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Do you think it would be safe to drill it out of the caliper. My thinking here is that contaminents would end up in the fluid/caliper if I do. I do still have to bleed the caliper(in the process of flushing all four corners), do you think the contaminents will come out during flushing.
From: Almost all Skyline Cruises Vettes at Waterside 1-5
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Re: Snapped bleeder valve help needed (chucks88)
:eek: I feel for you!
If it were me, I wouldn't worry so much about contaminants, they will bleed out as long as you keep the line full of fluid from Master cylinder to the wheel cylinder.
I would be more concerned about getting the broken piece out and a new bleeder in. I don't believe they manufacture oversize bleeder valves, so you will probably have to get the broken piece out without damaging the threads.
Fortunately, calipers cost less than $ 100.00 so if you have to get a new one it won't break the bank
Re: Snapped bleeder valve help needed (jackdaroofer)
I know advise is cheap, but I'd pull the caliper off the car so you can get a direct shot at it. Sears has a fairly good range of quality removal tools. Like Jack says, you may have to replace the caliper anyway. So in my thinking, you might as well get it off the car and into a vise.
It's my hunch you're going to try heating this sucker with a torch, so I'd just like to share the belief I have that the same guy who first heated a brake caliper also invented the flame thrower...coincidentally, at the same time... :rolleyes: :crazy:
Hey Chuck, dunno if the 88's new to you, but if it hasn't had brake maintenance long enough such that the bleed screws break off, you might just as well get some rebuilt units if its going to be a driver. (as opposed to a track car) You're doning the right thing of course trying to purge ALL of the fluid out of the system. While you're at the auto parts store, you might as well get yourself a set of four speed bleeders or eq. Makes life a LOT easier when doing routine brake maintenance.
If you broke an easyout then it's in there pretty good. I would take the caliper off and try on a bench or something more to your level. If you start using lubricants to try and get it out you'll have to clean it out anyways. Rebuilt is starting to look alot easier. I woulld first try all the rest before I do anything else though.
Good luck. :thumbs:
keep us posted since we'll be doing the same soon.
I have broke the easy outs off that screw in with a left hand thread. You can't drill out the easyout since its hardened. I have taken a fine drill and driled around the broken off easyout though and gotten it out. I would never use that type again. Seems all they would do is expand the frozen part and make it even tighter. Try the one that is square and tapered, some PB blaster soaking before hand might help. I wouldn't try it on the car though. Take the caliper off and put it in a vice where you can control it a little better.
Then again after a few hours of fooling around with it you may just decide the $60 for a rebuilt caliper is worth it. ;)