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Seriously though, this is why I don't understand the time these so called "speed shops" take. If I can get this stuff done by myself in my garage at home on jackstands. What takes these big operations with lifts and all the toys employing "the best in the business" so long? I can engineer and fabricate a turbo setup from scratch faster than some of these big shops can bolt one on.
All in good fun. Hope you do get your car back soon. Or some numbers at least
Definitely bro. I dont take nothing on here personal. it would take a lot for that to happen and those things it would take definitely wouldnt be related to cars. We could be joking in one thread and seriously debating or butting heads in another but as far as taking anything thats said personal or getting butt hurt, I take it all with a grain of salt. people that dont can go screw themselves. on that note, Charly has been contacting me daily with progress. He told me yesterday that he is going to try his best to have the car running this week. Its him and Austin physically doing the work on the car now. The other guy Curtis no longer works at RPM.
Seriously though, this is why I don't understand the time these so called "speed shops" take. If I can get this stuff done by myself in my garage at home on jackstands. What takes these big operations with lifts and all the toys employing "the best in the business" so long? I can engineer and fabricate a turbo setup from scratch faster than some of these big shops can bolt one on.
A plain engine swap shouldn't take a shop long to do. Profit margin shrinks fast when doing custom work and troubleshooting. Most shops need to pay rent and put food on the table so they cant put all their eggs in one basket. They also can't be turning down good paying jobs. If you don't do your own wrenching and you know a good shop and trust them your best bet usually is to just wait.
Everything is unhooked and its ready to be yanked. I just have to drop the subframe. My hoist didn't reach the middle of the engine bay so I had to extend it by drilling a new position hole(I hope it holds!). Even so I have to have it all but touching my fender to reach. I'm waiting until I have a buddy here to help to reduce the chance I mess up my fender or tear up my input shaft getting it pulled out.
I wouldn't worry about the input shaft. You would be having to try real real hard to hurt that.. The slave cylinder however is VERY easy to crack if you get much out of alignment when separating the engine. Make sure you keep that sucker straight!
I had a standard hoist that reached when coming from the side of the car. Did you try that?
Sorry to hear about your misfortune. If you want any information on a 390 build, let me know. I have one in my car and it has been running great for almost 1500 miles now.
yep you can attack it from the side of the car with a standard hoist. and the cradle always has to at least get lowered a bit with the batwing oil pan or that engine isnt coming out.
I have to go from the side, its a shorter reach than the front even if I had the bumper off. I think the center of the engine to the side of the fender is like 34", the front frame bar is a bit over 36".
My plan is to support the engine and drop the subframe off of it. I'll put jackstands 3-4" under the subframe so it only drops that far. I have the tunnel plate reinstalled to support the torque tube.
I'm really only 20 minutes from having the engine swinging. But I got that far the other night(after working all night before tackling the car) and was too tired to wrestle with it. So I decided to leave it and attack it another day when I have more energy to take my time and not break stuff.
I keep telling the wife how much easier this would be with a 2 post lift..... kinda hard to argue that point when I'm about to drop $4k on a new shortblock though
Originally Posted by MVP'S ZO6
GAWWWWDD did you drive that thing through the woods?
Cant wait to see when shes back together.
LOL Thats a 40k mile Florida motor.
Last edited by MawneeC5; Dec 14, 2013 at 06:35 PM.
I have to go from the side, its a shorter reach than the front even if I had the bumper off. I think the center of the engine to the side of the fender is like 34", the front frame bar is a bit over 36".
My plan is to support the engine and drop the subframe off of it. I'll put jackstands 3-4" under the subframe so it only drops that far. I have the tunnel plate reinstalled to support the torque tube.
I'm really only 20 minutes from having the engine swinging. But I got that far the other night(after working all night before tackling the car) and was too tired to wrestle with it. So I decided to leave it and attack it another day when I have more energy to take my time and not break stuff.
I keep telling the wife how much easier this would be with a 2 post lift..... kinda hard to argue that point when I'm about to drop $4k on a new shortblock though
LOL Thats a 40k mile Florida motor.
Right!! These women, they just don't understand.
sounds like you have a good plan!
Damn, 40K miles of Florida driving does that? At lease she will be clean when it's done.
Funny with that tuners help I mentioned in my new post I ended up sucking a washer into my engine so he could jump the hell out of a froze engine until a rod snapped right through the block. I was trying to make my own air bridge and didn't lock down a support bolt that was centered. Hit the boost on the way to the tuner and the air bridge puffed up and the washer went in. It ran, but, I could hear it clanking and I found out later it didn't hurt the valve. A big fender washer just sucked right in, and popped up and gently seized the motor at low RPMs so THAT tuner could jump it and argue with me about that fact that the motor wasn't turning. It may have moved 3/16 of an inch before it went. ($10K+!)
Last edited by johnglenntwo; Dec 14, 2013 at 07:23 PM.
Something keeps bothering me. Why cylinders 4 and 6? I pulled the drivers side plugs first expecting trusty old 7 or 5 to be dead. I was suprised when it turned out to be the center pistons on the side that my manifold sits. Is it my manifold design? Or maybe the overlap of my 228R cam. Perhaps a combination of the two?
I'm removing the cam from the equation when I put it back together. Just paid for an A&A stage 3 blower cam to the replace the 228r cam. Its 228/236 588/602 116. So its a little bigger on the exhaust side, but the higher LSA eliminates the overlap I had with the 112.
Something keeps bothering me. Why cylinders 4 and 6? I pulled the drivers side plugs first expecting trusty old 7 or 5 to be dead. I was suprised when it turned out to be the center pistons on the side that my manifold sits. Is it my manifold design? Or maybe the overlap of my 228R cam. Perhaps a combination of the two?
7 is more common, but I don't believe it's always the case.
With respect to the manifold setup, I do believe bank 2 of cylinders will always be doing more work for this setup. The wastegate is only relieving pressure from bank 1 by venting from the crossover, leaving more of the pre-turbo pressure under load to be coming from bank 2. If the wastgate was on the elbow right before the turbo flange, they would be more equally balanced. I really don't think there would have been an issue though without the tuning goof.