Hey,
Im new 2 all this sc stuff, can someone plz tell me wat the hell is a cog drive setup? and wat the hell is belt slipping?

Thanks :cheers:

 

Have you ever seen the blowers on dragsters or other superchaged engines with the typical 6-71 styled blowers? Their belts are like 3" wide and have teeth on them or a typical timing belt from an overhead cam rice burner these are all "gilmer" belts which is the correct name for them.

Belt slippage occurs when there isn't enough surface area to "grip" the pulley to apply adequate Hp into the blower to produce the boost levels that are desired. The typical blowers that you see on our C4s are normally driven by a serpentine belt that is 6 ribs wide, for some (stock) very modest boost levels this is adequate. But once you move away from the stock levels a 6 rib belt is inadequate to get enough Hp into the blower to get more boost out of it.

A blower is just a air compressor, a pump. And if you want to increase flow and pressure you have to spin it faster. And that takes more Hp to do, and when that occurs slippage happens, and the only way to prevent that is it go with a wider belt (8 ribs) or a cogged set up. Going with a wider belt gives you more surface area to "grip" the pulley, going with a cogged belt is like changing to a chain and sprocket there is no slippage and no give. This is good and also bad.

The good part is obvious, the bad happens if say you lean out or you something happens to your ignition system and your engine starts backfiring. Well when that happens the pressure that blows out of your engines intake tract goes right through the blower and when that happens it stops for an instant, but the crankshaft is still turning. Well what happens then? Well for the most part when the blower stops and the crank keeps turning it will strip a bunch of teeth off the belt, necessitating replacement. It can also damage the blower drive pulley or the blower in some extreme cases. Where as if you have a serpentine belt its allowed to slip when that happens. So there are pros and cons of both drive mechanisms. The large race blowers and some street blowers using the common 6-71 GMC style blowers has rupture plates or other safety mechanisms that blows out and releives the pressure when this happens.

 

Thanks a heap tjwong :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
im planing on installing a d-1 procharge with custum ic, will the cog setup have 2 be custum made? or can i get a kit? how much am i lookin in price

 

yes it is a custom made only. Also I think you had a L98 right? For the L98 you have to attach the cog pulley or 8 ribs to your crank pulley, where LT1 is a balancer and cog pulley all in one piece.

whether you are going with cog or 8 ribs conversion, they are both have it own belt to drive the blower. A blower kit will only come with one long butt serpentine belt that will drive everything.


Bruce
383LT1 Supercharged

 

Yeap that is right i have a 1988 L98, so custum is the only way 2 go, i wanna run high lvl of boost maybe 12 or 14psi. What about price am i looking around $1,000..?

Thanks Bruce :cheers:

 

I hope you're not talking about for a blower setup :nonod:

 

Your talking $$$ way out of your league!!!!! The blower kit/ extras and installation including a cog drive and intercooler----deduct 5years from your age and add 3 zeros. Then there is the motor. Then the transmission. Maybe $22,000?

 

Naw,The whole deal can be done around $6G's

Do the work yourself and take your time and on this board and at ATI the people are really nice and helpfull..

Dont scare the guy. :eek:

But it does cost about the same to buy a new car..Boring...


Rob

 

Hmm you know when you add up all the goodies......man its real expensive. Lets see.....

4340 Lunati lightweight crankshaft: $1100
Lunait Billet Rods: $1000
Custom JE Pistons $650
AFR Comp CNC ported heads with additional port work $3200
Comp custom ground cam: $275
Comp Hi Tech Roller rockers: $350
Sherman racing roller lifters: $450
LT4 Extreme timing set: $200
GM billet steel splayed main caps: $200
Rod, Mains, Cam bearings, Ring set and gaskets, seals misc parts: $250
Machine shop bill for machine work: about $2200

Center Force clutch and single mass flywheel: $650

B&B 3" Exhaust system: $950
Dr Gas X Pipe; $200
Headers: $375

Vortec blower base kit: $4500
Custom designed cogged belt system with spare parts: $1750

Mods for later:

Custom Spearco intercooler: $1500
T Trim upgrade: $1500
Long tube header upgrade: $700
Possible bullet cat addition: $350

Yep, I guess it adds up........and Im not sure thats even all of it. So ya it all adds up :(

 

TJ you forgot the 58mm throttle body $400.00
Boost retard $180.00
For that power level you need a Dart block $2000.00
Mini Ram intake $1400.00
Digital-7 with pro power coil $ 700.00
Bigger radiator $ 500.00
Upgrade fuel sytem lines pump & fuel rails $$ 750.00
Then their is the drive line uprades wheels and tires so you can apply your new found power to the ground several thousand more $$$$$$$$$$$ I'm sure I have left out several items but add this to what TJ has above and you will begain to get an idea of what you are talking about.



[Modified by black bart, 7:16 AM 10/1/2003]

 

Yep your are right Bart......but I am stuck with an LT1 and there are no DART or Motown blocks available for me :cry But World Castings say that there maybe plans for one next year. So I am hoping for that and if it does come about then we can make some real power :D

 

hey guy sorry about late reply i forgot 2 pay net bill ahaha :D> i plan on building a 406 (i wanna do 400rwhp n/a spec) before i install the sc and cog-setup, i wanna build it all myself with my oldman. The shipping price will most likly kill me the most, but the exchange rate is high so i think for xmas i will get all the parts and start building it

 

A good blown 383/396LT1/L98 motor with all the goodies can easily run you $20K I am very clsoe to that now. I did all labor except motor, I have Agostino Racing Engine built mine 383 stroker motor. I did the rest.


Bruce