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Well, it's time. Misfires have become more common, especially when the car gets hot, so it's time to do the job.
What does everyone like for aftermarket Optis? Searching here has shown:
Petris (out of stock)
Optispark Solutions on eBay (no longer active)
MSD
Is MSD the current standard?
While I'm in there, I'm also doing:
- Water pump (FlowKooler 1691)
- Gaskets
- Plugs (NGK TR55)
- Wires (Taylor 409 10.4mm) Side note: I understand larger wires won't fit the brackets. I've read that people take a dremel to it. Is there enough meat on then to dremel out for this size wire? Any good aftermarket options for larker brackets?
Does MSD make the actual unit? I thought they only made the cap and rotor. Are you sure it's your opti? The issue with the opti is the optical sensor on the trigger wheel. Humidity/debris gets in the way and you drop one of the signals. Only real way to tell (that I know of) is scope it to see the output.
Another is optidoctor (who I think you can find on ebay).
Another option is dropping some coin, ditching the opti all together and going to a torqhead setup: TORQHEAD LTD - HOME
If you do just switch out opti's, make sure to replace the drive seal on the timing cover. Change both this seal and the front main if you feel like pulling the balancer pulley. PITA and I believe you have to pull the rack to do it, but since you've already pulled the rest of the stuff out of the way, may be time.
Does MSD make the actual unit? I thought they only made the cap and rotor. Are you sure it's your opti? The issue with the opti is the optical sensor on the trigger wheel. Humidity/debris gets in the way and you drop one of the signals. Only real way to tell (that I know of) is scope it to see the output.
Another is optidoctor (who I think you can find on ebay).
Another option is dropping some coin, ditching the opti all together and going to a torqhead setup: TORQHEAD LTD - HOME
If you do just switch out opti's, make sure to replace the drive seal on the timing cover. Change both this seal and the front main if you feel like pulling the balancer pulley. PITA and I believe you have to pull the rack to do it, but since you've already pulled the rest of the stuff out of the way, may be time.
The car runs great until it gets hot. After driving for an hour or so, it starts to act up. It wants to fall over itself when you try to accelerate, and surges badly at idle.
But I do like the price of that SAC unit compared to the MSD! Holy smokes. I also believe that optidoctor on eBay is Optispark Solutions and from what I read here is that he's out of the game. I looked at Torqhead and considered it, but that's when I was thinking MSD prices. That was one of the first units to pop up in a search, and I thought that was the going rate for the optispark.
So my mechanic told me that it's likely the optispark, or at least one of the wires. I brought it to him while it was acting up, and we didn't even get out of his parking lot and he was laughing. "Oh yeah, that's a miss. What year is this? So it's the LT1... It's likely the opti or a wire, but if you don't know the service history you might as well suck it up and do it. Just make sure the spacer comes out with the water pump, or else you'll double-up and it won't engage." was pretty much the conversation.
I called a car-handy buddy of mine who has had a C4 in the past, that he ran up to 350k miles. I'm pretty handy, but he's extra handy. I texted him, asking how familiar he is with replacing the opti, he says he's done it 4 or 5 times, so he called me:
"How's the car running?"
"Really good, initially."
"And then it gets hot..."
"Uh-huh. It's like you're in the car next to me, Joe!"
"Opti. And it's not really the nightmare everyone thinks it is. We'll bang it out in a day."
So I don't know for sure if it's the opti. I mean, I guess I can replace the plug wires and see what happens?
Is there any way to get into the opti to clean the sensor or check for debris? I read that taking the water pump off pretty much guarantees a ruined opti since it's going to be soaked in coolant.
Years ago I researched that sensor in the opti spark. It was a mitsubishi, and it showed up in some V6 late 80s Mistsubishis cars, the sensor that is. But the reality is, its not that bad of a distributor.
I went with DELTEQ, and have 2 spares.
The other option many chose uses 8 ls coils and works damn good.
Just got to keep it dry and she will run for a long time.
I really beleive it is just the cap and rotor that need to periodically changed. And while in there, clean the sensor with 99% alcohol..
But when the sensor dies, we dont have many options. Many above are very good..
Before you buy a new one, you should take the one out of your car and examine it. If the sensor and parts are fine, put a MSD cap and rotor on it, convert it over to the later model venting style and you will be fine UNLESS the bearing is wore out.
Regardless examine your unit before you buy and SAVE your old unit. Don't throw it away. Some folks put the Mitsibushi sensor assembly into other Opti's,
If you look down in the parts for sale section I am selling a brand new set of Taylor wires substantially less than what they are currently selling for.
I did not notice in your post but is your opti original? Dan
I'm not sure and I'm unsure how to tell. I've only owned it for a little over a year, and it came with zero paperwork. No maintenance records or anything.
If you look down in the parts for sale section I am selling a brand new set of Taylor wires substantially less than what they are currently selling for.
I'll take you up on that. Let me know shipping to 11980 and I'll venmo, PayPal, whatever.
I was going to go for the big 10.4mm 409 wires, but I'll save the extra $$$ for something else.
Look on the passenger side of the aluminum base plate for a dot-matrix number and date code. The date code is YMDD. Y=Last digit of year. M= Month, A=January, L=December, DD day of month.
If the date of the opti precedes the date on the certification sticker on the driver door, it is likely original to the car.
Opti Spark Date Code and Partnumber. 1992, March 05
I'll take you up on that. Let me know shipping to 11980 and I'll venmo, PayPal, whatever.
I was going to go for the big 10.4mm 409 wires, but I'll save the extra $$$ for something else.
Please go in the post and indicate you want them. Do you have an issue with me using UPS / FedEx ? There is a problem between Ohio and the East Coast shipping USPS. I have a package lost coming to me right now, and a few weeks ago it took 7 days to send a piece of registered mail that I could have driven to Pa in 3 hours.
Can you email me your addr and I will give you exact shipping ? I can go to the UPS store tomorrow. I will send you my email address via PM.
Also, I don't have Venmo/PayPal etc setup. Do you mind sending me a Postal Money Order ?
Look on the passenger side of the aluminum base plate for a dot-matrix number and date code. The date code is YMDD. Y=Last digit of year. M= Month, A=January, L=December, DD day of month.
If the date of the opti precedes the date on the certification sticker on the driver door, it is likely original to the car.
Opti Spark Date Code and Partnumber. 1992, March 05
Thanks for that. Is that visible with the opti still installed?
The car runs great until it gets hot. After driving for an hour or so, it starts to act up. It wants to fall over itself when you try to accelerate, and surges badly at idle.
But I do like the price of that SAC unit compared to the MSD! Holy smokes. I also believe that optidoctor on eBay is Optispark Solutions and from what I read here is that he's out of the game. I looked at Torqhead and considered it, but that's when I was thinking MSD prices. That was one of the first units to pop up in a search, and I thought that was the going rate for the optispark.
So my mechanic told me that it's likely the optispark, or at least one of the wires. I brought it to him while it was acting up, and we didn't even get out of his parking lot and he was laughing. "Oh yeah, that's a miss. What year is this? So it's the LT1... It's likely the opti or a wire, but if you don't know the service history you might as well suck it up and do it. Just make sure the spacer comes out with the water pump, or else you'll double-up and it won't engage." was pretty much the conversation.
I called a car-handy buddy of mine who has had a C4 in the past, that he ran up to 350k miles. I'm pretty handy, but he's extra handy. I texted him, asking how familiar he is with replacing the opti, he says he's done it 4 or 5 times, so he called me:
"How's the car running?"
"Really good, initially."
"And then it gets hot..."
"Uh-huh. It's like you're in the car next to me, Joe!"
"Opti. And it's not really the nightmare everyone thinks it is. We'll bang it out in a day."
So I don't know for sure if it's the opti. I mean, I guess I can replace the plug wires and see what happens?
Is there any way to get into the opti to clean the sensor or check for debris? I read that taking the water pump off pretty much guarantees a ruined opti since it's going to be soaked in coolant.
Have to take it out to take it apart. Uses some torx heads; may be torx security IIRC. I've yo-yo'd more than I care to count before I finally accepted it was a horrible design and went torqhead; although the SAC city units lasted fairly OK, I used mine for races only. It's pretty straight forward depending on how determined you are. I never had an AC condensor so I didn't have to worry about that; i'd just pull the radiator and container itself to give me tons of room.
Pull off your alternator, Disconnect your crank pulley (this is a PITA). You have to tilt it -just- right to get it to clear the steering rack, but you shouldn't have to take the rack itself off, there's a bolt that's kinda behind the PS pulley; need a coupler w/ a 14mm socket to get to it. Crank hub needs to be oriented like a "Y" with two of the three prongs at 60* off center (give clearance for opti).
Remember the bolts for the water pump are "wet" and you'll need to pick up some thread sealant (I use the brown "shallack" stuff) when installing the bolts back in.
The car runs great until it gets hot. After driving for an hour or so, it starts to act up. It wants to fall over itself when you try to accelerate, and surges badly at idle.
But I do like the price of that SAC unit compared to the MSD! Holy smokes. I also believe that optidoctor on eBay is Optispark Solutions and from what I read here is that he's out of the game. I looked at Torqhead and considered it, but that's when I was thinking MSD prices. That was one of the first units to pop up in a search, and I thought that was the going rate for the optispark.
So my mechanic told me that it's likely the optispark, or at least one of the wires. I brought it to him while it was acting up, and we didn't even get out of his parking lot and he was laughing. "Oh yeah, that's a miss. What year is this? So it's the LT1... It's likely the opti or a wire, but if you don't know the service history you might as well suck it up and do it. Just make sure the spacer comes out with the water pump, or else you'll double-up and it won't engage." was pretty much the conversation.
I called a car-handy buddy of mine who has had a C4 in the past, that he ran up to 350k miles. I'm pretty handy, but he's extra handy. I texted him, asking how familiar he is with replacing the opti, he says he's done it 4 or 5 times, so he called me:
"How's the car running?"
"Really good, initially."
"And then it gets hot..."
"Uh-huh. It's like you're in the car next to me, Joe!"
"Opti. And it's not really the nightmare everyone thinks it is. We'll bang it out in a day."
So I don't know for sure if it's the opti. I mean, I guess I can replace the plug wires and see what happens?
Is there any way to get into the opti to clean the sensor or check for debris? I read that taking the water pump off pretty much guarantees a ruined opti since it's going to be soaked in coolant.
By the time you've gotten access to the front of the opti to replace the wires, you're a good part of the way done with replacing the opti. Your friend is right, it's not as bad a some make it out to be. If you've got a friend with you, it's nothing more than an excuse to hang out in the garage with your friend. Good times.
If you do replace the opti, make sure to get a good one. How long is the wait for a Petris? It might be worth the wait and the cost to get it done and never worry about it again.
I'm poking around trying to gather up all the gaskets I need... So far I have the water pump gaskets, and maybe a good lead on the opti shaft seal... Beyond those three things, is there anything else I need for the job? I read about water pump driveshaft o-rings (https://bityl.co/RQqL). Do these generally come installed on the water pumps? Or included with the kits? If not, how many do I need? Just one?
I don't want to get halfway through this project and get jammed up because I've forgotten something small like that.
I did a full service on my Opti just a couple of months back. It is not a complicated or difficult job. You do have to be a bit patient, and this car better not be your daily driver.
The following is yea dependent...mine is a 96.
- You need the timing cover gasket set. Unless you are brave enough to remove the timing cover, you only need the water pump seal, Opti seal, and water pump gaskets. The kit also includes the timing cover gasket and crank seal.
-- You need to get the water pump seal installation tool. It looks like a large bullet...literally. I bought one off Amazon and it didn't work. I used my wife's lipstick cap. (whatever works, right?!)
- You need to get the Opti cap/rotor combo. I used Standard Motor Products brass cap kit
While I was there...
- Replaced both knock sensors
- Replaced water pump, temp sensor, and thermostat. A new water pump will come with the o-rings. So will the thermostat.
- Cleaned front end of the engine (notice on my post below I used a grease tube cap to seal up the Opti pin drive)
- Had the original damper rebuilt
- Replace the vent hoses to the Opti (again, year dependent). Ensure the check valve and orifice/filter flow through
The damper...the3 bolts are easy to get to. DO NOT remove the BIG center bolt. I highly recommend you soak the center of the damper/hub with PB Blaster a day or two before. I struggle to unfreeze mine. I also sprayed the knock sensors for the same reason.
If the damper is off the hub, but you are unable to wiggle it out because the steering rack is blocking...do not mess with the rack. Simply undo the two nuts holding the engine mounts to the chassis, and lift the engine about an inch. That's it!
Label your wires at the Opti so you don't lose the order. Painters tape and a pen did not work for me. As soon as they got wet, the writing was unreadable.
I got all the parts from Rockauto..no issues whatsoever.
If you engine is just like everyone else, you will see a lot of crud and oil on the timing cover. That's most likely coming from the china wall , where the manifold and engine meet. You will have to eventually remove and replace the gaskets/silicone to fix that seepage or it will get nasty again in a matter of months.
I have attached my experience working with the Opti for you to study
Optispark Options
