Hi Dan I got your email but will have to wait until the weekend to go to my shop and look at my notes and wiring diagram. One of the red wires (large) goes to a constant 12vdc, small red is 12vdc switched, and I put the grey wire to the (field) to cut down on noise through the harness....but I have it written down.

As for the hood call ACP, I will call them and give them your name.

 

SUP DANNY!!!!!

 

I little off topic, but Nick, do you have any different pics of that shroud you made over the radiator area? I've tried different things, but nothing even close to as fancy as that. I also never thought about making i tthat high to clear the air filters. Excellent idea.

Also, which alternator are you using??? Yours seem to have no clearance issues. I had to "massage" the alternator to get it to clear tall valve covers. I'm using the honda civic (high amp version) that came with the kit still...

Derrick

 

hey derrick,

yeah i am using the ame one that came w/kit too. rebuilt it twice....cheap and very easy. i do run raceproven's 1.9 pulley though thay actually have a smaller one! no clearance issue w/valve cover but when i went to ls2 intake and TB i had to fab up my own power steering tank.

yeah the shroud is the BOMB!

ur correct there are alot of considerations for clearNCE when making that piece. it has lots of functionality as u stated....alomost like an airbox..let me look around for some more pics

 

Ok...Let's bring this one back from the dead again as I got a chance to work on mine.

Here's a quick story on the car. Shop has car for motor swap/turbo install. The way they had the alternator wired was spliced from fuse box by battery and the wire was setup as switched I got the charge system fault in the DIC. Ok, we knew that already about the DIC.

Now, today, going off of this thread, we used the GM plug for the stock alternator (at least the shop didn't cut that off). We went according to what was said here, plus many more combinations and we're still getting the charge faults.

I believe the correct way is small red wire goes on the drivers top connector, large red wire goes on the passenger side connector, and the gray wire goes on the lower driver side connector.

**Another weird thing, I guess the small red wire from the GM connector is switched. When I turn the key on without starting the car, there is no voltage to this wire. I am not sure if this is the case or how it was designed. Also, the large red wire from the GM harness is constant. I can hear the alternator humming with the keys out of the ignition. **

Now, I am certainly not ruling out a freakin horrible hack job on the electrical as they spliced into things they should have. Actually, I am certain that they have and it pisses me off.

Here is the weird thing. When I have a combination of wires plugged in, I think it was Large Red wire on drivers top connector, and then plugged the spliced wire from the shop that did the work on the passenger top connector, my damn fuel pump turns on!!!!!

Do any of you know where they may have spliced from?

 

I just spliced the Denso connector into my existing GM harness wires and have been running it for a long time that way now. Previously I had run a wire over from the fuse box that was just a 12vdc switched...until I did a little schematic reading.

On the harness there are two red wires (large & small) and one grey wire. One wire (large red) is 12vdc constant which goes to the starter, then there is the grey wire which is a Frequency wire, the small red wire is the 12vdc switched or excite and it will not read any power until the car is running..then it only reads about 5-6 vdc. My camaro only uses (factory) one wire to excite the alt and when I read it out it only reads 5-6 vdc as well.

Hope this helps. The simplest way to do this is to just hook up a wire that is 12vdc switched from the fuse box and see if you get 14.2vdc volts on the back of the post (largest red wire) of the alt from the battery..this shows that the alt is charging correctly and the vdc on the dic is just the voltage drop across the harness.

So if the back of your alt reads 14.2-14.6vdc using a volt meter and on the dic it shows 13.9-14.1...it is fine.

With all accessories (ac, fans, stereo, headlights) on this summer (100* plus temps) the lowest my vdc got on the dic was 12.9. Normal operation is 13.8-14.0 vdc.

I have mine wired up to the GM harness...after 3 years and severe outside temps I had to replace the regulator. AVB (Arnel) had a used Honda alt that he purchased off the shelf and I have been using it since.

I have the original Denso "load boss" Alt with the replaced regulator but haven't put it back on yet. I want to see how long this $100 stock honda alt lasts....have to wait until it gets back over 100* outside temp so that I can stress it out.

 

Hey Nick,

Can you shoot me the contact info where to get those smaller alternator pullies. Thanks !

 

Dang I guess this is where all the cool people have been hanging out!! I run a smaller altenator pulley on mine also no charging system problems here.
I got mine from revextreme, But I believe that Jeff@Total HP Performance has some really nice pullies he is selling also.

 

do any of you get battery drain with it wired up this way? if i leave my car for two weeks with out driving it i get a dead battery. i have a 3pin weather pack connector hooked up ill have to unplug and see if it makes a difference.

 

I give two thumbs up on the battery drain ... I put a shut off switch on my car.

 

send me a PM ....
when i get to work ill send # to u!

see that bosch link that i sent to u?

 

i get a little battery drain on my setup, never thought of running a kill switch i just keep mine on a tender when not driving it.

 

Thanks Nick, I got the email !

 

been getting battery drain as well,...I think the car might have a draw from somewhere else but, just mounted my on off switch so, i'll just shut the car down everywhere.



I do get the service charging system message still but, the car does charge

 

yeah i used to get the message too but you can get the code tuned out with hp tuners or efi live so it stops popping up

 

When I had the alt wired up with one wire to the fuse box...after 2 weeks sitting with no use the battery would be dead...this was with a fully charged Optima Yellow Top. Then I put a battery tender on.....then I wired up the alt like the factory and have not put the tender on for almost 1 month and it fired right up.

My other GM vehicle will get battery drain after sitting for a couple of weeks...but not fully drained...just can see and hear the alt charging after start up.

 

drain is from the alternator for sure. I took off the connections and the drain stopped.

 

where did you splice into for the switch?