When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If you want to send me your email addy I can send you the pics.
The motor (532") is based upon a Merlin Pro Race block (4.6" bore) that has splayed billet four bolt mains. The block has been o-ringed and the lifter bores have been indexed and enlarged to .904 (these roller lifters were almost $600 (OUCH!). I have Dart Pro1 heads with 2.30 intakes and 1.88 exhausts. Of course the EFI manifold had to be customized to fit under the stock hood (should have just bought a Hogan). It has a cola 4.0" blower crank and oliver steel billet connecting rods. Of course I used ARP studs throughout. Jessel shaft rockers. The blower is a reverse rotation Procharger F2. If I could show you the pictures you would see that I polished everything....Of course I had to make all of my brackets and pulleys that comprise the blower drive and almost all of the bracketry.. etc. I've been at this since August 2002..almost every night after work after the kids are in bed... Currently I am learning how to Tig weld so I can complete the intercooler... The engine does run and sounds great...
I had Indy Cylinder Heads build the short block.....
In a detuned state I'm hoping the put 1000 hp. to the rear wheels....
This is my first project of this sort.. If you all want the details just ask.. It was a bear to get the blower to fit.... pretty cool though.. I was even able to retain the AC....
The pistons are custom venolias that are 8.0-8.5:1 with the Dart Heads. I have no idea how much boost I will have, but will find the answer when I connect the duct work. I was shooting for 10 psi (7.65" lower and 4.5" blower pulley) but could not even find a 12 rib (or two 6 ribs) that were the right size to fit my homemade drive system... Anyway, had to go to a modified 4" pulley from another Procharger model (sc I believe) which I'm sure will create even more boost. Don't even get me started on the accessory drive!!!! Thank god I bought a cheap metal lathe from Harbor Freight because I used it to make everything..... Looking back on this project I would not attempt it again as there was just way too much involved.... moving the steering rack forward 2", lengthening the steering shaft, sectioning the front cross member, resectioning the front bar that runs in front of the motor, installing a ZR1 heater box (which still was not enough with my tall deck block and the Mickey Thomson valve covers...Speaking of valve covers, I had to notch the back of the drivers side to clear the windshield wiper motor. Of course the blower needs lots of fuel so I had to sump the tank with two 10AN fittings, two Aeromotive A10001 fuel pumps..... and on and on... I have WAY too much money in this thing.......
Thankfully I bought the car body (minus motor) with new parts that includes a brand new coil over conversion from exotic muscle (which also required moving the front sway bar forward), with larger sway bars. I've since installed the Baer Eradispeed brakes, A-mold wheels (17X11 rears with BFG 315 Drag Radials). The prior owner (Bruce S.) also included a brand new exotic muscle 3:73 third section. Bruce had everything on the suspension either polished, chromed, or powder coated. I even got the ZF6 speed,,thanks Bruce!!!!!
I think that 373 rear end is going to be overkill with your torque. Your going to have to start off in second gear. LOL. Hopefully you can post some pics soon.
Here are Tonys picture of his cool 532 installation:
One thing I may add for Tony, looking at the blower drive picture I would suggest taking your nice aluminum pulleys and have them hard anodized. I see in that picture that you are already transferring aluminum onto the belt and hard anodizing would prevent this. I designed my own blower drive as well and I had all my pulleys anodized which would increase their life span by a considerable amount.
Thanks!!! You da man! You are right, the idlers are getting aluminum on the belt already. I got the idler pulleys from Zoops and figured they were good to go...Apparently not....
Tony I uploaded them to a FTP site in my AOL account. Most ISPs allow like 10mb of room on their servers for their subscribers to use as webpages and the like. You can take your pulleys and have them hard anodized, but you will have to remove the bearings and snap rings. If you are in a major city I am sure that there are companies that do that there. Just look up anodizing in the yello pages. Most of them have a minimum charge, if so give them all you have that you may want anodized. I had mine all done in black, you can also do clear as well.
Paul,I do not have any pictures of the car (it is a black coupe) as it is dusty and up on jack stands so I can get under it to build the intercooler. As of tonight I finally got my Tig welder dialed in and will start mocking the intercooler core up this week to design the end tanks. The car is pretty much stock looking (by design). The only way you might think it was something out of the ordinary is the B&B huge exhaust exists, the pillar mounted fuel and boost gages, or it you looked underneath the car at the suspension. The former owner threw in a fully polished heim joint suspension w/ sway bar links as well. This car is going to ride like a tank... The previous owner polished all of the drive shafts, front a-arms, and powder coated the sway bars and rear carrier hubs (or whatever they are called)...
I'll post some pictures of this when I get the car cleaned up a bit.
Supposedly Zoops makes their pulleys out of T6061..... Who knows.. That's why I ended up buying a Mig welder, a Tig welder, drill press, hydraulic press, metal lathe, metal band saw... and on and on.... I just couldn't get satisfaction having other people do work for me... plus... it's ungodly expensive...This car has cost me a small forune... at least I'm not bitter. For example, I spent $2800 on that intake manifold (I polished it myself) and ended up spending another $300 getting it unwarped. I took me one month to eventually get it to seal and not leak......