Yeah, I didn't catch the brand initially. That may very well be. It would be nice it if's dead on straight out of the box. I wouldn't hesitate to verify before making any adjustments though.

 

I've got it all back together and running. And of course, its raining all week, so not able to drive it. Hopefully it clears out later this week.

Here are some pictures:

Belt separating:


Shooting the laser up to the PS Pulley (before):


Shooting up to the PS pulley after correction:


After putting everything back together:



A shot of the cutouts with the DTE rear brace. Had to modify/re-clock the cutouts.


Fitting it on my new (to me) car hauler. And opening the door clears the fenderwells! Room to spare!

 

Make sure you put a turndown on that passenger side cause I've melted a leaf spring right there before and it snapped in layers.

 

Its got one, you just cant see it from the camera angle.

 

Time for another update.

I got everything put back together and after a few tunes and some data sent back and forth to Bret (BlownBlueZ06), we had it running pretty well. I trailered the car to Bret so he could see/feel in person. There were a few things that he didnt like that were causing some issues on the tune with driveability, most importantly, i needed a lighter spring on my BOV. So i got that ordered and its on its way.

As far as running at WOT, HOLY CRAP is all i can say. The MT ET streets cannot hold traction in first. 2nd gear is a rocket and 3rd gear just flat out moves. I am definitely still getting used to the additional power. She is a handful when the tires are struggling to maintain grip.

I also am gonna try to do something about the front scraping/dragging on everything. WIth the radiator support lowered, it gets annoying really fast. I may try to raise the front springs, fab up some other kind of support for the radiator, or a combination of both. The long term answer is a Dewitts radiator, but im not there yet.

However, I do have the car torn apart again on the interior because I got a double din radio and modified radio bezel for my birthday...with 3 gauges.



This is what it should look like when done.

 

Well, that escalated quickly.



I had to remove the entire dash pad to get to the cage support for the stereo/hvac controls. With everything moving down, portions of that mounting cage have to be cut out or modified.

I got the HVAC controls to fit without too much trouble, just locate it further down the cage and drill new holes.

The stereo is going to be a bigger issue. I have no idea how I am going to support it.

Also, when I plugged the OEM1 in and hooked up all the wiring to the stereo, the Pioneer wouldnt turn on. I figured out that there is no 12V to the yellow wire, which is supposed to be constant hot (battery). When I run a jumper over to switched 12V, the stereo powers up and works great. Still trying to figure that one out, but quickly got into bigger issues just mounting everything. Its an easy fix, just run a constant hot wire to the battery, but not sure why its not working since the OEM1 is pretty much plug/play.

 

Getting closer. Still waiting on the brackets to mount the stereo. Everything else is done besides programming the innovate gauges.

<br >

 

That came out really nice

Thanks,Matt

 

Update 05/02:

I had plans to go to the track friday night and the weather screwed that up. Fast Friday was cancelled due to rain. So I will try again this weekend or next. Im also looking to get on the dyno. Kinda hoping BlownBlueZ06 finishes his shop soon and gets his dyno installed.

Here are some updates after finishing (almost) all of my projects:

Dewitts installed, all put back together:





3 gauge double din bezel installed (Shift light still not working after tapping white wire to gauge cluster. Gonna try going to a coil wire):



Ports for USB and Aux cord and cig lighter/USB charger:


I had my exhaust cutouts installed and went for a Sunday drive and Ill be damned if one of the motors didnt come apart. So now the car is back on jacks to fix that. Should be done this evening or tomorrow.

 

So here's some results that show potential, but the reality is that there's still some bugs to work out.

Went to the track and made 1 pass ( Long Story here )

ET sucks but MPH looks promising.




And then went to the dyno yesterday.



This was the same dyno that I made 396 rwhp when I just had LT headers and a tune. It was a bit more tricky this time. At first, it was spinning like crazy on the dyno. It finally was holding traction after the tires warmed up more, the car was cinched down more and the load on the dyno increased. And then the boost was falling off at high rpms. So I tightened the belt until i couldnt tighten anymore (found out my belt is slightly long).

Long story short, the boost finally held (bottom line on the dyno graph), but for some reason power peaked at 5800 rpms. After discussing with Bret, a dyno tune would get it over the hump with the higher load on the dyno, however, the car is street tuned and runs great on the street. I'm not chasing a dyno number so I called it a day.

The potential is there for 630-650. And the MPH from the 1/4 mile run suggests that the power is there as well. Overall, I am very pleased with the results.

 

Nice trap speed. Now you just need to get it out of the hole.

 

I suppose its time for an update long term.

My last post showed a time slip from back in March that looked promising. unfortunately, after 5-6 trips to the track this summer, I never bested that run.

My last time out at the 1/4 mile, the car was falling on its face on the big end. Additionally, I was still having troubles off the line. So i brought the car back home and put it back on jack stands. My problems were as follows:

1. figure out why i wasn't making power
2. figure out why my line lock wasn't holding/why I was pushing through the brakes on a burnout and not getting a sufficient burnout
3. Fix the "groaning" from the rear diff that has happened ever since I rebuilt the rear diff.
4. Fix my sporadic shift light.

Problem #2 was easiest to address: So after some research, I realized that the Fastbird line lock kit I received had Summit solenoid and that it was from a notoriously faulty batch. Summit/fastbird would replace if it was within 90 days. I was almost a year. So I did the best thing and replaced with a Hurst Roll Control kit. Installed it during this time...testing to follow (see below).

Problem #1: When I started disassembling everything, I noticed that a coupler on my boost piping had blown out behind the clamp. I would have never seen it at night when I was at the track, but sure enough, it was leaking. So I started to pressure test my boost piping. WHY DIDNT I DO THIS AFTER INITIAL INSTALL, COULD HAVE SAVED MYSELF LOTS OF TIME/HEARTACHE.

In preparation to pressure test, I had to install a cap on the snout of the supercharger. due to location of radiator, I couldnt fit a cap. Well crap, i guess its time that I cut the radiator support and relocate the radiator mounts to lower the radiator. WHY DIDNT I DO THIS DURING INITIAL INSTALL, COULD HAVE SAVED MYSELF LOTS OF TIME/HEARTACHE (see a theme yet?)

That added about 2 weeks to my repairs. but its done! I ended up moving the cross brace about 4" forward and slightly down.



Now the radiator sits well below the inlet to the supercharger. So why not use the 4" intake that I had sitting around and remove the A&A dongle.









Now its time to pressure up the boost piping again. MUCH BETTER. I actually was able to get to 15 psig and it slowly bled down.



The only leaks I heard were from the meth injection point and the Intake Air temp sensor. Cant do anything about the latter, but I can dope/tape the MI fitting next time i take it all apart. It was such a small leak I'm not gonna worry about it until then.

Problem #1 solved.

Problem #3 is that during slow turns in the driveway, I hear my rear diff groaning. So I added some LSD additive to see if that helps.

Problem #3 TBD

Problem #4 was an issue with my shift light on my dual purpose Innovate motorsports gauge. When i set the shift light at a lower RPM, it would work. But for some reason I never see it work at higher rpm. I set it at 6250 normally. So i re-ran the wiring to see if it helped.

Problem #4 TBD

So Monday I went for the first drive. Holy crap! It ran better than it has ever before. I am sure most of it is due to the cooler air we have right now, but I cant help but think that the 4" intake and the boost leaks fixed are big contributors as well.

I also tested the line lock. I have full locking of the front brakes and definitely no pushing through the brakes on a burnout. Problem #2 solved!

I still had one issue with surging at idle with the A/C off. I sent Bret some data and he responded with a slightly tweaked tune to try. I dumped the tune in yesterday, but didn't start the car.

I get in the car this morning to drive to work. I turn the key on and I don't hear the fuel pump running. I tried to start anyway, but it wouldn't start with no fuel (gauge was reading 4 psig). I have 12v going through the relay to the pump and jumping the relay just causes the fuel pump to click once. It still never runs.

So now I am troubleshooting the fuel pump issues.