Bigger is better

 

Not in every case. Jay is just a trouble maker.

 

That one of those big *** cans don't work.

(Two might) and that bigger is better and to plum into everywhere possible if your not using one of those cool pumps. :-)

 

 

Trying to find out who may carry the check valves on the RX cans. Both of mine seem to have broken or came apart. Not sure from heat or what but noticed lots of blow-by inside the intake while doing a cam & head swap. Tried making some calls but haven't heard back. Anyone else had this problem maybe?

 

I am looking for a sanity check before I proceed with my final install on a new catch can, and a few questions.. I am replacing a RX three line can.

I will keep the check valve breather on the passenger valve cover.
I want to run the existing pcv valve and line from the drivers side cover to the catch can.
A line from the catch can to the intake side of the vortech blower inlet and a third line from the intake on the passenger side.
Capping off the passenger side valve cover port and valley port.


I am planning on using AN-8 size line for all.
1st Question is which lines need a check valve and in which direction, and what are the recommendations on what check valve to use.
2nd Question: I have the opportunity to add a breather on the catch can. Recommendation on yah or nay.
Thanks in advance for any info, I know this has been discussed to death but I want to get this right.

 

Bump!!!

To the top.

 

So are you saying that the Dual check valve Monster Stage ll catch can or the EE E2X arent working ???
If thats the case could you explain why ???
Was looking for one...

 

It wasn't enough for me. I needed more. So I opened my check book and got more. :-). Eventually I'd like to just quit playing games and do a vacuum pump.

With most of the catch can systems out there (anything short of a belt driven pump) The more you vent / draw the better. That's all there is to it in a nutshell.

With the pumps, it is possible to have too much vacuum. You can actually start pulling oil away from bearings n such. You can read about it if you google it

 

Here is my setup.
07 LS2 with an LS6 valley.
Check valve between valley and tb
Each valve cover is vented with -10 to my big *** catch can

 

The most intelligent thing said so far in the thread.

 

I don't even know where I could run a vacuum pump honestly. And when I looked into it they were pretty pricey as well. I know I know, that's all relative lol But is there a cheaper solution that would make my setup better?

 

I've done oil sampling while running on continuous duty, turbocharged, natural gas engines running sour field gas that had nothing more than a breather system for crankcase. Even running at 100% load, over 15psi 24hrs a day, it took over a week for oil to become acidic. Everyone understands that a vacuum/drafted system is better technically. But, before you start telling people that with a breather system their oil is going to be "bad" after a single outing, I would like to see some data to support this, how and where it was sampled, and what exactly is being used as a pass/fail criteria for the oil sampling.

 

At what flow in cfm's does a vent system like his become a restriction where crankcase pressure is not properly relieved? What percentage of the contaminants are trapped in the filter media via vacuum vs venting? How much crankcase pressure at a given piston speed will cause ring flutter? And what's the tension on those ring?

 

You've missed my point, and still haven't answered my inquiry. My over a week reference is under boost for nearly 200 hours on the same oil, with only a breather, and burning coal bed methane with H2S in it straight out of the earth. Only then the viscosity hit limits and acid levels overtook base. In these cars, burning pump gas, race fuel, etc. that are actually refined fuels; run time between oil changes is significantly less even if done at 3000mi. So, my inquiry remains before you start telling people that with a breather system their oil is going to be "bad" after a single outing, I would like to see some data to support this, how and where it was sampled, and what exactly is being used as a pass/fail criteria for the oil sampling.


"If you do not care for these explanations, please do as you are, but please do not disrupt this thread and confuse those that do wish to learn."

I do care for technical explanations. You made a claim to an extremely short oil life (one outing) if a breather system is utilized, i'm calling BS, and I would like to know what testing you have done to validate. What I find disruptive in threads like these are when vendors step in with explanations and an end goal to sell a product. If you have data, please post it. Not from a google search.

 

I hate to resurrect a 2 year old thread but I have been reading and following this and Iam curious as to why it just stopped so suddenly without any rebuttal? Is there any data to prove this setup works or is this overkill on a centri car with under 14lbs boost? I have talked to Andy (A&A Corvettes) and he says no catch can is recommended or needed with his system.

I have seen that Doug from ECS has chimed in on this thread a few times but never states if "the ECS kit ships this way and is fine right out of the box....no catch can needed". I am only assuming that is the case otherwise wouldn't there be a disclaimer?

Iam only interested in the facts...I don't need a product pushed onto me. I can make a decision on if its worth purchasing...I just find it odd there is no other alternative except to buy "Elite or CS Catch can" to properly evac the system. I know from reading all of this...it just seems to be a lot of speculation to if it is really necessary or not. I have zero knowledge in oil contamination and its effects on a motor in relation to boosting applications. I just have my common sense which is telling me...if the contamination issue was a huge big deal, lots of motors would be blowing up prematurely and everybody would be setting their cars up using this system as fact instead of theory. Again, I don't know. I guess my comparison would be telling a smoker they need to stop because its going to kill them and they decide to continue. They do and live to be 80 years old. On the flip side of the coin, the other person chooses to take the smart logical advice and never smokes, eats healthy and even exercises. They end up dying at 60 from a heart attack.

 

this demonstration here seems relevant to your question

 

Thats with N/A setup and its really impressive result but what about a centri blower setup.

The vaccum line instead of being in the cold air is connected within 1/2 of blower inlet ???

Would it create enough vaccum ???

 

n/a or supercharged you really do not want restriction at your air filter, that would be like suggesting switching to a smaller/ worse air filter (and lose hp) because you want to draw harder on the crankcase.

also keep in mind even if you do make the vent line large enough to begin to show some actual vac, you are making your engine eat more and more crankcase fumes at full load instead of clean fresh air. it will be able to make more power with the cooler and oxygen rich fresh air.

the math usually comes out that you will lose 20hp to gain 5, so unless unusual circumstance / customer request, I don't bother.

here is my top you can use for this particular need, on my personal 1200hp twin turbo c7 z06 i use the breather top. (was stock superchraged at the time of this vid)

 

Thanks David. So are you saying...yes it is a smart idea to invest in some type of catch can that will allow recirculation and venting? Iam believing so but when you said on your personal car you just run a breather and that its not worth it...had me confused.
I think I am getting more and more confused as to what is the recommended best plumbing process and line diameter to be used to properly relieve crankcase pressure, evaculation, recirculation and venting. I already have an Elite non venting, non recirculating catch can, checkvalve and its venting down to the airbox via 5/8" hose.