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I was ready to start the top end this afternoon and took a look at the underside of the car (and from my perch on the top of the Kwiklift). Between all the :bs under the front of the engine and my inability to perform new contortionist maneuvers from the top, I decided to pull that LT-1 right out of there.
Look for a complete write-up on how to pull an LT-1 engine over the course of a weekend!
My lazy **** would leave the motor in place :jester
Good Luck :cheers:
I would too, but I checked out the clearance from underneath and it was negligible. The frame prevents me from even sticking my fat head up there to eye-ball anything. From the top, I'd be leaning over the front of the engine at almost a 90 degree angle.
I've dropped the tranny before, so it's not a big deal. Stay tuned! :)
It's hard for me to justify doing the job right given the tight clearance issues...
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Re: That's it - I'm pulling it! (cprgmr)
Will be doing the same thing myself tomorrow. Pulled the pan today and found crank damage, nearly spun a main. Started unbolting this evening, doesn't look as though it'll be too bad. Good luck and keep us posted!
Do yourself a favor, and get a 4' extension.. it is doable that way (barely!!). You need to feed the 4' extenson from behind the tranny, up over the tranny, and to the top couple bolts.. its not real easy..
If you have any questions on how to get that puppy out, give me an IM.. I've done it a couple times, and might be able to remember how I got some of the toughies out!! :D
Believe it or not,thats how I ended up pulling my L98...it needed some work done and when I spent all that time to get the stuff off and then got the heads off,I decided,why not just pull the engine?So i pulled the block out.
Its a bit faster(esp. If youve done it before) and far easier to do your mods on an engine stand.I have a bad back and If I needed to do a heads/cam swap or something,that motor is coming out of the car.I feel I can pull my engine out in far less time than it would be to tear down everything piece by piece in the car and would save my back and clearance problems.
Also,you can easily redo any gasket that you may want to change or may have a leak on the engine stand.
Have fun and enjoy the work.Its gonna be worth it.
:)
I just started pulling intake and heads due to spun bearing. I am going to remove heads before pulling engine. Hopefully that will allow me to get to trans bolts easier. There is very little room between front of engine and cross frame. I wasn't going to remove trans first but wonder if enough clearance to move engine forward to get off of trans to lift engine out. I sure could use some helpfull advice here.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Re: That's it - I'm pulling it! (MarkLT1)
Good luck with the bell housing bolts!!!
Do yourself a favor, and get a 4' extension.. it is doable that way (barely!!). You need to feed the 4' extenson from behind the tranny, up over the tranny, and to the top couple bolts.. its not real easy..
Really.....! The extension AND a quality swivel socket, preferably an impact type if there's room. That's always been the trick for the upper bolts on many applications!
You guys are all missing the point! This lucky SOB has a quicklift :lolg: Bill, we all goit bad backs :banghead: and cprgmr, might as well do the bottom while it's out, course maybe you already have :jester Man O Man don't we all just love to F with our babies and spend untold amounts of $$$. Have fun and get her back up quick :thumbs:
I have been doing a heads and cam swap on mine. Got to get the exhaust on it today and a few little odds and ends. About half way through this project I was wondering if pulling the engine would have been better. Oh, and by the way, I have a kwiklift as well. :cheers:
First thing that everyone forgets when doing a top-end...drain the coolant via the knock sensor or knock sensor plug(other side of the block where your knock sensor would be if it were on the other side).
I just started pulling intake and heads due to spun bearing. I am going to remove heads before pulling engine. Hopefully that will allow me to get to trans bolts easier. There is very little room between front of engine and cross frame. I wasn't going to remove trans first but wonder if enough clearance to move engine forward to get off of trans to lift engine out. I sure could use some helpfull advice here.
The trans(auto?) will come out with the engine..but the radiator and hood have to be removed.
Get a jack, to support the tranny.. Then get under the car, and remove all of the bell housing bolts.. it is a BIOTCH!! Set your lift, such that the front will come up before the back, and start lifting the front up. get the engine to about a 15 degree incline, and inch it forward.. then up.. then forward, then up.. eventually it will come out. Also, have the lift on the passenger side, so that the hood lift doesnt get in the way. It does make the job MUCH easier if you remove the hood alltogether. You can take the auto tranny out at the same time as the engine.. but to do this, you really need to pull the hood, and the radiator.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Re: That's it - I'm pulling it! (MarkLT1)
Yes, unless you need the tranny out for some reason there's no reason to remove them both. I'm going to remove the intake (to make it easier to hook up to), water pump and damper and then there should be enough room to come forward to get away from the trans. It doesn't have to come much on the automatic. I won't need to pull the radiator again (I just had it out) and will just tie the A/C stuff out of the way. This'll be a breeze compared to the engines I'm used to R&Ring at work in KWs, Peterbilts, etc. You haven't lived till you've done some of those! About 3 days on average not counting whatever you're doing to them while they're out.