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St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14
Originally Posted by mike76002
EG, does he still need a BAP with this setup?
Thanks,
-Mike
Yes. His stock '04 pump is still retained. His forged 383 is at 675rwhp right now, and we are doing a pulley swap, new Tex clutch, A&A fuel system and a tune. Hoping for some big numbers when we are done.
Yes. His stock '04 pump is still retained. His forged 383 is at 675rwhp right now, and we are doing a pulley swap, new Tex clutch, A&A fuel system and a tune. Hoping for some big numbers when we are done.
Stephen
Stephen looks like one clean install on that A&A fuel system and we will be waiting for those big numbers
Got the instructions from Andy! They are very well detailed and there are a lot of pitcures! This seems to be a great fuel system that supports very high HP applications, looks good and comes from a great tuner with very well detailed instructions and for a great price!! What more can you ask?
What is the purpose of the golden-coloured brass thing* in the regulator (within the red area in the picture below)?
(I guess the regulator in A&A system is not exactly this regulator, but something almost similar.)
Also, what would be the best way to initially adjust the regulator? Should I just run the car at idle and see if 58 PSI is there, or should I "short-circuit" the boost switch to activate the additional pump at idle as well to adjust the regulator? Also, does the pressure increase in clock-wise or counter clock-wise? The car has 2003+ FFS fuel system (as well as A&A fuel system, of course).
*sorry, I don't know how it is called in english, so I just called it a thing.
Last edited by Pekka_Perkeles; Aug 28, 2007 at 10:58 AM.
What is the purpose of the golden-coloured brass thing* in the regulator (within the red area in the picture below)?
(I guess the regulator in A&A system is not exactly this regulator, but something almost similar.)
Also, what would be the best way to initially adjust the regulator? Should I just run the car at idle and see if 58 PSI is there, or should I "short-circuit" the boost switch to activate the additional pump at idle as well to adjust the regulator? Also, does the pressure increase in clock-wise or counter clock-wise? The car has 2003+ FFS fuel system (as well as A&A fuel system, of course).
*sorry, I don't know how it is called in english, so I just called it a thing.
That brass thing is actually a threaded plug that you can take out to put a pressure gauge.
Yes. His stock '04 pump is still retained. His forged 383 is at 675rwhp right now, and we are doing a pulley swap, new Tex clutch, A&A fuel system and a tune. Hoping for some big numbers when we are done.
Stephen
Just to clarify: stock 2004 pump but no need for BAP anymore, right? I took mine away, as I thought there's no reason to keep the BAP as additional pump should have enough capacity. I did keep the boost switch that came with BAP, though, and used it instead of what came with Andy's fuel system (as it's similar switch).
Ps: after reading this thread again, it may be that I don't have adjustable switch, although I'm not sure. Maybe I can somehow utilize what's left from BAP kit...
Last edited by Pekka_Perkeles; Aug 28, 2007 at 11:05 AM.
... if I may... only thing I'm concerned about is the fact that there are alot of fittings hanging off the end of that fuel rail with an attached return line unsupported all the way to the FPR which is mounted off the motor. I'm just thinking safety here. The motor is obviously going to torque over a little and although there may be enough slack in the return line it doesn't take a whole lot to snap off the schraeder valve. The potential fatigue setting in on the end of the factory fuel rail is troubling to me. Other than that looks like a really simple and effective way to supply more fuel
If i'm not mistaken, the regulator is supported by a special bracket thats mounted somewhere around the master cylinder or brake booster. So there shouldnt be any stress or sagging on the lines..
I'm not 100% sure though.
Originally Posted by Bill Reid
Really nice setup
... if I may... only thing I'm concerned about is the fact that there are alot of fittings hanging off the end of that fuel rail with an attached return line unsupported all the way to the FPR which is mounted off the motor. I'm just thinking safety here. The motor is obviously going to torque over a little and although there may be enough slack in the return line it doesn't take a whole lot to snap off the schraeder valve. The potential fatigue setting in on the end of the factory fuel rail is troubling to me. Other than that looks like a really simple and effective way to supply more fuel