The Forced Induction Crankcase Evac Thread
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 12,413
Likes: 502
From: Rio Rancho NM
OK WHAT EVER YOU DO. MAKE SURE IT IS VENTING PLENTY DURING HIGH BOOST PULLS.
I didnt have enough "vent " when i was on the dyno and i pushed oil past the rear main seal onto the clutch. Of course the clutch started slipping.
oil on clutch. I was 17.5 psi
This is what i did this go round.
And these 12an fittings will run to a breather can with a filter on the top.
Ill vent the valley cover to a can and then into the blower inlet
I didnt have enough "vent " when i was on the dyno and i pushed oil past the rear main seal onto the clutch. Of course the clutch started slipping.
oil on clutch. I was 17.5 psi
This is what i did this go round.
And these 12an fittings will run to a breather can with a filter on the top.
Ill vent the valley cover to a can and then into the blower inlet
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
chicago1, it's doing really well so far. I've had about 1000miles on the set up and it's been working awesome. I still run smaller hoses off the valley cover and valve cover to a can. then to the blower intake
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 12,413
Likes: 502
From: Rio Rancho NM
Any pics? I just got my vc back with the -10an lines welded on. My catch can with filter should be here friday
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 7,639
Likes: 326
From: Greenville SC
Installing the RX dual valve, on an LS6. There is no tube etc on the drivers side valve cover, just a plastic cap in a hole, how do I hook up the tubing? Is something missing, what connector do I need?
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,801
Likes: 1
From: Tulsa Ok
I'd tell you what exactly I bought but I forgot.
Last edited by danieloneil01; Sep 28, 2013 at 01:22 PM.
Thread Starter
ISIS SUCKS FAT CHOAD
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 8,124
Likes: 53
From: Earth, United States
Some do as Daniel has suggested. That option didn't work too well for me. Of course the small 3/8 lines that come with the regular dual valve RX can didn't work for me either.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 12,413
Likes: 502
From: Rio Rancho NM
This is what I did below
Unfortunately you going to have to find an adaptor of some sort that will fit in the hole on the drive side valve cover. Those who use AN fittings will just have a bung welded into the cover. Others will have a nipple of sorts welded in and just clamp the hose onto it.
Some do as Daniel has suggested. That option didn't work too well for me. Of course the small 3/8 lines that come with the regular dual valve RX can didn't work for me either.
Some do as Daniel has suggested. That option didn't work too well for me. Of course the small 3/8 lines that come with the regular dual valve RX can didn't work for me either.
Last edited by Chicago1; Sep 28, 2013 at 03:39 PM.
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Race Director
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 12,413
Likes: 502
From: Rio Rancho NM
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: ohio
I have a question,i am trying to stop my car from looking like a diesel when I stop on the gas pedal..anyone have a drawing showing the right way to hook up a electric smog pump,to the motor, (ls3)aka via the valve covers..I am going to use a hobbs switch to activate the air pump during boost.. just wanted to know the best way to route the plumbing and do I need two check valves and a catch can?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 8,472
Likes: 38
From: Houston TX
St. Jude Donor '11
If you're going to try a make shift vacuum pump you want to close off everything and have one line from the crankcase (lifter valley or valve cover) going to the pump and then to a catch can. You should just run it all the time.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 29,063
Likes: 1,839
From: cookeville tennessee
I have a question,i am trying to stop my car from looking like a diesel when I stop on the gas pedal..anyone have a drawing showing the right way to hook up a electric smog pump,to the motor, (ls3)aka via the valve covers..I am going to use a hobbs switch to activate the air pump during boost.. just wanted to know the best way to route the plumbing and do I need two check valves and a catch can?
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: ohio
I have a vented catch can on valley cover with a check valve towards the can,so as not to blow into can engine oil..while in boost..and I assume that the vented can while not in boost allows air to go into motor?
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: ohio
yes I have a electric one.plus its a street car I don't want a belt driven one to run all the time,I would rather keep air on car. l
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 8,472
Likes: 38
From: Houston TX
St. Jude Donor '11
I was reading someplace I think on the turbo buick site I could use a hobbs switch to make it come on only when boosted. I have a used smog pump ,put in a 10AN fitting on front of passenger side valve cover,in the fill tube,bassically I drilled and tapped the lower part so I could install the fitting,then the drivers side I took the 3/8 port off drilled and tapped it as well. so I have the inlet going to drivers side,blowing in,the outlet is passenger side.(going back to pump)
I have a vented catch can on valley cover with a check valve towards the can,so as not to blow into can engine oil..while in boost..and I assume that the vented can while not in boost allows air to go into motor?
I have a vented catch can on valley cover with a check valve towards the can,so as not to blow into can engine oil..while in boost..and I assume that the vented can while not in boost allows air to go into motor?
You'll never pull a vacuum that way. No inlet, just suck on the sealed crankcase, venting to a catch can, all the time. If you're not trying to pull a vacuum and just use the motor to coax the CC pressure out I think you'd be better off just running large tubes off the valve covers.
PS: Not sure how long one of those pumps will last with oil mist going through it but worth a shot.
Thread Starter
ISIS SUCKS FAT CHOAD
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 8,124
Likes: 53
From: Earth, United States
I would think there is some kinda mathematical formula that X bore at X ring gap under X amount of boost would produce X amount of CFM needing X size of hose for proper venting. Is there such an equation? I am no mathematician. I go off what works and then go 1 size bigger. lol
So passive yet so direct Kris!!
