frustrated
So Bobcats are hard to find and I think the parts for them are even harder to find, But I'll try. SO what model should I look for? Have you seen an intercooler from a Bobcat? If you have how big are they? Also how big are their engines? They seem kinda small like inline 6 maybe 6 liters or 5? ;)
they welded the 2 intercoolers together to look like one.
I am looking for the link now
I cant find it. it was long ago. All they did was hack teh ends of the end tanks off and weld the 2 intercoolers together.
You could do the twin intercoolers as well. LPE did this on the C5's. If you got creative and felt like hacking stuff up, you could do it very similar.
[Modified by bill mcdonald, 1:15 AM 2/14/2003]
The LPE looks cool, but thats a C5 and I dont know if it will work for a C4. And done you think it would be harder to find smaller turbos?
Right now I'm thinking of changing my Transmission and heads and going to a MPFI unit and then Turbocharge that. I plan 400 FLy HP NA and then 580-600 on 7 psi boost( Cheap wastegates allow 7psi And I dont really want a boost controller for such a small amount of boost)(PLus my engine wont take that much) BUt will the IRS take it? 600FLY HP, will the Dana 36 break up into bits or hold up with street tires and maybe some line lock burnouts?
BTW what kind of mods are you going to do to your Vette Bill? :chevy
Smaller turbos would be easier all around. For fitting them, making boost at low RPM, the only thing bad about them, they can only make so much power.
If the drive line breaks, cool! :lol: Just more stuff to spend money on.
I dont think this is something I need to worry about untill I bolt on some slicks and hit the track. I have a 6 speed, so no weak auto to worry about here.
Right now I am debating on hooking up a direct port nitrous on my super ram and firring up a 200 shot. this will kick me back about 2000-2200 bucks.
... Then your gonna have a big problem picking out turbos.... Think how much more CFM the 427 needs over the 350..... The turbo cant be effiecnt with both....
If you get a bigger one now ready and setup for the 427+, then well.... your gonna have way to much lag and it will be out of its effieceny range... You need to know what RPMS you will be spinning to and how much air you will need to pick out a turbo.....
I dont think Lag will be much of a problem (with the right turbo)... V8s have plenty of off boost torque..... Im pretty much telling you straight out.... you cant use the same turbo for the 350 and 427+ cube...... You can change the shafts and internals I guess... the extrra amount of air needed it a whole lot... You need to start figuring out what EXACTLY you want when your finished.....
Your D36 might have some trouble... If you hook the tires..... You seem to be talkin some serious power at the end..... The stock Auto trans isnt gonn be happy
[Modified by StealDads67, 7:27 PM 2/14/2003]
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
BUT FOR NOW I only plan to use a TH400 and stock Pistons and change the HEads and then run ONLY 7PSI BOOST. And NO I WILL NOT USE MY Turbos from my 350 to my 427, I'll probably shove that engine combo when I'm done with it into an old GMC Truck. Then when I do that I'll change EVERY Piece of the drivetrain and engine to a BB, 4L80E and Solid Axel.
But FOr now I Only plan 575-600ish HP at the Fly with TH400 and hopefully the stock Dana 36 will hold up if I dont use slicks. I'm just sick and tired of knowing my Corvette was made to only pull 15's in the quarter, Thats horrible, I cannot even believe that they actually made the 84 so damm Slow :eek: :mad At least with this package I will be able to get 0-60mph times faster that 6.6 secs/ :lol: I wonder how much faster it would be with it :confused:
I can get turbos and wastegates cheap (~1200 new)
Custom intercooler I can get for cheaper then normal... dont know how much.. but probably (~500 i dont know, just guessing)
EXHAUST MANIFOLDS.... The biggest problem.... I myself dont have the resources to do this.. I have a MIG welder but niether me nor my father is good enough to fab. these our self.... Its a tough job if they are good...
Then all the aluminum piping.....
New A/C system (for me) pre-88.....
Downpiping......
Cooling system.... Thing is gonna run much hotter with all that piping....
FMU.... then getting it to run right....= Dyno runs.....
And then there is little stuff which cant be accounted for until its needed
There are things that can't be over looked.... Im looking at things....
Things likely to break
If my ZF-6 goes..... OUCH!!!!!! thats a lot of money, plus Im going to need a new clutch to hold the power.... Mcload Twin Disc- $1100
If my D44 goes..... OUCH AGAIN..... another grand or so....
Halfshafts- $350 dollars for unbreakables DennyDriveshafts
Billet spindles.... I dont know how much, But Im willing to bet they arent cheap
Fuel management..... If I want to do it right DFI $2000, If not ATI FMU $200
(slightly half@ssed)
My internals decide they had enough..... 2000 forged rotating assebly (hoping my heads are still intact)
Im starting to lose my courage to start this thing...... Someone help me out here and talk me out of this stupid mindset!!!!! Dont get me wrong.. Im still doing tons of research talking to a lot of professionals and experianced Turbos guys.. (good thing i have some connections) All the help of the forum memebers.....
EDIT: Your car during its time.... WAS A BEAST, an exotic killer.... :yesnod: Best of its days......
[Modified by StealDads67, 7:58 PM 2/14/2003]
Heres how my price sheet breaks down---
$1900 Turbos and Wastegates
$150 Block huggers
$150 U bends and someother parts to use with them
$200 on aluminum Pipes
$600 intercooler ( Hopefully a functionall Junkyard one or a wrecked BobCat)
$1400 TH400 Transmission
$500 driveline.
$1200 Heads
$2500 MPI anf fuel pump
$200-300 on shipping
$500 maybe for a better Radiator or a better fan
I think thats about it for cost. The Wastegates I found only open at 7psi and are only 300bucks so I think they are a good deal, unless you could tell me where I could get some cheaper Turbos instead of 650 pr Turbo.
I wont start my project till maybe Arpil or ending of March, I want to get a little more money and wait for the weather to clear up.
I dont think you would have to worry about forged internals if you only run 8psi boost on your stock engine. But if your going all out with Forged lower compression pistons and rods and Crank, Then I think you would have to change your Transmission.
I'm not sure how much power your manual transmission can hold, but I'm assuming not alot. BUT they do have Viper Transmission that handle 800+HP and they are T-56. Would they be the same size as F-body T-56 transmission? I heard of a Guy who did a T on his C4 and put in a T-56. Also if you look into the Viper Transmission, they are 2500 a piece. So I think it would be a really great buy if you get it and somehow fit it into your Corvette.
You could go all the way up to 900HP and not have to worry about it. :thumbs: Good luck, I hope this somehow helps you out :thumbs: :yesnod:
Also then thier are a couple of people using IRS and making good power like YOu MOnty, Doug Hegge, and then the other guy with a TT C4 1300HP and then Merlin. But what parts start to fail first? The u joints? Spindles? Anything else like driveaxels maybe? These parts can last just as long as I dontuse slicks right? Thanks for the link and help Monty :yesnod: :thumbs:
Also then thier are a couple of people using IRS and making good power like YOu MOnty, Doug Hegge, and then the other guy with a TT C4 1300HP and then Merlin. But what parts start to fail first? The u joints? Spindles? Anything else like driveaxels maybe? These parts can last just as long as I dontuse slicks right? Thanks for the link and help Monty :yesnod: :thumbs:
With HP comes TQ you just cant make 1000HP and only make 400ftlbs of TQ. It just doesnt work that way with SB;s so what the deal with that T56?
Monty, is there a site that draws out the needed parts of a turbo system? kind of like a turbo system schematic with explanations of each component. including all pumps (for oil return scavengin etc...) and tapping points for cooling if needed and oiling.. i think this would help some of us out and i have searched but not found anything that seems to be very helpful!
will check in again tomorrow evening!
take care guys,
Chris
SO I think Forged spindels and some new stronger Driveshafts and u joints and Driveaxel loops for protection if they ever break. I think I should check out that one site that Monty Posted more closely and find out what he used to make his Dana setup last :yesnod:
but then I can learn for you mistake i guess huh? lol.... I dont know which direction Im headed.... My Dad suggested I take the 63 Bel Air wagon and do it to that thing and make it a Ego Stomper EGO STPR (would be the lisence plate) with a Huge V8 twin turbo... IT would be SOOOOO much easier and would be cool as hell!!!!..... Not as cool as the vette.. but beating people in that thing would be fun.....
Impression Other person--> :cry I just lost to a wagon!
Me----> :party:
Here it is: I've got the turbo mounted in the callaway position, sounds kind of kinky but it's not. I had to get a full custom header, but that worked out VERY nicely. The guy did a great job, it's only mild steel but I wanted to go cheap incase this thing didn't pan out. There is a 60-1 HI-FI turbo on the end of it that will fit there pretty nicely. That is the largest turbonetics type turbo that you can fit into the small compressor size housing, and since space is an issue that's what I went with. The oil is run from a 1/4? plugged hole on the oil pump just above the oil filter. It takes a big square head to get it out. This is restricted by a 26 nitrous jet. Too much oil WILL blow the seals on the turbo!! :eek: This gets oil everywhere on the underside of your car. I have an electric differential fluid pump that pumps the oil back up into the passenger side valve cover through a hole I drilled into the oil cap. Exhaust is run open for now, you shouldn't go anything smaller than 3" or the turbo won't spool. I tried it with my stock exhaust hooked up and there was way to much back pressure to let the turbo spool properly. The largest problem with mounting the turbo in the callaway spot is getting the piping from the turbo to the throttlebody. I managed to sneek it between the steering rod and the header, but it's really tight. I made a temporary one using PVC piping, but on monday I'm having a guy make some custom intake piping for me using 304 stainless steel using mandrel bends and silicon couplers. He said it'll look really nice if I pollish it up. For fuel management I'm running a Vortech FMU with stock injectors. I think this will be good for now, but eventually I want to upgrade to a total engine management system.
I've taken it out and I've gotten the boost up to 0psi and then shoot a shot of nitrous to help spool it up and I don't get anything. I'm thinking my intake piping is leaking, so that's why I'm going to get some real stuff made. The engine seems to be running ok even though I have only one side of the twin turbo setup done. But because of this I'm not planning on making all that much boost, but hopefully some. I've also passed on the wastegate department until I get somekind of boost that comes close to the limit of what I want, 7psi.
Ready for the price breakdown:
Turbo $700
Custom Header ~$800 (one side)
Oil Lines ~$300
Oil sump pump $180
Airfilter $18
Wastegate $200
Intake Tubing $280
Boost Gague $60
Turbo timer $122 (Blitz DCC)
Vortech FMU $200
Learning Experiences ~$500
I hope this helps giving an actual experience of someone trying this. Feel free to post any questions or suggestions, I'm always listening. :cheers:








