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The C6 Z51 does come with an oil cooler as well. Yes GM makes an oil cooler for the C5. It is called the T1 oil cooler kit. GM also has a trasmission cooler kit as well.
The other option and very poplur is using an intigrated radiator/oil cooler combination from DRM.
The bigger quesiton remains do you need an oil cooler? If you are seeing consistant oil temps above 260* F then yes. The oil can take those temps but the engine inturnal parts can not.
The reason I ask is, on a hot summer day in traffic the car gets HOT! Iv pushed the 260 mark a few times and had to pull over. My car is slammed so I know this is the major reason. Who or what is DRM? Do they make the best package? Also what is the little radiator that is on the passenger side under the idler pulley?
Lot's of people sell radiators with integrated oil coolers. I believe they're all the same radiators, just rebadged Ron Davis radiators. Either way, they're all good.
The little radiator under the idler pulley, which I'm sure you meant "tensioner", is the power steering cooler....that means you have the Z51 package.
If you want lower temps, I don't recommend a thermostat swap, but rather I recommend reprogramming your fans to turn on earlier. For maximum cooling, and good performance, do all this:
1. reprogram fans
2. install 180° thermostat
3. install Ron Davis (LG/DRM) radiator with integral oil cooler
4. run an extra quart of oil
5. install a vented hood (Motor City or ACP C5R hood)
6. use Amsoil or Redline motor oil
7. use some kind of water wetter in the coolant
8. run only distilled water in your cooling system...no anti-freeze, but add anti-freeze back in if there's any chance of freezing temps
If you're really crazy, install water misters too.
Last edited by leaftye; Mar 22, 2005 at 08:44 PM.
Reason: Added more...
Lot's of people sell radiators with integrated oil coolers. I believe they're all the same radiators, just rebadged Ron Davis radiators. Either way, they're all good.
The little radiator under the idler pulley, which I'm sure you meant "tensioner", is the power steering cooler....that means you have the Z51 package.
If you want lower temps, I don't recommend a thermostat swap, but rather I recommend reprogramming your fans to turn on earlier. For maximum cooling, and good performance, do all this:
1. reprogram fans
2. install 180° thermostat
3. install Ron Davis (LG/DRM) radiator with integral oil cooler
4. run an extra quart of oil
5. install a vented hood (Motor City or ACP C5R hood)
6. use Amsoil or Redline motor oil
7. use some kind of water wetter in the coolant
8. run only distilled water in your cooling system...no anti-freeze, but add anti-freeze back in if there's any chance of freezing temps
If you're really crazy, install water misters too.
The cars been tuned idealy for a 160 thermo which is going on very soon. So your saying run 7 1/2 quarts of oil?
7 1/2 is recommended for racing, and I'm sure it's fine for the street as well. Extra oil helps to increase cooling capacity. 160 thermo is too cool IMHO. 180 is just fine.
7 1/2 is recommended for racing, and I'm sure it's fine for the street as well. Extra oil helps to increase cooling capacity. 160 thermo is too cool IMHO. 180 is just fine.
`160 T-stat is way too cold. 180 or 185t-stat is much better.
Extra 1/2 qt to 1 qt helps even more with cooling.
Now do you really need all this cooling?? The ideal engine temp is in the 195-205* range with oil temps 220-250* if your engine temp is lower the 195 you are loosing power. if your oil temp is above 260 you are loosing power or below 190 your loosing power.
I have a 185 t-stat and GM T1 oil cooler with a 3 quart accu-sump. I run 10 1/2 qts of oil. In cold weather i.e. <50* I have problems getting the oil and engine temp high enough for the car to work properly. One thing I do is put speed tape ( duct tape ) on the screens to block off air to the engine bay when temps are less then 50 degrees.
and we did not even get into the better cooling properties of distilled water ( with water pump lubracant like water wetter) vs anti-freeze or the use of a BIGGER RADIATOR.
`160 T-stat is way too cold. 180 or 185t-stat is much better.
Extra 1/2 qt to 1 qt helps even more with cooling.
Now do you really need all this cooling?? The ideal engine temp is in the 195-205* range with oil temps 220-250* if your engine temp is lower the 195 you are loosing power. if your oil temp is above 260 you are loosing power or below 190 your loosing power.
I have a 185 t-stat and GM T1 oil cooler with a 3 quart accu-sump. I run 10 1/2 qts of oil. In cold weather i.e. <50* I have problems getting the oil and engine temp high enough for the car to work properly. One thing I do is put speed tape ( duct tape ) on the screens to block off air to the engine bay when temps are less then 50 degrees.
and we did not even get into the better cooling properties of distilled water ( with water pump lubracant like water wetter) vs anti-freeze or the use of a BIGGER RADIATOR.
Again do you really NEED ALL THIS COOLING?
Considering I live in Texas (it never gets too cold) spurts of below 40 are not too common. Only see temps like that in the dead of winter. During the summer months though temps can reach 100-110 on any given day. With cooling problems at or around 85 to 90 degrees, I obviously need to do something. The car will reach temps of 260 easily. I’m just looking for a way to keep the temps at a safe range for daily crusing without busting the bank. No radiator....