C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Supercharged l98 Questions

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Old Jun 7, 2024 | 06:41 PM
  #21  
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Another option is to convert to map from maf-dynamicefi has the ebl flash 2, (a "piggyback" to the ecm) with corvette tpi it would need a few pins moved along with the flash 2 into the ecm. If the shop you found is familiar with it and willing to work with it you'd be ahead. You leave the maf with wires in place, so that way you still pass visual on smog and the ebl runs all smog functions.As for the ecm it's up under the dash-so still pass visual.
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 05:45 PM
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Further update: I didn’t mention this previously but the car does have a check engine light for the IAT/ when I pulled the plenum off and it was disconnected and I for the life of me could not find the connector/ any ideas on this would be really appreciated.

The car also was running very lean on startup, as bad as 17:1 so I shut the car off.

Could these two issues be explained from the IAT?
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 10:03 PM
  #23  
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After looking around the car I found this red flag

I found a blow through blow off valve installed from the surge port before the intercooler but after the blow off valve the tube is cut off and goes nowhere, is this supposed to be plumbed back into the intake track or should the BOV go directly on this surge valve?

will this cause a lean condition as this is a port for extra air?

I will also be ordering the MSD BTM tommorow as suggested from you guys earlier.

I really appreciate all the help



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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 10:51 PM
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What I did and other people do is put a filter on the end of the proflow and yes its suppose to flow into the atmospheres.

The K&N filter part # is RU-0160. You could probably stick any 1 ½ inch filter on it however, K&N is what Procharger recommends and I always use K&N for all my filter needs.


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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by corvted
What I did and other people do is put a filter on the end of the proflow and yes its suppose to flow into the atmospheres.

The K&N filter part # is RU-0160. You could probably stick any 1 ½ inch filter on it however, K&N is what Procharger recommends and I always use K&N for all my filter needs.
then I retract my statement of it being a red flag, thank you!!

Now I need to figure out the lean condition as I’ve only seen others have problems with a rich condition while running an FMU.
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Clarkerusty
Further update: I didn’t mention this previously but the car does have a check engine light for the IAT/ when I pulled the plenum off and it was disconnected and I for the life of me could not find the connector/ any ideas on this would be really appreciated.

The car also was running very lean on startup, as bad as 17:1 so I shut the car off.

Could these two issues be explained from the IAT?
The lean afr-is that from a wide band? The iac unplugged should not make it go lean like that. The connector is under the plenum. Was it lean before? Or only after you had the plenum off?
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by drive it
The lean afr-is that from a wide band? The iac unplugged should not make it go lean like that. The connector is under the plenum. Was it lean before? Or only after you had the plenum off?
Yes, that reading is from the Wide band I have installed.

I had the fixed the Wideband sensor yesterday so I can’t say for sure if it has always been running lean but I am confident it has been lean before I removed the plenum.

the sensor hasn’t been plugged in and I’m struggling to find the connector anywhere, even under the plenum so I’m starting to think it was tucked beneath the distributor or in that area, I need to take the cap off to take a look.
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 11:37 PM
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Here is a pic of how I have it set up..Yes, lean condition not good. I'm surprised that the BTM, fuel and boost gauge was not done prior to completing the install. Maybe it was part of the tune if the vette was tuned the tuner would have all the info. I still would have a boost and fuel pressure gauge regardless.

Nevertheless, at least you’re reaching out for help. "Drive It" is a good source of info too as well as the other guru's that posted. They know their ****. . Damn it I still owe "drive it" a dinner. I'll get down there sometime Pete..LOL Will have to be in about 3 months though. Finally going into surgery tomorrow. .

Anyway, I hope you get it done right.

MSD also has the programable version of the BTM you might want to look at if you’re not into the simple BTM where you have a dial to set the amount of timing retard per boost. You'll have to run their MSD MAP sensor but you can program it with their software and a laptop which is the route I'm going for. I just don't want another switch/dial on the console which is the only reason. I believe it’s the MSD Digital Programmable 6AL-2 (50 State legal). But double check they have new stuff out nowadays hard for me to keep up sometimes..

Last edited by corvted; Jun 11, 2024 at 05:04 PM.
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Old Jun 10, 2024 | 10:39 AM
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Hey Ed, don't worry about a dinner-just take care of yourself first!
OP-that lean is not safe...that's way leaner than hwy mode even. If you have to drive it baby it along. I'd hate to see you lift the top off a piston. I would double check the grounds on the wide band as a bad ground can throw it off. You really need to get a scan tool on it to see what blm/int etc. is doing.
Have you checked the fuel pressure yet? If the pump is failing and pressure dropping that could certainly make it that lean.

Last edited by drive it; Jun 10, 2024 at 10:46 AM.
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Old Jun 10, 2024 | 12:08 PM
  #30  
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Absolutely, Once I noticed the engine that lean I parked it and I am not going to run it until my fuel pressure gauge arrives tomorrow.
Once I get the gauge installed I will have a better idea but I will take a look at the wide band ground to see if that may be throwing it off.
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Old Jun 10, 2024 | 01:33 PM
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One other thing I had discovered on this setup, I found the original Pulley for the P600B in the back storage which led me to compare it to the one that the car currently has.

It currently has a purple pulley and it is a bit bigger than than the factory black pulley and looking into the paperwork the previous owner had written down that this pulley was for 10PSI.

As I am more interested in having a properly running car over a bit extra power, would it be ideal to throw on the original pulley and then "tune it" with the FMU and MSD BTM or would leaving the larger pulley on be a negligible difference in terms of fueling?

Thanks to all of you I am starting to have a better understanding of how this forced induction setup should be and I am extremely grateful for all the input.
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Old Jun 10, 2024 | 04:05 PM
  #32  
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What diameter do you have on the pulleys?
I now have a 3.3" with which I get 8.5PSI boost and that is already a lot for my engine with forced pistons, stock rods and stock crank.
I have 3.0" and 2.6" pulleys, but I don't dare to try them...
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Old Jun 10, 2024 | 04:07 PM
  #33  
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I will take a look at this shortly, I want to say it is a 2.85 or 2.8
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Old Jun 10, 2024 | 05:04 PM
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The smaller the pulley the more boost you get. Need to check on the build-if it's not forged pistons lower the boost.
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Old Jun 11, 2024 | 04:07 PM
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Thank you, I'm going to be more than happy with the current setup and I have no desire to crank up boost at the moment.

I will be installing my fuel pressure and Boost gauges today as well as checking the timing to make sure it is at the factory setting. I have also found the IAT connector( it was stuffed down towards the bell housing) so I will be getting that reconnected today and then determine what is causing the lean condition.

My MSD BTM should be in this Friday so I'm hoping to get that installed this weekend so I can get this think tinkered with and running as ideally as possible.
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Old Jun 11, 2024 | 05:13 PM
  #36  
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Also what target air to fuel ratio are you guys aiming for?
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Old Jun 11, 2024 | 08:52 PM
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Closed loop should be stioch 14.7:1. PE (power enrich) I go 12.5 and under boost 11.5
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Old Jun 12, 2024 | 11:27 AM
  #38  
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Awesome thank you, I installed the fuel pressure gauge yesterday but I must be missing a bezel or nipple for the schrader valve as the gauge does not move with the key on or with the engine running.

I also connected the IAT sensor which fixed my code 24 and got my boost gauge hooked up and I learned that I have a code 34, I have an exam coming up so I'm not going to be able to work on the car until Saturday but I will also be inspecting the MAF wires and replacing the MAF burnoff relay.

Another thing I noted is that the lean condition is only at idle now, I adjusted the FMU a bit and on cold start the air to fuel ratio is in the 16:1 to the 17:1 range but when given throttle it drops down to the 13:5 area in the 2,000 RPM range
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Old Jun 12, 2024 | 01:07 PM
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You need to scan it and see what the blms and int are doing.
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Old Jun 12, 2024 | 01:19 PM
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Absolutely, I have the cable that plugs into the OBD1 port which I kept from my 1992/ is there a specific software that you recommend?
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