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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 05:31 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by 4DRUSH
I installed a complete fuel system using the Fragola PTFE hose & fittings, really nice product IMO
Good to hear.. I switched my "wish list" over to all Fragola PTFE stuff. I need to take a closer look at the stock system this weekend to make sure what I'm thinking will actually work.

If I do end up doing it and it works I'll post a full parts list
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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 05:37 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by nullpointer
Any idea if I will smell gas since the holley kit doesn't have PTFE lines?
Not 100% sure.. I know that it's a common complaint when using non PTFE lines, but I'm not sure if it's only an issue for people making long runs or what.

I'd probably try what you have just to see first.. I don't see how it would hurt anything, but I suppose it may waste some of your time in having to redo it if it does indeed smell
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Old Feb 12, 2015 | 02:33 PM
  #123  
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I'm going to try the lines in the kit and change them next winter if they smell, too much dough into this build at this point

That being said, my beefy mighty mouse pcv can with -10an oil cap fitting arrived.






This weekend I am aiming to:
  1. Install fuel rails + lines
  2. Plan out catch can location, order parts
  3. Install x-pipe + axle back
  4. Top off fluids

Still waiting on a base tune from Matt@FSP...I know hes swamped and its going to be -8 out this weekend so starting it probably wont happen. Slowly but surely, next up in the ECS fuel kit which seems like an easy install.

Last edited by nullpointer; Jan 3, 2016 at 07:02 PM.
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Old Feb 12, 2015 | 06:40 PM
  #124  
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I can tell you that I installed my ECS stage 1 fuel system and that only has a few feet of lines involved. It smelled terrible in my garage. ECS has since switched to shipping Teflon lines and they stepped up and sent me some new ones.
I would just do the PTFE now because you will end up switching them later and doing the work twice.
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Old Feb 12, 2015 | 06:53 PM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by nullpointer
I'm going to try the lines in the kit and change them next winter if they smell, too much dough into this build at this point

That being said, my beefy mighty mouse pcv can with -10an oil cap fitting arrived.







This weekend I am aiming to:
  1. Install fuel rails + lines
  2. Plan out catch can location, order parts
  3. Install x-pipe + axle back
  4. Top off fluids

Still waiting on a base tune from Matt@FSP...I know hes swamped and its going to be -8 out this weekend so starting it probably wont happen. Slowly but surely, next up in the ECS fuel kit which seems like an easy install.
I like that catch can setup.. I'm def. interested in how it works out, hopefully we'll get to see a few pics. The air oil separator I found for what I hoped was a good deal ended up being too big to fit anywhere except where the battery is.. so that idea is out for the moment. It's a nice piece, just too big for my application.

Anyways.. tune wise leave the stock injectors in and you should be able to start the car. If they provide the same 60# (at 3 bar) injectors on the C5 kit that they do on the C6 kit I can give you data that's close enough to get it to start with those in.

You'll need to get basics right for IAT curve (may be same as stock? ECS can tell you though for sure) & disable MAF if you aren't using it and it should still start.

The base tunes I've seen aren't a lot more than that regardless..

Oh yeah.. and feel you on the temp! I was planning on installing my new clutch this weekend but now I'm wondering if that's a good idea. Saturday looks decent.. Sunday the high is 30 (no garage, working outside..)

Last edited by schpenxel; Feb 12, 2015 at 07:00 PM.
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Old Feb 12, 2015 | 10:40 PM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
I like that catch can setup.. I'm def. interested in how it works out, hopefully we'll get to see a few pics. The air oil separator I found for what I hoped was a good deal ended up being too big to fit anywhere except where the battery is.. so that idea is out for the moment. It's a nice piece, just too big for my application.
not sure if the c6 is similar in this regard but have you tried under the driver side headlight?... I have my can under there and bolted to the side of the radiator cradle, I made the bracket for it and it worked perfect

Attachment 48190805

Last edited by StingrayRebel; Apr 1, 2026 at 05:58 PM.
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Old Feb 13, 2015 | 08:41 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by neutron82
not sure if the c6 is similar in this regard but have you tried under the driver side headlight?... I have my can under there and bolted to the side of the radiator cradle, I made the bracket for it and it worked perfect
That may be the ticket.. I'll take a look at it this weekend, but no, I had not thought of putting it there. I was trying to find somewhere in the engine bay but there's just not much room with the head unit in there
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Old Feb 13, 2015 | 04:06 PM
  #128  
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I'm going to use the lines ECS sent me and if need be switch them out later.

@schpenxel - On the Tial Q the bolt that holds the vacuum nipple down, how many inch lbs did you torque too? Tial told me 150 in/lbs but that seems excessive.
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Old Feb 13, 2015 | 04:10 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by nullpointer
@schpenxel - On the Tial Q the bolt that holds the vacuum nipple down, how many inch lbs did you torque too? Tial told me 150 in/lbs but that seems excessive.
I didn't use a torque wrench, so I'm not 100% sure. With the way the o-ring goes on the bypass valve, and the way the clamp is V shaped, I really don't think it'd need anything crazy to seal. I just tightened it by hand with a 1/4" ratchet until it felt good and tight. I was afraid I was going to strip it if I went much tighter. I loosened the bolt up later to try to move the bypass valve (can't remember why), and it was really stuck on there.. I never did get it to move, so I assumed that must have been plenty of force.
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 11:54 AM
  #130  
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I went out to the garage to take a look at the blower intake. It clears the radiator so I didn't need to modify that. However the filter element makes contact with AC condenser and that is what causes the intake not to mount flush on the blower inlet. There is nothing I can do to change this, so I might pick up a small silicon coupler and two proper clamps. Don't know yet, easy fix if it does come off.

It's going to be near zero today and a high of -1 tomorrow. Not sure if I will do much in the garage...



Edit: Fittings arrived, time for mock up


Once I get the fuel pressure gauge / sensor I will have to find a place to add it, I have a few ideas but that's of minimal concern as I didn't even start the car yet.

Last edited by nullpointer; Jan 3, 2016 at 07:02 PM.
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 10:31 PM
  #131  
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It is crazy cold here it's a good thing I have snowmobiles to play with in the winter. I haven't even fired up the heater in garage this week it's been so cold.


Originally Posted by nullpointer
I went out to the garage to take a look at the blower intake. It clears the radiator so I didn't need to modify that. However the filter element makes contact with AC condenser and that is what causes the intake not to mount flush on the blower inlet. There is nothing I can do to change this, so I might pick up a small silicon coupler and two proper clamps. Don't know yet, easy fix if it does come off.

It's going to be near zero today and a high of -1 tomorrow. Not sure if I will do much in the garage...



Edit: Fittings arrived, time for mock up



Once I get the fuel pressure gauge / sensor I will have to find a place to add it, I have a few ideas but that's of minimal concern as I didn't even start the car yet.
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 11:25 AM
  #132  
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I went ahead and installed the x-pipe and pipes back to the mufflers last night. Leaving the mufflers off for the first start up as I still have to install the ECS fuel kit and don't want to remove them again. Also I found out that the MightyMouse oil cap + 90* -10 AN fitting would never clear my hood. Going to try to source a -10 AN bulk head fitting locally, drill and install the valve cover.

Then I found my oil dipstick tube was rusted so I cleaned that off and painted it. Saturday my new pulley shim will be ready in case the stock one doesn't line up after following ECS's instructions. I only need to make two fuel lines and then we are ready to rock.

Last edited by nullpointer; Feb 18, 2015 at 11:34 AM.
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 11:32 AM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by nullpointer
I went ahead and installed the x-pipe and pipes back to the mufflers last night. Leaving the mufflers off for the first start up as I still have to install the ECS fuel kit and don't want to remove them again. Also I found out that the MightyMouse oil cap + 90* -10 AN fitting would never clear my hood. Going to try to source a -10 AN bulk head fitting locally, drill and install the valley cover.

Then I found my oil dipstick tube was rusted so I cleaned that off and painted it. Saturday my new pulley shim will be ready in case the stock one doesn't line up after following ECS's instructions. I only need to make two fuel lines and then we are ready to rock.
Getting close

Good to know on the AN fitting oil cap. That is what I was going to try, so I guess not now. Guess I'll look for a bulkhead fitting also. I wonder if you need any kind of baffle or anything to stop from sucking oil through it if you do it that way?

I would like to weld a nice AN fitting on, but I'm not capable of welding it, so bulkhead fitting is probably second best. I may damn near JB weld the threads on mine though to make sure it doesn't come apart and destroy something!
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 11:36 AM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
Getting close

Good to know on the AN fitting oil cap. That is what I was going to try, so I guess not now. Guess I'll look for a bulkhead fitting also. I wonder if you need any kind of baffle or anything to stop from sucking oil through it if you do it that way?

I would like to weld a nice AN fitting on, but I'm not capable of welding it, so bulkhead fitting is probably second best. I may damn near JB weld the threads on mine though to make sure it doesn't come apart and destroy something!
My mistake for putting "valley cover" when I meant valve cover. A few other guys with bigger builds (Unreal for one) use a nipple welded on or (realcanuk) uses the bulk head fitting. Haven't heard much about sucking out oil but thats all I know about it
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 11:36 AM
  #135  
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Not sure.. just a guess. What if you remove the oil fill tube from the valve cover and then put the fitting? I don't remember really, but the AN cap he sent might fit direction on the cover.
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 11:38 AM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
Getting close

Good to know on the AN fitting oil cap. That is what I was going to try, so I guess not now. Guess I'll look for a bulkhead fitting also. I wonder if you need any kind of baffle or anything to stop from sucking oil through it if you do it that way?

I would like to weld a nice AN fitting on, but I'm not capable of welding it, so bulkhead fitting is probably second best. I may damn near JB weld the threads on mine though to make sure it doesn't come apart and destroy something!
You definitely need a baffle... the valve cover should already have one so put the fitting where the baffle will work.
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 11:42 AM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by realcanuk
You definitely need a baffle... the valve cover should already have one so put the fitting where the baffle will work.
Phew good to know, thanks
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 11:44 AM
  #138  
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Look at the pic of the fitting installed on his site. Pretty sure it should work no problem.

http://www.mightymousesolutions.com/...l--an-adapters
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 11:45 AM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by realcanuk
Look at the pic of the fitting installed on his site. Pretty sure it should work no problem.

http://www.mightymousesolutions.com/...l--an-adapters
Wow totally missed that one. Thanks a lot!
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 11:46 AM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by nullpointer
Wow totally missed that one. Thanks a lot!
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