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Thank you and you bring up a good point. Being so close to the problem I didn't look hard enough. The fuel assembly for sure is original, the metal is aged and I can see rust in spots, what was actually changed out is a good question. I will run the road test tomorrow and get a pressure reading. If I am going to do the assembly for $18 I will replace the filter as well. If the Opti fix dictates the level of work done here I think the best I can expect is the sock was maybe cleaned and reinstalled. The 30+ year old components are probably original. The pressure test should tell the story. Just so I understand if it is any lower pressure wise from the idle to 3500ish rpm range I have a restriction some place in the system or do I need to hit the 46psi like when I take off the vacuum line on the FPR?
to be honest i dont know precise exact expected fuel pressures. but it shouldn’t drop off as you ramp up rpm, the electric pump should keep up. it should be quite noticeable.
^^^this dude is an encyclopedia when it comes to these cars
That clutch switch is just one more thing that can leave you stranded keep it bypassed
WVZR1 IS!! He has these PARTS catalogs PLUS service manuals on PDF. The parts catalog is for every Corvette made .It has Diagrams and all the part numbers Extremely well organized.Ask him
Owning a 93 since new the item i see of most importance is a dry climate controlled indoor storage or just being indoors helps. These cars are not like the German cars built to live out side with there electrical contacts immersed in electrical lube and hard ware to with stand the elements.It all boils down to quality components built in house and not placed for outside bid to satisfy the stock holders. This is why Tesla is such a success!
I was able to run my test today. Fuel Pressure gauge taped on the windshield. Looked kind of cool, old school tach placement. Anyway, the car up to temp, the idle pressure was 36 psi like before, car not in gear rev'd up to 5000 rpm the pressure moved slightly up to 42psi. The real test was in gear and starting at 4000rpm the pressure dropped to the mid 20's. 1000 - trying to get to 5000 rpm foot to the floor pull and the pressure shot down to 5 psi, let off the gas is would come back up. Just to confirm this sounds like a fuel pump assembly failure? I will also to the filter change because that would be silly not to. I am debating about the injectors just because I am working on the fuel system. What is the general consensus? Worn out fuel assembly?
Glad you are able to see specific results from the test, that's a good start. Others may be able to pinpoint the issue closer. But your results make me reaffirm my earlier thoughts -
if it were my car, and it had been sitting 7 years, I would replace the fuel filter, the pump and the sock, and the gas, cleaning the tank in the process, just as a "good idea" regardless.
I was able to run my test today. Fuel Pressure gauge taped on the windshield. Looked kind of cool, old school tach placement. Anyway, the car up to temp, the idle pressure was 36 psi like before, car not in gear rev'd up to 5000 rpm the pressure moved slightly up to 42psi. The real test was in gear and starting at 4000rpm the pressure dropped to the mid 20's. 1000 - trying to get to 5000 rpm foot to the floor pull and the pressure shot down to 5 psi, let off the gas is would come back up. Just to confirm this sounds like a fuel pump assembly failure? I will also to the filter change because that would be silly not to. I am debating about the injectors just because I am working on the fuel system. What is the general consensus? Worn out fuel assembly?
Thank you
it is possible to get even more granular (ive heard of fuel socks collapsing under draw) with your diagnosis, but, id say as other members have said, just replace the whole assembly, plus the filter.
My Corvette adventure continued tonight. I got some free time to pull the pump. Overall not bad, but what I found was amazing. It is a shock the pump was able to draw as much fuel as it did. The PO said they replaced the pump, maybe? The filter sock was destroyed, the fine mesh screen on the pump was packed solid with black crud, maybe the pump filter, maybe pump filter with other stuff. Anyway I am going to change the fuel line filter tomorrow because who knows what passed past the pump. After that with any luck I will give the car a test run on Sunday.
good job on the diagnosis leading you to the failure. personally , after seeing that, i would also flush the line from the tank to the filter.
id probably run a whole can of carb cleaner through it in a few different applications giving it a bit of a soak between.
u could blow it out with air hose too to see if you have chunks. perhaps fastening a white sheet of paper or white rag over the end that catches the blow off for viewing
I snuck in the time tonight and I did the fuel line filter and the rebuilt Bosch 3 injectors. Pressure tested for leaks after I was done, did three cycles no smells or leaks. She fired right off. The car wants to run despite these little setbacks, I know she will get there. Thank you everyone for the help when I need it.
Hello All, Happy Friday! I got my transmission out and its going off to Arizona to get some tender loving care. I am sure it will come back in perfect order. While I have some free time and a bit of curiosity I striped everything down to the flywheel to see what condition that was all in. These are the pictures. I see that the car was converted from the dual mass flywheel. I don't see any identifying marks to see what brand this is, any ideas? This is also the clutch and throwout bearing. There are little markings to identify these, the clutch is marked PHT D1063 and the pressure plate is marked C70043. Any opinions on the wear of the fly wheel would be helpful. It looks like there are a few hot spots and the clutch has that ring mid way in the friction zones. The best I can guess is there is about 5000 miles on the clutch from the amount of miles the second owner added. That doesn't mean all that much I have no idea how they drove and being the trans needs work I kind of think not well anyway I digress, thanks for the help!
Arizona, instead of D&L Transmission on Long Island? Larry has a great reputation on the C-2 Muncies, not sure if he does newer ones or not. I was happy with what he did with mine.
It should stay pretty steady through the power band at WOT.
Like you, I wondered how the car was able to run at all. My guess is you will see a huge difference. 
