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So a new Procharger kit still results in overheating problems? Not good as I just placed an order for one.
Who are you referring to? The only person posting overheating issues is the owner of the HO kit, and it sure sounds like he has a bad fan. The HO kit probably blocks more airflow on the engine side of the radiator than the FMIC kits...
I really thought all this had been resolved by the time I bought the kit...the installer said he had no problems with heat in the recent Procharger installs...turns out the "new" kit was new, but from late 2002 manufacture.
Can some one direct me to a post where the radiator mod is discussed. Pretty much know now I have to move the radiator...how did you guys do it?
What really pisses me off is that after spending thousands on FI (any kit) that anybody should have to spend more time/money to correct poor engineering on the part of the kit maker. No body even mentioned that there were potentially heating problems at the time of purchase.Just get the $$$ LOL
Clayton, I made a grammar error previously and a correction above.
I tried to take good pictures of my brake package & suspension. To dark. I am going to need a lot of professional lighting to get pictures of it.
I am not big fan at all on blocking airflow to the front brakes in any way. If you do that, then you have two new very hot heat sources to deal with and brake fade as well after hit them once.
I just put a shroud between my radiator and intercooler, the car runs 180-192 now. 192 under full boost. Fans kick on at 190. 200-213 max now with the a/c on full blast.
HighRPM is albsolutely correct on this "placing the intercooler there reduces that volume and potential cooling." Anything in front of motor obstructs air flow in the engine compartment and may even contribute to producing heat.
Ok I need to know how you did that. My temps have gotten up to 220's and were in the 250's when MTI left my stock radiator to cool a 427 with twin turbos. My coolant temps get max up to 215 or so, they come down really fast but I would like to have them where your are because I like to road race.
AND WHAT DOES ALKY MEAN?
Last edited by heavychevy; Aug 15, 2006 at 01:47 AM.
Are you really that dumb? Stock means no modifications to the eng. with just a supercharger added on. Now do you understand,or is that just to much for your little pea brain to comprehend?
uncalled for he was just joking which is noted by the and the , this is a good thread dont turn it into a pissing match.
DH, NA cars that dont have an Intercooler or a relocated radiator should run numbers like your car.
As for F/I cars with intercoolers and relocated radiators.. people are still looking for a fix. I have been talking about my setup for a while now and its time to post real time numbers... The other day it was 80 deg outside, I was driving on the freeway @ 65 mph with the A/C on. Temps were 180 coolant and 167 engine oil. Without A/C Coolant was 172 deg and the engine oil was the same.
On a cold night, the coolant will ride @ 169 deg.
IMO, those are pretty good numbers considering the mods on my car.
I installed a Griffin( the Griffin actually has 1 1/4 pass tubes versus 1") rad since Dewitts was on back order and so far so good. Car takes alot longer to heat up and when moving temps drop immediately. On the highway even in 80-90 degree heat AC on coolant temps are around 178-in the city with AC on it can climb to 200 but that's if your sitting if your moving it doesn't get that high. Also after talking to several tuners they suggested that's it not the greatest idea to have the fans come on at such low temps, fan comes on at 183 and fan 2 at 192-seems to be working fine now. I also custom fabbed up my own big mouth to draw air into the rad intercooler. I have yet to cut out the license plate area-it's illegeal up here in these parts.
DH, NA cars that dont have an Intercooler or a relocated radiator should run numbers like your car.
As for F/I cars with intercoolers and relocated radiators.. people are still looking for a fix. I have been talking about my setup for a while now and its time to post real time numbers... The other day it was 80 deg outside, I was driving on the freeway @ 65 mph with the A/C on. Temps were 180 coolant and 167 engine oil. Without A/C Coolant was 172 deg and the engine oil was the same.
On a cold night, the coolant will ride @ 169 deg.
IMO, those are pretty good numbers considering the mods on my car.
ching... ching....
VR
Steve
Your numbers are way cool
Anyways, I just put those numbers up for some probably useless info for you FI guys.....
You obviously have an oil cooler ...... aren't you concerned that your oil is too cool???? I thought 200 was ideal.
FWIW: Yesterday on freeway: 80mph (2500rpm), 79* ambient.
Anyways, I just put those numbers up for some probably useless info for you FI guys.....
You obviously have an oil cooler ...... aren't you concerned that your oil is too cool???? I thought 200 was ideal.
FWIW: Yesterday on freeway: 80mph (2500rpm), 79* ambient.
Coolant: 176
Oil: 207
Tranny: 133
DH
Wneh I am driving around town my oil temps hit 195-200 deg.. once I hit the open road it drops like a rock. So I feel comfortable knowing my oil is hitting a high enough of a temp to cook off any moisture it may accumulate.
BTW, oil cooling is just another way to internally cool an engine. I have Large Trucks with Turbo diesels that hold 10 gallons of oil in the pan... the coolant fan only comes on when needed.. and thats almost never.
That's what I am have been thinking about also. There's a lot going on about adding external oil and tranny coolers, but isn't there a temp range for lubricants to be at, to be most efficient in cooling, lubricating, viscosity, etc.?
I live in Colorado, so on the early spring and late fall mornings and nights, things can get down in the 30's. I was wondering if I were to use external coolers, should I have a thermostat on the cooler, or maybe have a fan that turns off/on, so the lubricants can get up to operating temp quickly, then the coolers come in and keep those temps where they need to be.
That's what I am have been thinking about also. There's a lot going on about adding external oil and tranny coolers, but isn't there a temp range for lubricants to be at, to be most efficient in cooling, lubricating, viscosity, etc.?
I live in Colorado, so on the early spring and late fall mornings and nights, things can get down in the 30's. I was wondering if I were to use external coolers, should I have a thermostat on the cooler, or maybe have a fan that turns off/on, so the lubricants can get up to operating temp quickly, then the coolers come in and keep those temps where they need to be.
TIA, Robi
Some guys run thermostats or cover the cooler when ambients turn cold.
But I installed one more mod the heavy tax on the License plate screen to get more cool air on my setup under cruise and it dropped my temps at high speed's to the 180's and have not been caught bad traffic yet and normal stop and go I still see 190's with the AC on of course. Here is a shot of my front setup
did you make the plate screen or where does one find a link to someone who sells it?