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85s only run about 30-32 degrees spark advance at high load, but this may be a bit much depending upon the actual boost, fuel, compression and charge air temperature. If you're not tuning yet or running some sort of boost retard module, might be a good idea to retard the base timing something like 2-4 degrees in order to provide some cheap insurance. I don't trust Procharger's recommendation of running full timing (even with an intercooler).
I agree, I broke a piston myself when I adjusted the car on the street.
The original pistons do not withstand any knocking. Although I already had a water/methanol injection in use then.
At the time, I also had the original ECM, which was adjusted with Tuner Pro. I don't know exactly when the piston broke, but at some point the engine started knocking.
I drove / tuned the car after installing the Procharger for about 200 miles until the piston broke.
Last winter I did an engine rebuild and installed forced pistons.
Now I'm doing a ZF swap and a Dana 44 swap and installing a Megasquirt to control the ignition and fuel delivery.
Thank guys, I'm looking into Dynamic EFI route with the EBL Flash-II ECM . I emailed Bob on it and he recommended with a Procharger using a 2-bar MAP sensor. This will allow the EBl Flash-II ECM to be boost aware.
Couple of challenges would be not running the stock ECM any longer and hoping I don't run into a smart smog guy that knows the 85 Vette didn't come stock with a MAP. Not really a big issue just need more info before going this route.
Also there is a tuner not to far away from me that I will be calling as well.
Wasn't going to get into that part until I got close to completing the build cuz honesty there is a lot of learning on my part for the Dynamic EFI route Would be kinda cool to be able to tune my own car.
How did I not know their was a kit for an 85 out there. I thought all of them had been discontinued. I'll have to check this out too!
I love my dynamic EFI set-up and Bob is great to work with. He's super helpful. If the visible map sensor is of concern you could easily hide it and the car would still look stock. Run the wires through the stock wire harness and T off the vacuum line behind the distributor that goes to the AFPR. I'm with the others, I wouldn't run a SC on an 85 on the stock ECU even with the procharger equipment. Our computer is SUPER slow to update to parameters changes so you'd have to be a lot more conservative in the tune. The 86+ computer is much more responsive.
How did I not know their was a kit for an 85 out there. I thought all of them had been discontinued. I'll have to check this out too!
I love my dynamic EFI set-up and Bob is great to work with. He's super helpful. If the visible map sensor is of concern you could easily hide it and the car would still look stock. Run the wires through the stock wire harness and T off the vacuum line behind the distributor that goes to the AFPR. I'm with the others, I wouldn't run a SC on an 85 on the stock ECU even with the procharger equipment. Our computer is SUPER slow to update to parameters changes so you'd have to be a lot more conservative in the tune. The 86+ computer is much more responsive.
Tuned in to this for sure!
They are still available for our vettes. I paid the price for mine due to living in California and having to go with the 50 state legal kit. The SC being polished didn't help on the price either. If you don't live in Cali its much cheaper.
Yeah, I was thinking on hiding the MAP as well.
So quick question since your running the dynamic EFI set-up with a different ECM are your guages all working? What ECM did you go with?
I got the EBL Flash-II system. It requires some rewiring of the computer harness for us 85 owners (direct swap for 86+). Super easy to do. More than happy to post the directions Bob gave me.
I created a thread trying to document the swap best I could. Bit of a read but may help you out.
I got the EBL Flash-II system. It requires some rewiring of the computer harness for us 85 owners (direct swap for 86+). Super easy to do. More than happy to post the directions Bob gave me.
I created a thread trying to document the swap best I could. Bit of a read but may help you out.
Bob actually sent me all that info. It doesn't look that hard. The man is pretty informative for sure. When he first reply back to me the information seem a little overwhelming at 1st but that was because I had other things in the fire and didn't give it much time to go over. I later looked at the information he sent and website and I knew this could be something I could get away with in California. Smog guy don't plug anything in the OBD1 plug when it gets smog so they would not know if would have a different ECM.
Thx for thread you started on it. I will look at it when I have a full day just to read.LOL Damn there is a lot going on with that thread..LOL
As far as the MAP sensor my goal would be to make it look like it came from the factory stock or I'll hide it.
It broke near the top of third gear around the 1/8 mile at about 92 mph. The dipstick popped and created a big smoke show, but at least it didn't oil down the track. You can see the O2 drop just after the failure before the throttle was lifted. Power was down considerably in 4th gear, but still trapped around 115 mph.
Unfortunately, this failure was self-induced. While experimenting, I had botched the indexing into the main spark table and (unknowingly at the time) ended up with about 36 degrees advance which was much more than intended. Just to reiterate: be careful with the timing.
Man I forgot to post up on this thread. Things were going slow however , I manage to strip the motor and slowly building it back up.
After that I replaced the crank seal since I was there and it's good insurance. Ended up replacing the harmonic balencer since my orginal was starting to show crack rubber. Then install the high flow water pump.
I also repolished my valve covers cuz 1 of them had some imperfections I didn't like.
Today I was fighting with the manifold trying to get the old gasket material left on the intake manifold. Ended up pulling the fuel rails to get in there. I did get the runners on and torque down.
And to satisfy my curiosity I had to see what the plenum and valve cover look like to end my day with a smile. Will be installing them tomorrow.
I have a new Doctor who was straight up with me. He dealt with people with my level of surgery and pain management. Pretty much told me that I should have overcome all the issues that I'm still experiencing early on after surgery. He recommended more physical therapy but I opted not to do it. I'm kinda tired of PT and I decided to just get back into working out like I did before my back started going down hill. .
Currently working on exercising, cardio and pushing iron 5 days a week. Its challenging, it hurts and I"m pretty much done for the day after I complete a 2-3 hour workout. It's only temporary till my muscles and back gets use to the routine. So that is what I have decided to do to improve my back and functionality. Feels like old times again.
Unfortunately, I'm down to the weekends working the vette. I'm able to substain more than a few hours easy now when working on the vette. Seems like things are starting to get easier and that I'm grateful for.
My goal on the vette for now is to get everything back on and fire it up so I can check for leaks. Next will be working on getting the radiator in, alternator, smog, belts etc,, to get her fired up.
We are officially done with the top end. The heat has slowed me down. Last 10 days has been brutal. Reach 111 degrees at one point, but basically over 100 degrees.
Next goal is to get the radiator installed as well as the smog pump and alternator. I want to do a fire up before I actually start on the Procharger, so I can ckeck for leaks. Beside I need to check fuel pressure because I replaced the bolt in the adjustable FPR. Why, don't ask..LOL
No, I hadn't thought on it yet. My understanding on the catch can is a line running into the pvc line.
Don't know if I would pass a visual smog test with a line from the pcv valve running into a catch can. I'll be looking into to it after the procharger install.
I can always remove it before smoging it, I guess.
Well, I'm getting closer to a pre-start on the vette to check for leaks or issues with the current mods I have done. Coming along very nicely.
Radiator is in. What a pain in the *** that was to fit it in the stock location. Fought me all the way.
All the vital components are on the vette.
Can't wait to get rid of the current alternator and smog pump. Smog pump I'll get to throw as far as I can and I have a real nice alternator replacement.
So I'm down to a installing the belt and top coolant hose. Add coolant, power streeging fluid and I'll be ready to fire it up.
If all goes well then finally l'll be working on putting in the supercharger kit. Been a longtime coming, but projects start off simple, but seem to get added stuff along the way. LOL
An added bonus to keep it in the aluminum theme with a aluminum coolant tank.
Great...first start is always exciting. I got mine started yesterday and drove a short distance.
Good deal. At least you got to drive yours.
I wanted to drive mine but I was afraid to take it off the jack stands because if I did it might be awhile before I put it back up..LOL
It made me work for that 1st start. Wouldn't start initially.
Then I lost fuel pressure all together. Turned out I had 2 issues. First one was the brass vacuum fitting on my BBK adjustable fuel pressure regulator pop out of the socket. Probably my fault over the years working around that tight area. Second issues the fuel pump fuse blew..
After I addressed those issues she fire right up. Adjusted the fuel pressure and call it a day. Now I get to start pulling parts off again. Won't be as critical as when I first started.
85s only run about 30-32 degrees spark advance at high load, but this may be a bit much depending upon the actual boost, fuel, compression and charge air temperature. If you're not tuning yet or running some sort of boost retard module, might be a good idea to retard the base timing something like 2-4 degrees in order to provide some cheap insurance. I don't trust Procharger's recommendation of running full timing (even with an intercooler).
Hey thanks for the impute on this tequilaboy. I don't know how I missed your post. Sorry about that.
After looking at all my options I decided to go with the MSD Boost Timing Master with the retard dial. It's 50 state legal which is a no-brainer living in Cali. I think I would be able to figure out where to retard the BTM easier versus learning or working with software like tunerpro or Dynamic EFI or anything else in those lines. Bob over at Dynamic sent me info on the set up and I was just overwhelm after that. I hear nothing but good things about this setup though and could go with that later. Right now I just want to keep it simple. Ed
I PM'ed my cell to you-for full details on dealing with cali smog I'd rather cover it that way. I have a super ram intake on mine along with a lot more. As you ad visible parts make sure they all have eo numbers. Then go to the carb website and print out the eo's straight from carb. Take that pile of paper with you when you have to smog it. Some smog shops won't want to even look at it, so you may have to shop around for a shop that is willing to test it. They will input all the eo's when they test it. As for a cam I found if you stick to about a 222/228 on a 114lsa you won't have any "lope" If they can hear a lope they probably will tell you to go away.. It is a learning curve to run the ebl-but even with a lot of mods you can make it run strong and very clean for the tailpipe dyno test.
With the intercooler in front of the radiator you won't be able to run the AC on hot days as it'll more than likely overheat. I found a procharger IC that will go where the air filter was, so working on fitting that in there. Carb site just specifies IC with the p600b-so if you have the correct name on the IC it's good. Be prepared-once you start down the SC modified road it just grows lol!
