How does the PTK Alternator charge for you ? I saw mid to low 13 volts at idle. But the guage in the car only shows 12. I figured it may still be considered low. Tell me what you got boys !

 

kevin got the answer...btw use ur scanner and turn off ur fans and watch the volts go up.....fans drawl!!!

 

Also, if you don't already the smaller pulley is a "great to have"

 

How big is the "smaller" pulley ?

 

I recently (as of last month) had Bill Curlee email me the wiring schematic fromt he manaul for the alternator connector. I then compared it to the Denso Connector plug from the Alternator to figure out what it was looking for. (L)amp, (S)ense, (I)gnition, (F)requency, etc...these are the different types of letters on each connector..I might be missing one (doing this from memory).

Anyway after doing a web search for Denso Alt I found a lot of Mopar's swapping this Alternator in for weight savings and reliability. Most of them just run a one wire..but this is not ideal for a modern ECM controlled vehicle. So I looked into it some more. Here is the GM Alt Connector

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What I found is that the Denso has the same requirements and I simply spliced the 3 wires from the Denso over to the GM Connector.

I now have 14.1-14.2vdc on the vdc at start up and 13.8-14.0vdc after driving for 1 hour.

Whereas before (one wire for 12vdc for I) I was seeing 13.5 at start up and dropping to 12.9-13.2 after driving (fans, ac on and radio, etc..).

I thought my Alt was bad but I took it to a good Automotive Electric shop and they load tested it. The Alt checked out to be 14.6vdc. I explained the issue to the technician and he told me to put the Alt back on the vehicle and measure the vdc at the back of the post where the battery cable hooks up the Alt. He told me I should get the same vdc as he did on the bench. Then whatever the vdc reads on the DIC..is the voltage drop across the wiring harness (this is where the an ECM vehicle is different and needs more then 1 wire). It ended up that I was gettting 14.6 vdc at the back of the Alt and 13.2 on the DIC. (tech said vdc between 14.2-14.6 is good when measured on the battery post on the back of the alt).

After I rewired it using the GM schematic and the Denso diagram.....I have much better results. In fact after rewiring, the car sat for about a month and it fired right up....the battery didn't drain down. Normally I have to put a battery tender on it or recharge (yellow top Optima).

So far so good....good luck. If you need anything else let me know. First thing I would do though is measure the vdc on back of the Alt...while the motor is running (idle).

I'm using the same pully the came on the (original) Alternator....which I have been running for 3 years now.

 

Just got off the phone with em... it's 1.75". They may have a 1.5" as an option but also keep in mind, alternator's can be tweaked internally (stator?) to have output kick in at lower rpms.

RaceProven 912-285-9505
Pulley Part#: saphv6 (requires bushing part# 139-22a)


I haven't hooked up the wire's as Kevin is suggesting yet because I run the RaceProven alternator (single wire, doesn't need 12v to even turn it on) now with the smaller pulley and consistently see 13.9 and at a light maybe 13.5. However, I'm pretty optimistic if I can get the PCM to see the alternator's output via pin D, that will pretty much take care of our voltage regulation issues period.



Arnel

 

You may be fine but the Automovtive Electric shop told me that if the Alternator is not putting out over 14vdc at the battery post on the back of the Alternator...then it is not functioning correctly to supply the 12vdc to power electronics and the 2vdc to charge the battery.

However having said this if everything is working correctly and you can leave your car sit without a battery tender or recharging...it must not be an issue. I have been running the car for 2 years with a one wire 12vdc switched and it seems to have worked well enough for the summer months running AC, Stereo, and Headlights...it would just get down into the low 12.4 when everything was on. I put everything on now (since I rewired) and it only got down to 13.8-14.0.

But the cost difference between Raceproven and Denso is about $200 the Denso gets a lifetime warranty too...and it appears that I am averaging what your high is 13.9 after mine is warmed up.

 

does anyone know what pin it is? is it even in the bcm or pcm?

 

so curcuit 225?
which connector on the denso does it go on?
i am currently self exciting..get it..hehehehehe

 

Don't remind me. I'm hoping that the value is in it's ability to live and stay stable better during track conditions and during the hotter months. I'm logging voltages now so it'll be checked one way or another.


Arnel

 

Mine goes down to about 11.4 volts (with the fans on) at idle. But just above 1200RPM the voltage would go up to ~13.2 volts until a few days ago where now it's hitting 14+ volts above idle. I have no idea why it's diffferent. I have the one wire alternator that came with the PTK TT kit. These voltages are from the DIC, not from the alt. terminal post. I don't understand the "rewiring" diagram above though. What did you connect to what with the one wire alternator?

Also, who sells the smaller pulley setup mentioned earlier?

Derrick

 

Highlight the word race proven and about an inch to the right where I give the part #

 

Keep an eye on it.. unfortunately mine did something odd right before it just stopped.

As or the wiring from what I got ( and I hope Kevin confirms this) is that the single excite wire that we use to turn on the alternator connects to the original harness/connector on pin B. Pin D then connects to the terminal to sample it's output.


Arnel

 

If you read the wiring diagram and compare it to the connector on back of your Denso..they have the same functions...just lettered differently.

"B" is the small red wire on the GM Alt connecter is for the 12vdc switched. The Large Red wire on the GM connector is for 12 vdc battery/constant. The grey wire is the simple phase wire...which I believe is for noise cancellation more then anything else.

"D" is the large Red wire that (is constant) senses the battery voltage the alt will excite to keep it charged. The small red wire "B" 12vdc switched monitors the cable harness or voltage within the cable harness and also helps the alt excite to make sure there is always 12vdc to the electrical components.

I took pictures of everything...while idling and driving..the only problem is that they are on my camera phone and the pos won't let me down load it to my computer...even when I look for the USB settings in connection...old Razor.

 

MORE JUICE???? (subscribing)

 

Help, I have the motor ut of my car to fix a bent reluctor ring, and I want to connect the alternator as mentioned above. But I can't find any labels on the terminals of the alternator. Which terminal is which and which wires go to which of the stock harness???? My terminals onthe alternator are oriented as below:


| |
_ _

Thanks for any help.

Derrick

 

LB has been banned for life and can't reply.

 

Based on what's been posted I believe it goes like this...

Pin B from GM connector goes to pin L of PTK alternator.
Pin D from GM connector goes to main terminal of PTK alternator.

 

Unfortunately, my alternator and connector have no labels onthem, so I don't know which pin is which, and I've long since thrown out any instructions that came with the kit. I had the alternator set up with the main supply going to the post and a switched 12v source to one of the terminals (yellow wire terminal from the connector). But it would be great to let the PCM control the alternator again and connect it as listed previously here, but I don't know which terminal on the alternator is which....

Derrick

 

Derrick,

I believe the image I posted shows the connector when looking at the alternator. You should be able to tell which is pin L. The only other connection from the alternator is the one with a 10mm nut and along with the big cable going to the starter/battery it goes to pin D of our GM connector.

Arnel