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call innovators and they can get you one... I actually have an extra one but it's for a 10 rib balancer, not sure if that will work with your 8 rib or not... my balancer bolt also has a thick washer, you might want to make sure you have that as well
Your 10-rib balancer bolt will work. It's the same length.
Nice of you to offer. I thought I had a spare, but I don't.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
Originally Posted by BLOWNBLUEZ06@RKTPerformance
Your 10-rib balancer bolt will work. It's the same length.
Nice of you to offer. I thought I had a spare, but I don't.
I can be nice sometimes... well if you need it just cover the shipping... I probably won't be able to ship it until Tuesday though due to the holidays... or if you're local you can pick it up
do you have the thick washer for your innovators balancer?... their bolts are cheap and are 10.9 grade, I would get the one I know will fit... on the belt just turn it sideways and it should fit fine between the rack and balancer... I'm running 10 rib with no rack spacer and I have enough room to change belts so I can imagine with an 8 rib you will have even more space... personally I don't like the idea of moving the rack forward
Innovators is $15 for the bolt plus $10 for the washer plus $20 to ship. No thanks.
I can be nice sometimes... well if you need it just cover the shipping... I probably won't be able to ship it until Tuesday though due to the holidays... or if you're local you can pick it up
Crap. Already ordered another one last night. Let me see when This other one will be here.
The last few days have been kinda slow, with the holidays and all.
However, I managed to get the Racetronix Firewire and KB BAP hooked up, the meth injection pump mounted and wired up, and gauges mounted in the gauge pod and most of the wiring done for the gauges.
The good news is my new crank bolt got here today, so tomorrow morning I start putting everything back together. I am hoping to have it ready to run by Friday, but new years celebrations and bowl games might get in the way of that.
Remaining tasks:
crank bolt
steering rack back together, including PS cooler and re-install lines
PS/alternator bracket
install S/C head unit
check alignment of pullies
install intake piping, inter-cooler, BOV
vacuum line to BOV
install Wideband
tap hot wire for gauges
run/tap wire for gauge backlight dimmer
once gauges are working, finish pod install to A pillar
install/replace fuel filter
install converted washer fluid/meth reservoir
drill mafless intake, mount nozzle for meth injection
get hp tuners working (issues with new account)
Didnt get to work on it but about 4 hours today. Got the crank bolt in, steering rack back together, alternator and power steering mounted and the supercharger bolted on. also got the serp belt installed.
Remaining tasks:
relocate meth inj pump. I mounted it too far away from the reservoir and now the hose wont reach.
trim radiator for inlet to S/C
install intake piping, inter-cooler, BOV
vacuum line to BOV
install Wideband
tap hot wire for gauges
run/tap wire for gauge backlight dimmer
once gauges are working, finish pod install to A pillar
install/replace fuel filter
install converted washer fluid/meth reservoir
drill mafless intake, mount nozzle for meth injection
Also forgot to mention. looks like its gonna be ridiculously hard to get the S/C discharge down-piping in between the radiator and PS cooler. There is literally no space there and I gotta fit a 3" charge pipe??? and part of the fan harness is in the way.
Im all ears if any of you have any insight.
Last edited by TX Z06 02; Dec 31, 2015 at 12:40 AM.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
remove it or relocate it, I decided to remove mine... also if you ever add a larger diameter front sway bar that gap will get smaller and smash the hose against the cooler even worse
Downpipe wasnt as impossible as I thought. I dropped the PS cooler out of the way and got the piping up in there and installed. Then put the PS cooler back in place. Its tight, but it fits. I left the Cooler slightly loose because tightening it all the way put more force on the piping.
Next issue is that the filter wont fit. Original owner of the S/C kit had this installed somehow. Not sure how. I am gonna try dropping the radiator some more to make it fit. If not I have to buy the dongle from A&A.
Remaining tasks:
Finish install of intake piping, inter-cooler, BOV
install Wideband
tap hot wire for gauges
run/tap wire for gauge backlight dimmer
once gauges are working, finish pod install to A pillar
install/replace fuel filter
drill mafless intake, mount nozzle for meth injection
install start-up tune from BlownBlueZ06
Mechanically, Im nearly complete. Everything is done on the top side and I topped of fluids.
Found an issue with the Innovate Wideband I ordered. The wiring length is too short. Apparently they have 2 kits, one for vehicles (3844) and one for powersports (3845). The vehicle (3844) has 10' OAL of cable. The powersport (3845) has 5.5' of OAL cable. I gotta get the 3844 and not the 3845 or spend $50 on the extension cable.
Remaining tasks:
install Wideband
tap hot wire for gauges
run/tap wire for gauge backlight dimmer
once gauges are working, finish pod install to A pillar
install/replace fuel filter
install start-up tune from BlownBlueZ06
Ordered the longer cable for the wideband. It should be here tuesday/wednesday
Sent my existing tune to Blown Blue Z06 so he can write a startup tune
Remaining tasks:
install Wideband
run/tap wire for gauge backlight dimmer (its tapped, but gauge doesnt dim when i turn lights on)
once gauges are working, finish pod install to A pillar
install/replace fuel filter
install start-up tune from BlownBlueZ06
I'm curious as to why you have your meth nozzle orientated like that? Is the line just too short to route elsewhere?
Yes, line was short. But I did reroute it slightly because i did not like it running across the alternator. I will buy a longer cable at some point and fix it right.
Last edited by TX Z06 02; Jan 2, 2016 at 06:18 PM.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
it does look a little odd, make sure the check valve is in the right direction... it almost looks like the lines are hooked up backwards, the line from the pump to the check valve is shorter than the line from the valve to the nozzle and all the connections are the same so it's easy to get it flopped around
it does look a little odd, make sure the check valve is in the right direction... it almost looks like the lines are hooked up backwards, the line from the pump to the check valve is shorter than the line from the valve to the nozzle and all the connections are the same so it's easy to get it flopped around
Hmm. I will check it. But since it was a used kit the nozzle was already on one end. I never checked the check valve tho.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
if it's in the right direction see if you have any slack in the line from the pump end... the lines from alky control should be long enough to run down the driver side frame rail and cross over near the radiator hose/condenser
if it's in the right direction see if you have any slack in the line from the pump end... the lines from alky control should be long enough to run down the driver side frame rail and cross over near the radiator hose/condenser
You were correct, the check valve was in the wrong direction. Really weird, cause the nozzle was already doped/threaded onto the line.
Anyway, I reversed the line and ran it up the frame rail and straight (almost) across the radiator.
Just waiting on my extended wideband cable and a tune from Bret.
I need to zero/calibrate my gauges (fuel pressure and boost) and wideband. And figure out why the dimmer isn't working on the wideband.
Worked worh Bret this evening and he got it running. Now just need to do some driving around and data logging to dial it in a bit more.
Also filled methanol tank just to see it running out the bottom. The line from the tank to the pump is leaking bad. Will get a new hose for that.
Now I gotta finish up the install. Put the air dam back on, and the cover over the radiator.
And at some point I need to start my clutch and rear diff upgrades. I'm still waiting on the C6 Z06 diff parts, so I will probably do that after I do some driving/data logging.
I spent some time yesterday finishing up the install. I put the hood back on and the air dams and got it ready to drive.
So I try to go for a drive today and the air dams scrape on EVERYTHING. I mean just a high point in the road and they scrape.
By lowering the radiator support to make clearance for the intake to the supercharger, now the air dams are lower to the ground by about 1.75". Its annoying, so much so that I turned around and went home before ever getting out of the neighborhood.
I did not raise the center air dam with the relocation brackets that come with the A&A kit. My air dam wasnt like the ones that are in the instructions, so I just put it back in the stock place. However, it was higher off the ground than the outside air dams, so I thought I might still be ok.
But just to be sure, I took the center air dam off and went back out on the road. The sides still scrape everything, so even if I did raise the center up some, that wouldnt fix the sides.
What did everyone else do? Cut them down? Raise the front end up?
Last edited by TX Z06 02; Jan 10, 2016 at 03:14 PM.
... well if you need it just cover the shipping... I probably won't be able to ship it until Tuesday though due to the holidays... or if you're local you can pick it up
