PTK Alternator Relocation Users
On the other hand, I am getting ~13v, if I remember right?
I believe the image I posted shows the connector when looking at the alternator. You should be able to tell which is pin L. The only other connection from the alternator is the one with a 10mm nut and along with the big cable going to the starter/battery it goes to pin D of our GM connector.
Arnel
But from memory if you do a search for denso it will show you the 3 wires that connect to the Honda Civic Alt (135 amp).
on the GM big red is 12 vdc constant (IG), litte red is 12 vdc switched (S), and the other grey is frequency (F).
on the Denso you need the sense wire to go to the 12 vdc as it senses the vdc in the harness and the pcm adjust voltages across the harness via sense wire.
then there is the 12 ig which is just a constant 12vdc.
the other one I just hooked up because it was there and for noise cancellation (F, Fr) frequency.
Make sure you use a meter and test the back of the post on the alternator when the car is running...it should read 14.4-14.6. If the the vdc reads this are the back of the Alt, and you read 13.0 vdc on the DIC..this is the vdc drop across the harness...check your grounds and make sure the wires are hooked up right.
One other thing that I haven noted since hooking up the alt this way is that I no longer get the battery drain off that I used to..I went to start the car this weekend and it fired right up again. It used to be that if it sat for a couple of weeks it would'nt start...and I have an Optima Yellow Top.
Last edited by Shinobi'sZ; Feb 19, 2008 at 05:24 PM.
Sorry for my earlier post. I was looking at the posts from work and I guess the computers at work block images, so I didn't see the EXTREMELY helpful picture of the connector you posted. Thanks for the info.
And thanks for the help Shinobi'sZ provided. I think I have a handle on this now and hopefully when I get the motor back in, my voltage will stay above 10.7volts at idle (make tuning pretty flaky with the varying voltage and therefore injector trims....)
Derrick
RaceProven 912-285-9505
Pulley Part#: saphv6 (requires bushing part# 139-22a)
I haven't hooked up the wire's as Kevin is suggesting yet because I run the RaceProven alternator (single wire, doesn't need 12v to even turn it on) now with the smaller pulley and consistently see 13.9 and at a light maybe 13.5. However, I'm pretty optimistic if I can get the PCM to see the alternator's output via pin D, that will pretty much take care of our voltage regulation issues period.
Arnel
AVB,
Who sells this pulley? I can't find a company on-line called race proven (except a motocross co.). Summit sells a 1.693" pulley, but I'm not sure what sice shaft these alternators have. The one summit has is for a .650" shaft. I tried the re-wiring, but it just didn't work. So now I'm looking for an overdrive pulley as I have an under drive crank pulley with a normal size alternator pulley.
Thanks,
Derrick
Arnel
Keep in mind that this is with the alternator bracket that came with the PTK kit and not the custom stuff.
Arnel
Last edited by AVB; May 27, 2008 at 07:57 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Keep in mind that this is with the alternator bracket that came with the PTK kit and not the custom stuff.
Arnel
Thanks Arnel, more info on my setup HERE... http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=926343
and a pic of MY alternator(which i believe is what the kit comes with)
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...904c036f38.jpg


wicked.
What are you using to keep the alt voltage up? I can't find an overdrive pulley for this damn Honda alt that came with the kit. The one listed earlier in this thread I can't find anywhere and the guy I was given as a contact hasn't responded to me.... This sucks with an underdrive crank pulley. At idle it just drains the battery. Even up around 1200 RPM it's still only around 12V. I looked at the new MSD alternator with adjustable mounting brackets, but it looks to be just a bit too large to fit. How can you wire this thing to increase it's output or at least have it kick in at a lower RPM. Of course the damn shaft is too small to use the thousands of overdrive pulleys available for the .665" shaft. Damn Japanese can't get anything right... (Just kidding)
Derrick
terminal B is a red wire(according to document ID # 613938)
terminal C is grey wire generator L terminal
terminal D is RED wire and is "battery"
so from what I read here...
terminal C which is a grey wire will now be attached to the PTK alternator "FR" terminal
Terminal B (red wire) will now be attached to PTK alternator"L"
Terminal D is going to where?.....
and what about the other terminals on the connector?
either I am having a brain fart and I am not thinking clearly,...or something.
Kevin I want your hood! I emailed you on info to buy one?
Really though your cars look great!!!I was having charging problems so I started to read the threads on this issue. I hooked up the wires per the discussion, and I'm getting great voltage. My only concern is the stator is always charged (full field) so it will eventually drain the battery? I tried to switch the 2 little red wires coming from the Gm plug, but the voltage is to low but the field is off with the ignition off. Are you guys having the same problem? Is your alternator a permanent magnet even when the ignition is off?

This is how I wired it?
Alternator Plug------GM Plug
(L) Blue----------------Small Red
(IG) Yellow-------------larger red
(FR) Gray--------------Gray
Last edited by babala65; Jul 24, 2008 at 04:41 PM.


















