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My question is which car would be a faster street car if both motors were identical 402 but one car is running around 7 pounds of boost and the other is running a 150 shot of nitrous. Also which do you all think would be faster in the quarter? Thanks in advance for your answers...
My question is which car would be a faster street car if both motors were identical 402 but one car is running around 7 pounds of boost and the other is running a 150 shot of nitrous. Also which do you all think would be faster in the quarter? Thanks in advance for your answers...
Too many variables to give you a real answer!
Is the 7 lbs. of boost with a turbo or a centri or a maggie or a KB? They all have different powerbands and deliver the power differently.
Other than this, I'd say that it'd be a good race because the bottle delivers INSTANT torque, which is hard to beat, but you don't have to fill up boost or heat it.
Also, if you've got a 402, obviously it's probably sporting some forged goodies, so why stop at 7 psi or 150 shot for that matter.
Yes my 402 is being completed with all the goodies. I had a procharger on stock cubes but decided to go with with the 402 on n20 after I blew the engine.I was just wondering if my car is gonna be as fast as it was with the D 1 on stock cubes. Im going with a 150 shot to start with but my builder said that I could go with a lot bigger shot if I wanted. Im just not that familar with n20..
I've now had both and I feel the instant torque of the N2O, along with the ability to determine EXACTLY when it will hit, is a race winner.
I've had three 10 sec. N2O (100% street) Vettes, including the C5 I have now. I put this one deep in the 10s with a 150 shot of spray, but it will be a little tougher now that I am FI even though I have MUCH more hp power (not torque)
The issue of course, is that the bottle runs out and then what? If I can EVER get the tune worked out on this setup, I think FI is going to be much more fun, if maybe not quite as fast while the bottle last.
I guess if the 150 shot it not enough Ill just go to the 200 shot. Hopefully my bottle wont run outI was referring to a centri type blower when I asked the question with everything else being just about equal.
I've now had both and I feel the instant torque of the N2O, along with the ability to determine EXACTLY when it will hit, is a race winner.
I've had three 10 sec. N2O (100% street) Vettes, including the C5 I have now. I put this one deep in the 10s with a 150 shot of spray, but it will be a little tougher now that I am FI even though I have MUCH more hp power (not torque)
The issue of course, is that the bottle runs out and then what? If I can EVER get the tune worked out on this setup, I think FI is going to be much more fun, if maybe not quite as fast while the bottle last.
What was your setup when you ran the nitrous into the tens. That is what I want to accomplish...
What was your setup when you ran the nitrous into the tens. That is what I want to accomplish...
I had the same engine setup as my sig, MINUS the blower and plus a vararam. I ran a NX kit with Dave's Nitrous plate. I put down 563rwhp and 620+rwtq on the 150 shot.
I hit a manual arming switch (the throttle switch was already engaged at wot) as soon as I got hooked up WELL in first gear to get the best times. To prevent breaking, I USUALLY hit it as soon as it hit second gear.
"sure the hit of N20 is instant but after the hit you start losing bottle pressure and the boosted car is catches you and goes around you."
I didn't really see that as long as I had well filled and heated bottle. I started with around 1200psi and rarely finsihed less than 950-1000psi which was plenty
I had the same engine setup as my sig, MINUS the blower and plus a vararam. I ran a NX kit with Dave's Nitrous plate. I put down 563rwhp and 620+rwtq on the 150 shot.
I hit a manual arming switch (the throttle switch was already engaged at wot) as soon as I got hooked up WELL in first gear to get the best times. To prevent breaking, I USUALLY hit it as soon as it hit second gear.
"sure the hit of N20 is instant but after the hit you start losing bottle pressure and the boosted car is catches you and goes around you."
I didn't really see that as long as I had well filled and heated bottle. I started with around 1200psi and rarely finsihed less than 950-1000psi which was plenty
I am also gonna be running the nx system.How does the nano work and will it work with the nx?Also what safety features did you have?I'm hoping for those same type of numbers that you posted..Any further info will be greatly appreaciated..
Also what safety features did you have?I'm hoping for those same type of numbers that you posted..Any further info will be greatly appreaciated..
I ran a Dynotune lean cut off switch that shut off the solenoids if the AFR went above a predetermined level.
I ran a timing tuner to pull timing on activation, as well as set min activation and max rpm cut off off the N2O
I took the time (several dyno runs) to dial in the exact AFR I wanted at both 125 and 150 levels (I kept the 125 pills in it unless I was going to the track)
We do run Nano. It's a great way to keep consistent bottle pressure so Zo6wanted cant drive around you from the bottle losing pressure It does have its disadvantages though. It's another bottle to fill, but IMO it's well worth the trouble. I used to use a bottle heater and had to wait patiently for the heater to work. Now I open another valve and have instant and consistent bottle pressure. I have a large master tank of Nitrogen (or compressed air) in my trailer so I can quickly and conveniently fill my Nano bottle. The advantage of using the boost is that it's always there with no bottles to fill and it never runs out! Good luck with your decision...
I am definately going with the nitrous. I just dont want the boosted cars driving around meI have to figure out which safety features Im gonna use.I have already got rid of the supercharger. Is there a vender on here that sells the nano?