole here, mostly a waste. Should be closer towards the mating surface with the trans (hard to get an angle to the stud/TO bearing). Rubber cap on way.
At this point I had a problem. The transmission when installing would not push in the last quarter inch no matter what I did. Before I broke something I decided to "see" what was going on, so ran out and picked up a borescope since I couldn't see well enough from my stupidly cut hole in the bellhousing and sure didn't want to poke another hole. I suspected that it could be something with the TO bearing binding (sleeve to trans collar) since it should have already made its way at least partially into the pilot bearing, and I wanted to be 100% sure the TO bearing was on the stud. On a hunch, I setup the new toy on "record" and pumped the not fully bled clutch. here is what I saw:
Pumping the clutch (I had a bolt loosely installed to prevent the trans from sliding way back) did the trick to completely seat the TO bearing, and it slid together just fine (not sure that was the holdup but it worked!).
transmission mated. At very top of pic can barely see bolt with cut off head used as guides (x2). Careful not to make it so after install you cannot get the guide bolts back out!
Trans fully installed, hydraulic connections and view of TO bearing back to ensure amount of free space is approximately correct to spec (should be .135-.2, which you can see "about .2" between the shims and bottom of the TO bearing). (borescope)
view of stud with TO bearing (fully installed) (borescope)
ZFDoc beam plates, with driveline alignment spacer/helpers (didn't expect that!)
C-beam beam plate installed (trans). I think I am going to regret following the directions to put window weld on there (there was no goop when I pulled things apart and it was fine). Plus regardless of trying to use gloves...my hands are still black with urethane.
I still won't have a chance for a test drive for a bit (I have to finish my stereo install and other odds and ends, plus want the salt gone from the roads), but I fired it up on the jack stands and everything appears to be working perfectly and shifted fine into first/second (I kept it very slow since suspension drooping). I can tell it's already "snappier" just with the modest weight reduction of the steel SMF. I threw the RAM SMF directly on there with no match balance and there is 0 vibration at 3k RPM (it's smoother than it *ever* was)...many reasons why I decided to leave it alone I can go into if anyone is curious. Clutch pedal feels a little "lighter" than stock but smoother/more consistent (throughout the range) and completely silent. No more pilot bearing whir either!!!!!!!!!!! ->
Parts:
- RAM C4 Clutch Conversion (steel flywheel, organic disk)
- ARP flywheel bolts (RAM 575)
- ZFDoc short shifter (shipped my entire shifter assembly and had numerous parts replaced and freshened up)
- ZFDoc beam plates
- ZFDoc shim kit
- Fluted bronze oilite pilot bushing
- New reverse switch
- New shifter rubber boot (planning to put baby powder on it before installing to prevent rubber squeaks, similar to the "powder" coating on the OEM boot)
- CAGS disconnect plugs
Misc parts "while I'm in there":
- New fuel filter
- New O2 sensors
- New RMS
Final note...that excessive corrosion was due to PO having mice live above the transmission in the tunnel apparently... their feces was up there and obviously they literally "peed" onto the interface between the trans and bellhousing... now I'm glad I have a garage cat!
I'm not sure this reply will be particularly helpful, but FWIW:
I tore mine down on a Kwiklift, using the HF hydraulic trans jack you linked. I found the jack to be adequate for the task. I used a cross-bridge with a scissor jack under the oil pan to support the rear of the engine. I was unable to roll the jack with transmission on it out from under the car. The Kwiklift ramps were the obstacles on either side, the lift pipe was the obstacle to the rear, and the cross bridge was the obstacle in front. It was an enormous PITA trying to work around that thing in the already-confined space under the car. I'd probably never try it again. Having said all of this, my set-up was obviously somewhat different from what you're planning, so you might have the necessary headroom to roll everything out from under your car. The Kwiklift gets the car approximately 20 inches higher than if it were resting on the floor. Not to the frame, but rather to the bottom of the tires.
I went with the Spec extra-mass billet steel single-mass flywheel, and am pleased with it. I have nearly zero additional gear noise at idle compared to with the factory DMF. At the time I did mine, I was unaware of the deficiency that Bill Boudreau has identified with the chinesium pressure plates, so I installed it straight out of the box. I have a bit of clutch chatter when the car is stone cold, which largely abates after warm-up. I went with the Spec Stage 2 clutch package, and used the TOB that they were at that time furnishing with the package. No problems so far, but that was probably around ten years ago, so should not be any basis for comparison to what might be available today. I would definitely send the PP to Bill to be trued-up prior to installing, if I were doing it today. I would ask Bill for a recommendation for a TOB, as it's a job you don't want to have to do more than once if at all possible.
I did take the new Spec extra-mass SMF and my original DMF to the House of Balance in Maryland, and found that the SMF was almost perfectly matched, out-of-the-box, to the old SMF. FWIW. I'd recommend you have your new stuff checked -- again, because this is a job you don't want to have to do twice.
I'm not sure this reply will be particularly helpful, but FWIW:
I tore mine down on a Kwiklift, using the HF hydraulic trans jack you linked. I found the jack to be adequate for the task. I used a cross-bridge with a scissor jack under the oil pan to support the rear of the engine. I was unable to roll the jack with transmission on it out from under the car. The Kwiklift ramps were the obstacles on either side, the lift pipe was the obstacle to the rear, and the cross bridge was the obstacle in front. It was an enormous PITA trying to work around that thing in the already-confined space under the car. I'd probably never try it again. Having said all of this, my set-up was obviously somewhat different from what you're planning, so you might have the necessary headroom to roll everything out from under your car. The Kwiklift gets the car approximately 20 inches higher than if it were resting on the floor. Not to the frame, but rather to the bottom of the tires.
I went with the Spec extra-mass billet steel single-mass flywheel, and am pleased with it. I have nearly zero additional gear noise at idle compared to with the factory DMF. At the time I did mine, I was unaware of the deficiency that Bill Boudreau has identified with the chinesium pressure plates, so I installed it straight out of the box. I have a bit of clutch chatter when the car is stone cold, which largely abates after warm-up. I went with the Spec Stage 2 clutch package, and used the TOB that they were at that time furnishing with the package. No problems so far, but that was probably around ten years ago, so should not be any basis for comparison to what might be available today. I would definitely send the PP to Bill to be trued-up prior to installing, if I were doing it today. I would ask Bill for a recommendation for a TOB, as it's a job you don't want to have to do more than once if at all possible.
I did take the new Spec extra-mass SMF and my original DMF to the House of Balance in Maryland, and found that the SMF was almost perfectly matched, out-of-the-box, to the old SMF. FWIW. I'd recommend you have your new stuff checked -- again, because this is a job you don't want to have to do twice.
Live well,
SJW
Some of YOUR posts are what I was using as research towards trans jacks . I figured I had a slightly different situation using the jack stands (less height throw but much less in the way) which is why I am asking... Thank you this is all solid advice and info. EDIT: I also do have an email into Bill with questions around the clutch/TO bearing among others...didn't want to bug him by phone...but if he doesn't respond in a week or so I'll give him another ring!
FWIW - my clutch chatter gets WORSE as it heats up, but I can modulate/be more aggressive with my clutch and can make it relatively non-existent but not in "soft" driving. I just don't want to continue to live with it this way (buddy took it for a spin and found it disconcerting ) and want to know WHY. No slippage I can detect at all...but I'm confident it is getting worse...not steady state or getting better...could be my driving technique although I have had a manual car from 0 miles -> 120k without touching the clutch. I also have a slight suspicion of perhaps contamination...will see!!!
Do any of the 'local' rental outlets have something available? Sunbelt here has quality lift for what seems reasonable $$$
*** Fabricating a 'cradle' for the ZF might make for a much better experience.
I'm sure that's possible...I just like the idea of not having any time pressure and being able to use it for other things in the future.... I will keep it in mind!
While I obviously can't make you any promises about this, I think you stand a fair chance of being able to roll the jack and trans out under the frame rails if you're able to get them 20" above the floor. The Kwiklift ramps are several inches thick, which means that, while the top of the ramp is nominally 20" above the floor, the clearance under them is probably somewhere in the range of 16" to 17". Depending on what you might or might not be planning to do while you're under there, it might not be as much of a hassle for you as it was for me to have the jack and trans trapped under the car if that turns out to be the case. I was doing new clutch, FW, pilot and TO bearings, shifter boot, tailshaft bushing and seal, slip yoke, cat-back exhaust, and probably a few other chores that I'm not recalling at this time.
With the symptoms you describe, I'll hazard a guess that you'll find the FW and PP will both have hotspots on them, which will likely lead you to replace both. While you have Bill's ear, I'd suggest you also inquire of him about the countershaft shimming procedure he developed that he reports will greatly reduce gear rattle that often occurs with a SMF. I can't advise about it, as he hadn't yet developed that trick when I did mine, so I have not tried it. I was fortunate that, with the extra-mass SMF, I ended up with almost no gear rattle.
Best of luck with your project. Keep us posted on how it's going, and holler if you need help.
Good to plan ahead. And good idea in your earlier post about tossing spare wheels and tires under the car as a fail-safe. I always do the same when working with only jack and jackstands. Seen too many horrific scenes when vehicles return to earth quickly and unexpectedly.
If you can't roll the trans and jack out from under the car, you could get the trans off of the jack, or try to roll it onto its side on the jack, but I will warn you that the ZF is one heavy beast. Around 145 pounds, IIRC. I wanted to leave it chained securely onto the jack, rather than trying to wrestle it around under the car since I work solo.
I am planning to pull my transmission from my 93 6spd with 46k miles. Primary goal being to eliminate/minimize a shudder I have going into 1st/reverse and generally "check out" the health of the clutch/flywheel/TO bearing etc... and go to a short throw shifter. (I've talked to Bill and he seemed to think the PP had been replaced by PO and was out of spec, but I have no idea if it's been touched). There is also a nice whir in neutral with clutch engaged (ie foot off of pedal) so I'll be doing the pilot bushing (with an oil impregnated fluted bronze bushing)... I replaced all hydraulics and the line last year. Will be installing beam plates, and have studied the forum/zfdoc for instructions/tricks.
I have never pulled the trans in this car before (but did do the exhaust on jack stands so at least that will come off easily). I am planning on using 6 ton jack stands with a 20-21" lift. I'm probably going to have to do the entire thing myself, so am looking at a trans jack...either a HF 450lbs scissor or 800lbs hydraulic. The scissor jack seems to be able to get an inch or so lower but has less adjustability. Those who have pulled their trans with this sort of height, will this work and which would be better (or something else)? Can I get the transmission low enough with a 20-21 inch lift from the jack stands? (honestly if I cannot get it out from under the car it's not the end of the world but it sure would be nice to for the room to work). I have a daytona low profile 3 ton jack (~20 inch lift), another cheapo jack, bottle jack, extra stands etc... Planning to use the 3 ton jack to manipulate the engine under pan. Anything else I should consider? Always makes me nervous working under the car so I'll have wheels or something else under there just in case...
If the TO bearing is aftermarket or otherwise bad OR I still have the DMF and it is not useable (requiring a SMF replacement)...I am strongly considering going to the RAM clutch setup... I'm just not sure I could trust any currently offered new TO bearings...? Is this crazy or ? I know it may be easier to just plop a cheapo bearing on there with a properly machined PP from zfdoc if the DMF is fine...BUT....should I just do this now anyway? Also, I am assuming I will need to get the ram flywheel match balanced to the DMF? Also would do the zfdoc shim if swapping...
I replaced the clutch on my car twice and I used my Quick Jacks and the low profile HF 450lb transmission jack.
The HF jack worked great for me under the car.
I did have problems sliding the transmission out from the back of the car because the shifter handle wouldn't clear the rear end housing or the rear emergency brake cable. I ended up rotating the transmission sideways so the shifter was clocked at the three (or nine) O'clock position. The transmission is heavy. It is not a fun job but it is doable on jack stands or the equivalent.
My recommendation is that if your DMF flywheel and throw out bearing are still good then keep it. Bill can give you some good advice overall. But if your dual mass flywheel is bad then just go with the RAM conversion setup. Use Bill's washer to reduce the gear rattle noise at idle (it does work pretty well).
I also purchased Bill's short throw shifter and beam plates. All great stuff.
I had no luck with his pressure plate that he machined nor the stock organic disk I purchased from him.
Unfortunately for me I had clutch slippage right after I installed it. It never got any better.
The whole job needed to be redone again so this time I contacted Mike Norcia at RAM and told him my setup. He recommended the 900 series sintered iron disk and billet steel clutch (90-0810NS).
The organic 300 series RAM clutch that you listed will have a smoother engagement and is good for a stock type motor (closest to a stock setup).
The 900 series which I went with has a very aggressive bite. It does chatter during engagement when accelerating from a slow start. Raise the rpms and it smooths out.
Overall the shifts are buttery smooth, but lugging the car is noisier than when my car was stock.
Unfortunately - I've done more than one ZF R&R,and I like to think I've learned a few things...
Getting the "C" Beam off is a real PITA. What I learned was that if you put a jack under the diff, and pull the two bolts that hold the batwing in place - you can then lower the whole diff, which will help get the ":C" Beam off & out.
Getting the shifter to clear the shifter hole in the Body is also a challenge - you need to let the engine lean WAY back. I've had the motor touching the firewall, and still had problems getting the trans at enough of an angle to get it to clear the clutch disc and the bellhousing.
Yes - the ZF is heavy - and there is nothing flat at the bottom (and the drain plug is the lowest thing on the ZF). I've done the job with a floor jack and a piece of plywood on the floor jack - but a low trans jack is the better way to go.... Use a ratchet strap around the trans and jack to help hold it.
If you have a problem getting the bellhousing off after the trans is out - it's not an uncommon thing. In some cases the clutch disc is so worn, that the clutch release lever becomes problematic. If that is the case - there is a ball stud that is screwed into the bellousing. There is an allen head recess (12mm ???) in the ball stud. If necessary - you can unscrew that ball stud from the outside of the bellhousing - just remember - that you are working "backward" so make sure you turn the stud the correct direction to unscrew it.....
And while it may seem crazy - I had the shift **** give me headaches the first time I did the job. To remove it - pop the plastic cap off the top of the shifter - and you'll see a aluminum rectangle, that needs to get pulled up and out to allow the shift **** to unscrew. Sometimes small vice rips are enough to get it - other times it's too far down, and you may need to drill and tap a hole in that aluminum "pin" - and then thread a screw into it to get the ability to pull it up.
One last tip. When reinstalling the ZF - if you get it close - but it just won't go in that last 3/4" of so - with a couple of bolts holding the trans "in place" (read that as keeping it from moving backwards) - and with the trans jack still in place - you can try to press the clutch pedal a bit to take a bit of the pressure plate pressure off the disc- that will allow the disc to move ever so slightly, which can make the difference when your clutch disc alingment is off a few thousandths...
I will say - having a mechanically competent friend around for the removal and the reinstall is also helpfull !!!
I've yet to do the C4, but have done many many trans' on jack stands and it ain't that bad. In my old F-bod's I could have the trans out and on the bench in 20 minutes (From the time it was situated on jack stands). The worst trans I ever did on jack stands was a G56 in a Dodge Ram 2500. 225 lbs, plus the DM flywheel and clutch that come out w/the trans. I lowered that down and out w/a typical floor jack and THAT was sketchy. That is a trans I wouldn't pull again w/o a 2 post and a trans jack.
The ZF6 is ~145 lbs, so care is certainly required dropping it out....Bench pressing it out and back in could be problematic. I plan on using a typical floor jack when I do mine. Once it's down all the way, I will do what I typically do; roll it off the jack and then slide out out from under the car on a piece of card board or something like that.
...
With the symptoms you describe, I'll hazard a guess that you'll find the FW and PP will both have hotspots on them, which will likely lead you to replace both. While you have Bill's ear, I'd suggest you also inquire of him about the countershaft shimming procedure he developed that he reports will greatly reduce gear rattle that often occurs with a SMF....
Yes, I am betting some hot spots/glaze, you can literally feel it grab/slip/grab/slip backing out of the garage if you just idle it etc...that's also why I wonder about contamination (but it doesn't slip at all under heavy use/flooring it in 5th gear to test etc...). Yes I plan on putting the shims in.
Originally Posted by grandspt
I replaced the clutch on my car twice and I used my Quick Jacks and the low profile HF 450lb transmission jack.
The HF jack worked great for me under the car.
I did have problems sliding the transmission out from the back of the car because the shifter handle wouldn't clear the rear end housing or the rear emergency brake cable. I ended up rotating the transmission sideways so the shifter was clocked at the three (or nine) O'clock position. The transmission is heavy. It is not a fun job but it is doable on jack stands or the equivalent.
My recommendation is that if your DMF flywheel and throw out bearing are still good then keep it. Bill can give you some good advice overall. But if your dual mass flywheel is bad then just go with the RAM conversion setup. Use Bill's washer to reduce the gear rattle noise at idle (it does work pretty well).
I also purchased Bill's short throw shifter and beam plates. All great stuff.
I had no luck with his pressure plate that he machined nor the stock organic disk I purchased from him.
Unfortunately for me I had clutch slippage right after I installed it. It never got any better.
The whole job needed to be redone again so this time I contacted Mike Norcia at RAM and told him my setup. He recommended the 900 series sintered iron disk and billet steel clutch (90-0810NS).
The organic 300 series RAM clutch that you listed will have a smoother engagement and is good for a stock type motor (closest to a stock setup).
The 900 series which I went with has a very aggressive bite. It does chatter during engagement when accelerating from a slow start. Raise the rpms and it smooths out.
Overall the shifts are buttery smooth, but lugging the car is noisier than when my car was stock.
Thank you VERY much! This is super helpful and confirms a lot of my thoughts on approach. Yes I am going with Bill's short shifter mod and shim
Originally Posted by Purple92
...
If you have a problem getting the bellhousing off after the trans is out - it's not an uncommon thing. In some cases the clutch disc is so worn, that the clutch release lever becomes problematic. If that is the case - there is a ball stud that is screwed into the bellousing. There is an allen head recess (12mm ???) in the ball stud. If necessary - you can unscrew that ball stud from the outside of the bellhousing - just remember - that you are working "backward" so make sure you turn the stud the correct direction to unscrew it.....
And while it may seem crazy - I had the shift **** give me headaches the first time I did the job. To remove it - pop the plastic cap off the top of the shifter - and you'll see a aluminum rectangle, that needs to get pulled up and out to allow the shift **** to unscrew. Sometimes small vice rips are enough to get it - other times it's too far down, and you may need to drill and tap a hole in that aluminum "pin" - and then thread a screw into it to get the ability to pull it up.
One last tip. When reinstalling the ZF - if you get it close - but it just won't go in that last 3/4" of so - with a couple of bolts holding the trans "in place" (read that as keeping it from moving backwards) - and with the trans jack still in place - you can try to press the clutch pedal a bit to take a bit of the pressure plate pressure off the disc- that will allow the disc to move ever so slightly, which can make the difference when your clutch disc alingment is off a few thousandths...
I will say - having a mechanically competent friend around for the removal and the reinstall is also helpfull !!!
HAVE FUN !!!!
ZFDoc's site/instructions had some of that great info on the ball stud and the trick with the vice grips + a screwdriver to pull the shifter wedge. Hopefully I don't need to drill and tap but if so, so be it and good idea. Unfortunately I do not have mechanically inclined friends, but I am sure someone would assist with manipulating the trans if I get stuck. Maybe I am a masochist, but a lot of this *is* fun for me, although the frustrating parts are always that "one bolt" that gives you hell and makes it take 5x as long as it should have to complete!
I am planning to pull my transmission from my 93 6spd with 46k miles. Primary goal being to eliminate/minimize a shudder I have going into 1st/reverse ... I replaced all hydraulics and the line last year. Will be installing beam plates, and have studied the forum/zfdoc for instructions/tricks.
Interesting; I most often think that the difficulty getting it into first or reverse was related to the hydraulics either worn (ribs on surface of seals inside of the actual OEM cylinders worn) or air/contaminants in the system. What are the details with regarding how the issue developed, and the timing of the replacements, what sorts of parts were used, etc. if you don't mind sharing please.
Interesting; I most often think that the difficulty getting it into first or reverse was related to the hydraulics either worn (ribs on surface of seals inside of the actual OEM cylinders worn) or air/contaminants in the system. What are the details with regarding how the issue developed, and the timing of the replacements, what sorts of parts were used, etc. if you don't mind sharing please.
Apologies, poor wording. No problems shifting or getting it into gear at all. From a stop shudder occurs letting clutch out as clutch starts to grab.
The hydraulics were replaced last year because the master was leaking into the footwell. I discovered this after I bought it. It had already developed a shudder prior to hydraulic replacement (No change and it’s progressively gotten worse). I used LUK master/slave and zip corvette replacement line.
Not sure if any one mentioned, but it is required that you remove the trans first with the bellhousing still on the motor. Once the trans is out, then you can take the bellhousing off.
Lots of good input here. Having done this myself using just jackstands and a floor jack for the transmission (not even a trans jack), it is possible. I think you'll need to slide the transmission off the jack and maybe onto a piece of cardboard or thin plywood before you can get it out from under the car. It was all pretty straightforward for me, but I think I had my son helping me by operating the jack while I pull the transmission off the bellhousing. You have get the correct angle for it to happily slide out, and doing that all yourself would take forever*. BTW, when you let the engine lean back to do this part, make sure your oil pressure sensor at the top rear of the motor doesn't hit the firewall.
I don't think hot spots are your problem. I think one thing you most likely have is some form of misalignment between the trans and flywheel: either the trans is at a slight angle or it is off center. That's where the whirring noise is coming from at idle/neutral with the clutch engaged. Your chatter in 1st and reverse are very possible caused by the same thing, and/or the pressure plate isn't even (that's what Bill fixes).
I think you're unlikely to find an OE INA-branded bearing at any price, but if you do then that's what you need to use. Anything new is made in China, regardless of brand. That alone would be enough to make me consider that RAM push-type conversion kit. OTOH, if you pull it and by some miracle the OE bearing is still in there, make sure it's still good (maybe as Bill to take a look) and reuse it. Even better if the pressure plate is usable: I would definitely have Bill true it up unless you are sure it's an OE piece. I wouldn't reuse the DM flywheel if that's still in there, because they eventually can have issues (they do have moving parts, after all, and there's a procedure in the FSM to inspect them for failure of those parts). But for a street-only car where speed doesn't matter, it's probably good to use a heavier single-mass flywheel (~30lb) instead of a light aluminum one (~13lbs). I would do the shim kit for the countershaft to reduce rattle. For a stock engine, I would use an organic disk. Anything else will be less street friendly.
*Unless there's a fancy-*** remote-controlled trans jack out there, but you won't have that/
... I think one thing you most likely have is some form of misalignment between the trans and flywheel: either the trans is at a slight angle or it is off center. That's where the whirring noise is coming from at idle/neutral with the clutch engaged. ...
I have read some about that as a potential cause. Would that mean I need to consider my input shaft bearing compromised if so? Is checking for lateral play enough to verify? Is it possible to DIY the input shaft bearing? Regardless I will do the pilot bearing.
EDIT: Didn't expect this thread to take a diagnostic route , but thank you everyone. FWIW, you can hear the whir I am talking about in this vid in between small blips. Car not warmed up so did not rev...testing out the new exhaust early this year. Apologies I appear to have deleted the orig so the quality is low (emailed):
I have read some about that as a potential cause. Would that mean I need to consider my input shaft bearing compromised if so? Is checking for lateral play enough to verify? Is it possible to DIY the input shaft bearing? Regardless I will do the pilot bearing.
I think whether that bearing is shot or not will depend on how much running was done in this condition. I don't know how to inspect it or how hard it is to replace. I wish I could tell you. ZF Doc knows, and I would send him the same clip. I definitely would agree with replacing the pilot bearing with the fluted bronze oilite one. It's cheap and easy to do while you have the transmission out.
EDIT: Didn't expect this thread to take a diagnostic route , but thank you everyone. FWIW, you can hear the whir I am talking about in this vid in between small blips.
Yeah, I do think this likely caused by the misalignment issue we're discussing.
I think whether that bearing is shot or not will depend on how much running was done in this condition. I don't know how to inspect it or how hard it is to replace. I wish I could tell you. ZF Doc knows, and I would send him the same clip. I definitely would agree with replacing the pilot bearing with the fluted bronze oilite one. It's cheap and easy to do while you have the transmission ...
When I described my shudder symptoms to Bill earlier this year he seemed to think it would not harm things and was the PP...and that I should tear it apart at some point but not urgent. I called because I was concerned about hurting something. However we jumped straight into PP, short shift etc and I thought at the time the whir based on searches was TO/pilot bushing or even normal and I’d look at it once pulled apart..I’m not sure if I brought it up. In my email to him a few days ago I mentioned the whir and will see what he says.
Planning ZF6 removal
. I figured I had a slightly different situation using the jack stands (less height throw but much less in the way) which is why I am asking... Thank you this is all solid advice and info. EDIT: I also do have an email into Bill with questions around the clutch/TO bearing among others...didn't want to bug him by phone...but if he doesn't respond in a week or so I'll give him another ring!
