Trailer Owner's Experience?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
From: Bakersfield CA
Trailer Owner's Experience?
I'm looking at purchasing an enclosed trailer for my Vette and I have several questions. If you have/had one, I would appreciate your input on: size, make and model, tow vehicle, any must have accessories. I'm concerned about the ability (or lack there off) to enter and exit the car conventionally (not having to crawl through the window) when the car is in the trailer. Also, how tough is it to tie the car down considering the fairly close proximity of the walls, i.e. do you have to be a contortionist to get it done? Any and info is welcome.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 33
From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Greetings
Tow Vehical I would recomend a minum of 3/4 ton.
min size would be 24 foot enclosed. you need the extra space a 28 foot gives you lots of extra space but the more space you have the more junk gets put in too.
YES you will need to be a contorsionest to get out though the car window and attach the hooks under your car to the jacking puck holes. Now if you have a coupe you can remove the top. SOme trailers have escape doors on the left side of the trailer so you can get out,but you still can not open the cars doors. SOme ppl use a winch to pull their car into the trailer.
to tie the car down the t-hook is the best as it attaches in the jacking puck holes. Use an X patterent with the straps. right front t-hook to left front hook on trailer floor and so forth.
Must haves, extra tire rack, cabents for storage, depending on what you are doing, an air compressor is great and LIGHTS, electricity over and above the trailers 12vinside lighting.
Hope this helps a bit.
Tow Vehical I would recomend a minum of 3/4 ton.
min size would be 24 foot enclosed. you need the extra space a 28 foot gives you lots of extra space but the more space you have the more junk gets put in too.
YES you will need to be a contorsionest to get out though the car window and attach the hooks under your car to the jacking puck holes. Now if you have a coupe you can remove the top. SOme trailers have escape doors on the left side of the trailer so you can get out,but you still can not open the cars doors. SOme ppl use a winch to pull their car into the trailer.
to tie the car down the t-hook is the best as it attaches in the jacking puck holes. Use an X patterent with the straps. right front t-hook to left front hook on trailer floor and so forth.
Must haves, extra tire rack, cabents for storage, depending on what you are doing, an air compressor is great and LIGHTS, electricity over and above the trailers 12vinside lighting.
Hope this helps a bit.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 2,159
Likes: 0
From: Calgary Alberta
Cruise-In I Veteran
Truck
2003 GMC Sierra 2500 w/6.0L and 4.10 gears and trailer tow package.
Trailer
20' enclosed Haulmark Thrifty.
At least with the Haulmark trailer the only way to get out of the car even if you have a side man door is through the car window. For me it was not a big deal and the trailer I had did not have a side door.
I always took off my shoes and dropped them at the end of the ramp before I drove the car into the trailer and crawled out the window. I purchased the Window Valet to close the window using the key FOB.
Use the motorhome sometimes.
2003 GMC Sierra 2500 w/6.0L and 4.10 gears and trailer tow package.
Trailer
20' enclosed Haulmark Thrifty.
At least with the Haulmark trailer the only way to get out of the car even if you have a side man door is through the car window. For me it was not a big deal and the trailer I had did not have a side door.
I always took off my shoes and dropped them at the end of the ramp before I drove the car into the trailer and crawled out the window. I purchased the Window Valet to close the window using the key FOB.
Use the motorhome sometimes.
Last edited by WGreen; Jan 27, 2005 at 06:26 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 0
From: Stanwood Michigan
Some great advise already and I will give you my two cents. Minimum of 26'. Had a 20' trailer originally and it was two small to do everything I wanted to do. Tow vehicle should be at least 3/4 if not 1 ton. I have an F250 SD but wish I had gone with the F350 Dually as my new trailer is s 32' v-nose. It is a tag since we pull it behind the Motorhome also. If I didn't have the motorhome and was buying something that big again I would have bought a gooseneck. If you are ordering one then by all means get an escape door on the driver side. I can't tell you how much head ache it saves. If your car is lowered you will still need to build up the floor alittle to open the door but that is easily done with 2x12's. I had etrack run front to rear of the trailer and in the center so I can tie things down everywhere. Never had any issues with it either. If you order the trailer get cabinets in the front. I kept a list of wverything I didn't like and everything I liked about the 20' trailer and ordered the new one with those things I wanted.
Best of luck finding or ordering what you want.
Best of luck finding or ordering what you want.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 11,530
Likes: 0
From: New Bloomfield Pa
Cruise-In VI Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'10
This is a 24' haulmark plenty of room with a F250 V10 and I can run 80 mph all day with it....no problems at all.
The widest you can go is 102" you will be able to get your door open and get out if you are med. to small build if not then through the window is best...I just keep my top down.
As far as where to tie...many people here use the T hooks..... I dont I use axel strap s never had a problem and I can strap the car down in less than 10 minutes.
I also dont cross my straps...did that once on the way back from SEMA the one strap broke and the other pulled the car against the wall and cost me a busted quarter.
Things you should get are a trailer with a dove tail , anti sway bar and load distribution bars.
Basic trailer like this new about $6k up to about $18 k...depends on the options
The widest you can go is 102" you will be able to get your door open and get out if you are med. to small build if not then through the window is best...I just keep my top down.
As far as where to tie...many people here use the T hooks..... I dont I use axel strap s never had a problem and I can strap the car down in less than 10 minutes.
I also dont cross my straps...did that once on the way back from SEMA the one strap broke and the other pulled the car against the wall and cost me a busted quarter.
Things you should get are a trailer with a dove tail , anti sway bar and load distribution bars.
Basic trailer like this new about $6k up to about $18 k...depends on the options
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
From: Bakersfield CA
Originally Posted by WGreen
I purchased the Window Valet to close the window using the key FOB.
And thanks everyone for the input.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,833
Likes: 68
From: Bowling Green KY
A lot of good replies, but they each talk about unique situations and individual opinions. That's OK, but the most important question is:
What do you want to use the trailer for? Race car, show car, etc.
My car is for show only. No need for tires, tool boxes, and all the extra race stuff.
My trailer came from Trailerworld in BG, and was previously owned by the Corvette Museum. They only used it to move cars from the factory to the museum. It is a 20' sloped nose trailer, which lowers the wind resistance. It has an "escape hatch" on the drivers side, and lower wheel wells so I can open the drivers door when my car is on the trailer. I have 7' extended ramps so my car (with an ACI chin spoiler) can be loaded without scraping. I use cross strapped tie downs, attached at the T-hooks. The total weight of car and trailer is about 6,500 lbs. I pull my rig with my '04 Yukon which has a maximum pulling weight of 11,000 lbs.
Hope this helps. Good Luck!
What do you want to use the trailer for? Race car, show car, etc.
My car is for show only. No need for tires, tool boxes, and all the extra race stuff.
My trailer came from Trailerworld in BG, and was previously owned by the Corvette Museum. They only used it to move cars from the factory to the museum. It is a 20' sloped nose trailer, which lowers the wind resistance. It has an "escape hatch" on the drivers side, and lower wheel wells so I can open the drivers door when my car is on the trailer. I have 7' extended ramps so my car (with an ACI chin spoiler) can be loaded without scraping. I use cross strapped tie downs, attached at the T-hooks. The total weight of car and trailer is about 6,500 lbs. I pull my rig with my '04 Yukon which has a maximum pulling weight of 11,000 lbs.
Hope this helps. Good Luck!
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
From: Bakersfield CA
Originally Posted by tblair7500
A lot of good replies, but they each talk about unique situations and individual opinions. That's OK, but the most important question is:
What do you want to use the trailer for? Race car, show car, etc.
My car is for show only. No need for tires, tool boxes, and all the extra race stuff.
My trailer came from Trailerworld in BG, and was previously owned by the Corvette Museum. They only used it to move cars from the factory to the museum. It is a 20' sloped nose trailer, which lowers the wind resistance. It has an "escape hatch" on the drivers side, and lower wheel wells so I can open the drivers door when my car is on the trailer. I have 7' extended ramps so my car (with an ACI chin spoiler) can be loaded without scraping. I use cross strapped tie downs, attached at the T-hooks. The total weight of car and trailer is about 6,500 lbs. I pull my rig with my '04 Yukon which has a maximum pulling weight of 11,000 lbs.
Hope this helps. Good Luck!
What do you want to use the trailer for? Race car, show car, etc.
My car is for show only. No need for tires, tool boxes, and all the extra race stuff.
My trailer came from Trailerworld in BG, and was previously owned by the Corvette Museum. They only used it to move cars from the factory to the museum. It is a 20' sloped nose trailer, which lowers the wind resistance. It has an "escape hatch" on the drivers side, and lower wheel wells so I can open the drivers door when my car is on the trailer. I have 7' extended ramps so my car (with an ACI chin spoiler) can be loaded without scraping. I use cross strapped tie downs, attached at the T-hooks. The total weight of car and trailer is about 6,500 lbs. I pull my rig with my '04 Yukon which has a maximum pulling weight of 11,000 lbs.
Hope this helps. Good Luck!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 2,159
Likes: 0
From: Calgary Alberta
Cruise-In I Veteran
Originally Posted by Amerkin
What is the Window Valet and where did you get it?
And thanks everyone for the input.
And thanks everyone for the input.
http://www.topdowntech.com/documents/easeTheSqueeze.pdf
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 2,159
Likes: 0
From: Calgary Alberta
Cruise-In I Veteran
Originally Posted by Amerkin
What is the Window Valet and where did you get it?
And thanks everyone for the input.
And thanks everyone for the input.
http://www.topdowntech.com
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,070
Likes: 5
From: Charleston South Carolina
The best Corvette setup I've seen was a 24' trailer with an escape door on the driver's side. Graduated ramp-overs built onto the floor to raise the car over the wheelwells and stopping at the front of the car. And 6' extentions built onto the ramp.
With this set up you can drive up without scraping, open the door to get out without hitting anything, tie down easily due to the extra height afforded by the rampovers, and get underneath the vette while it was in the trailer. It was just about perfect. IMHO
With this set up you can drive up without scraping, open the door to get out without hitting anything, tie down easily due to the extra height afforded by the rampovers, and get underneath the vette while it was in the trailer. It was just about perfect. IMHO
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,437
Likes: 0
From: UNDER THE HOOD
Originally Posted by TedDBere
The best Corvette setup I've seen was a 24' trailer with an escape door on the driver's side. Graduated ramp-overs built onto the floor to raise the car over the wheelwells and stopping at the front of the car. And 6' extentions built onto the ramp.
With this set up you can drive up without scraping, open the door to get out without hitting anything, tie down easily due to the extra height afforded by the rampovers, and get underneath the vette while it was in the trailer. It was just about perfect. IMHO
With this set up you can drive up without scraping, open the door to get out without hitting anything, tie down easily due to the extra height afforded by the rampovers, and get underneath the vette while it was in the trailer. It was just about perfect. IMHO
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,833
Likes: 68
From: Bowling Green KY
Originally Posted by Amerkin
I have a ZO6 that I drag race and occasionally take to open track days for road racing. A few questions: with the 20ft., how tough is it to tie down in the front i.e. close proximity of the walls? I have people telling me to buy a larger than minimum necessary just to give yourself more room to easily get under the car. What is the heigth of the fender to the floor on your trailer? Is your escape door over the fenders? Is it a Trailerworld brand? Thanks for your time.
It is no problem tying down front or rear. The front tie down points are accessible from the standard door (right side of car) and the "escape door" (driver's side). I hook the rear tie downs to the car and drag them into the trailer as I load the car, no big deal. Yes, the escape door is above the side fenders, but I put down a couple of 2 x 12s to give me a little extra room. All the dimensions are available on their website. There is plenty of room in the front of the trailer for tires, that is where I keep the trailer spare tire.
Good luck.
Uber Waxer
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 8,651
Likes: 5
From: Hanover MD
Cruise-In 8-9-10-11 Veteran
CI 9, 10 & 11 Car Show Winner
St. Jude Donor '08-'10
i am thinking of getting one also. i just plan on going to shows, so i dont need to haul a bunch of other stuff. but im scared my escalade esv (suburban sized) will have problems, its rated to tow 7800 lbs. i also have a 87 gn that i am going to be using this for.
i saw 1 post of someone using a 1500 to pull one, and the escalade has the power, but will the tranny and awd hold up?
i saw 1 post of someone using a 1500 to pull one, and the escalade has the power, but will the tranny and awd hold up?
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,833
Likes: 68
From: Bowling Green KY
Originally Posted by EVIL_C5
i am thinking of getting one also. i just plan on going to shows, so i dont need to haul a bunch of other stuff. but im scared my escalade esv (suburban sized) will have problems, its rated to tow 7800 lbs. i also have a 87 gn that i am going to be using this for.
i saw 1 post of someone using a 1500 to pull one, and the escalade has the power, but will the tranny and awd hold up?
i saw 1 post of someone using a 1500 to pull one, and the escalade has the power, but will the tranny and awd hold up?
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 28,753
Likes: 9
From: San Jose/Bear Valley CA
CA Events Coordinator
I have a 31" triple axle Pace GT. I pull it with a 1 ton Dually 4x4 with Turbo Diesel and 5 speed allison trans. Lots of room for the car, tools, golf cart, etc, etc... My best advice to you is to get more truck and trailer than you need as you will eventually find more stuff to fill it up.
I own my truck and trailer and have towed it all over the state... just get the best trailer you can get... use it and enjoy it.
OH, and if you are worried about how to get in and out of it.. just use a winch to bring it in and out.
VR
I own my truck and trailer and have towed it all over the state... just get the best trailer you can get... use it and enjoy it.
OH, and if you are worried about how to get in and out of it.. just use a winch to bring it in and out. VR
Uber Waxer
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 8,651
Likes: 5
From: Hanover MD
Cruise-In 8-9-10-11 Veteran
CI 9, 10 & 11 Car Show Winner
St. Jude Donor '08-'10
Originally Posted by tblair7500
I think the Escalade will be a stretch, if it is only rated for 7800 lbs, but the Corvette at approx. 3100 and a 20' trailer at about 3500 lbs is still only 6600 lbs. total. Probably too close for comfort if you plan on hauling it much, but if you have the trailering package and heavy duty transmission (3.73s), then you're probably OK for short hauls.
it does have the trailer package on it and 3.73's. the engine has plenty of power since its got the 6.0 in it. the vette might weigh 3100, but a gn is probably 3500-3600, and i plan on pulling to bg and other far off places if i get one.
guess im screwed!
