I agree that they should all be checked but there does seem to be a trend, I don't hear of guys having many troubles with a&a kits
ECS blower build
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From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
That's what I was thinking too.. I bought a bunch of washers, starter shims and body shims earlier that go down to like 1/64" I think.. SO, hopefully one of those will work out ok
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From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
Thanks for the input guys, tomorrow I am going to recalibrate the laser alignment tool according to Brets thread. Then I will recheck alignment, remove a spacer and check blower to crank.
@schpenxel my understanding of shimming is just using thin washers in the correct location to push (if necessary). Then again that's just a guess because I never had to deal with blower alignments before this
@schpenxel my understanding of shimming is just using thin washers in the correct location to push (if necessary). Then again that's just a guess because I never had to deal with blower alignments before this
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,823
Likes: 43
From: East Aurora NY
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,823
Likes: 43
From: East Aurora NY
I took some time away from work today to align the gates tool to about
3 ft. Using a glass top (level and true according my tools) table, I
placed the tool along the level and used another level to mark the
laser position up close. Then I moved the level back ~3ft and
corrected the laser to match. Hope this is right as it's annoying as
hell to align.
Now to the results
Alt to PS - Top of 2nd rib with a little down valley between 1st/2nd rib
Alt to Crank - Same as Alt to PS
PS to Crank - Top of 2nd (dead on)
Blower to Crank - Top of 1st rib (dead on)
Seems like I need to shim my blow out more. What size shim equals 1 rib?
3 ft. Using a glass top (level and true according my tools) table, I
placed the tool along the level and used another level to mark the
laser position up close. Then I moved the level back ~3ft and
corrected the laser to match. Hope this is right as it's annoying as
hell to align.
Now to the results
Alt to PS - Top of 2nd rib with a little down valley between 1st/2nd rib
Alt to Crank - Same as Alt to PS
PS to Crank - Top of 2nd (dead on)
Blower to Crank - Top of 1st rib (dead on)
Seems like I need to shim my blow out more. What size shim equals 1 rib?
Last edited by nullpointer; Jan 3, 2016 at 06:53 PM.
Race Director
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 16,667
Likes: 1,209
From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
I took some time away from work today to align the gates tool to about
3 ft. Using a glass top (level and true according my tools) table, I
placed the tool along the level and used another level to mark the
laser position up close. Then I moved the level back ~3ft and
corrected the laser to match. Hope this is right as it's annoying as
hell to align.
Now to the results
Alt to PS - Top of 2nd rib with a little down valley between 1st/2nd rib
Alt to Crank - Same as Alt to PS
PS to Crank - Top of 2nd (dead on)
Blower to Crank - Top of 1st rib (dead on)
Seems like I need to shim my blow out more. What size shim equals 1 rib?
3 ft. Using a glass top (level and true according my tools) table, I
placed the tool along the level and used another level to mark the
laser position up close. Then I moved the level back ~3ft and
corrected the laser to match. Hope this is right as it's annoying as
hell to align.
Now to the results
Alt to PS - Top of 2nd rib with a little down valley between 1st/2nd rib
Alt to Crank - Same as Alt to PS
PS to Crank - Top of 2nd (dead on)
Blower to Crank - Top of 1st rib (dead on)
Seems like I need to shim my blow out more. What size shim equals 1 rib?
Which way does the pulley need to go? Towards front of car or towards rear of car?
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,823
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From: East Aurora NY
It would seem that the blower would have to come towards the rear of the car as its hitting 1 rib too much towards the front of the car. Sounds like the pulley needs a shim??
Race Director
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From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
One thing I'd be careful of is I don't remember the bolt that holds the pulley on having a whole lot of threads engaged, even with the original size spacer.. so I'd be careful to make sure there's enough meat there to hold the pulley on with the pulley shimmed out a little bit (if you do increase the spacer size that is)
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: East Aurora NY
That's where I was going with it.. adjusting the spacer on the pulley itself instead of trying to move the whole head unit around.
One thing I'd be careful of is I don't remember the bolt that holds the pulley on having a whole lot of threads engaged, even with the original size spacer.. so I'd be careful to make sure there's enough meat there to hold the pulley on with the pulley shimmed out a little bit (if you do increase the spacer size that is)
One thing I'd be careful of is I don't remember the bolt that holds the pulley on having a whole lot of threads engaged, even with the original size spacer.. so I'd be careful to make sure there's enough meat there to hold the pulley on with the pulley shimmed out a little bit (if you do increase the spacer size that is)
Race Director
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 16,667
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From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
I adjusted the angle on my tensioner so that the belt was as close to the center of the tensioner as I could get it (belt was still was towards the rear of it though), so I'm not sure if that was a good or bad idea. I basically leaned the part of the tensioner that touches belt as far towards the engine as I could get it
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,823
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From: East Aurora NY
Completed a few smaller tasks today, going to work more tomorrow.
I drilled the intake for the ECS IAT relocation kit, 5/8" in case anyone finds this thread and needs the info. Before I installed the grommet and pushed in the IAT sensor I was worried about it leaking, it was very tough to get the sensor installed. I cannot even spin it in the grommet so this should work nicely.
After that I moved to cutting the MAF pigtail out. Heat shrinking the ends of the 3 wires that I didn't need. I soldered the pigtail on and heat shrinked the connection. Then wrapped it all in painless performance shielding I had laying around. Looks factory.
Next up was to install the restrictor plate
Test fit intake
I did notice the plastic intake bridge did not sit flush with the blower inlet, its impossible to with the filter in place.
This normal?
Also I received my Canbus Triple, more car hacking fun!
I drilled the intake for the ECS IAT relocation kit, 5/8" in case anyone finds this thread and needs the info. Before I installed the grommet and pushed in the IAT sensor I was worried about it leaking, it was very tough to get the sensor installed. I cannot even spin it in the grommet so this should work nicely.
After that I moved to cutting the MAF pigtail out. Heat shrinking the ends of the 3 wires that I didn't need. I soldered the pigtail on and heat shrinked the connection. Then wrapped it all in painless performance shielding I had laying around. Looks factory.
Next up was to install the restrictor plate
Test fit intake
I did notice the plastic intake bridge did not sit flush with the blower inlet, its impossible to with the filter in place.
This normal?
Also I received my Canbus Triple, more car hacking fun!
Last edited by nullpointer; Jan 3, 2016 at 06:56 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,823
Likes: 43
From: East Aurora NY
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,823
Likes: 43
From: East Aurora NY
Worked on some non exciting stuff today
Intake manifold with new brake booster hose and 2 bar map installed
Test fit the intake tube from intercooler to intake manifold
Then moved on to the headers
Passenger side went in very easy (as normal), driver side was a huge PITA. The starter wires and starter always make it difficult. We won and got them installed along with the starter (inc. wiring). I never wrapped the wires as there is enough room around the headers but this time I think I will wrap them.
Used Remflex gaskets with Alper Motorsports header studs to stop the headers from leaking.
This week I plan on installing the holley fuel rails and the rest of the exhaust. I have to figure out how to tee all the lines together so I don't have to run the fuel lines between the rails behind the intake, while utilizing the stock feed line.
Intake manifold with new brake booster hose and 2 bar map installed
Test fit the intake tube from intercooler to intake manifold
Then moved on to the headers
Passenger side went in very easy (as normal), driver side was a huge PITA. The starter wires and starter always make it difficult. We won and got them installed along with the starter (inc. wiring). I never wrapped the wires as there is enough room around the headers but this time I think I will wrap them.
Used Remflex gaskets with Alper Motorsports header studs to stop the headers from leaking.
This week I plan on installing the holley fuel rails and the rest of the exhaust. I have to figure out how to tee all the lines together so I don't have to run the fuel lines between the rails behind the intake, while utilizing the stock feed line.
Last edited by nullpointer; Jan 3, 2016 at 06:58 PM.
Race Director
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 16,667
Likes: 1,209
From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
Worked on some non exciting stuff today
Intake manifold with new brake booster hose and 2 bar map installed
Test fit the intake tube from intercooler to intake manifold
Then moved on to the headers
Passenger side went in very easy (as normal), driver side was a huge PITA. The starter wires and starter always make it difficult. We won and got them installed along with the starter (inc. wiring). I never wrapped the wires as there is enough room around the headers but this time I think I will wrap them.
Used Remflex gaskets with Alper Motorsports header studs to stop the headers from leaking.
This week I plan on installing the holley fuel rails and the rest of the exhaust. I have to figure out how to tee all the lines together so I don't have to run the fuel lines between the rails behind the intake, while utilizing the stock feed line.
Intake manifold with new brake booster hose and 2 bar map installed
Test fit the intake tube from intercooler to intake manifold
Then moved on to the headers
Passenger side went in very easy (as normal), driver side was a huge PITA. The starter wires and starter always make it difficult. We won and got them installed along with the starter (inc. wiring). I never wrapped the wires as there is enough room around the headers but this time I think I will wrap them.
Used Remflex gaskets with Alper Motorsports header studs to stop the headers from leaking.
This week I plan on installing the holley fuel rails and the rest of the exhaust. I have to figure out how to tee all the lines together so I don't have to run the fuel lines between the rails behind the intake, while utilizing the stock feed line.
Have you had problems with headers leaking in the past?
On the fuel rails.. which kit did you get? There is one with a few AN fittings and such with it, then there's another with basically just the rails
If you're using the stock line, I would assume the best way is to use a 3/8" OEM to AN converter, then split that to two lines, then run one line to each rail (assuming you don't want to connect the rails)
But, I've never assembled one, so I'm only guessing based on the research I've done so far. I am planning on using Holley rails though. May build a fuel system for mine soon
Last edited by schpenxel; Feb 8, 2015 at 07:51 PM.