Water Wetter DOES work..
Stop and go traffic in scenic Rocky Mount? Did someones cows make a mass breakout and block the roads?
J/K thanks for the tip
I know, doesn't sound right, but it's beginning to look like Jersey here. I always freak out when I am in traffic:
"It's a freakin' small town for cryin' out loud!!!"
Soon as Bojangles opened................

First we must dispel a common misconception: "Water Wetter" is not designed to lower your car's bulk coolant temperature. So if you put it in your Z06 hoping to see lower operational coolant temp's, then you will probably be disappointed.
"Water Wetter" is designed to reduce hot spots in your cylinder head. It does this by reducing the build-up of water vapor in any superheated areas. The bad thing about having hot spots in your cylinder head is that they can promote pre-ignition - definitely a bad thing. This harks back to Smokey Yunick's theory of "soft combustion chambers". Any sharp edges in your combustion chamber (around valve seats for example) may tend to get very hot (even red hot) during operation. These areas of the combustion chamber can then form local hot spots in the cooling passages. Thus, even though your bulk coolant temperature is well below its boiling point (i.e. your gauge reads just fine), there may be localized boiling in some regions of the coolant tract.
This localized boiling can cause a layer of water vapor to form over the hot spot. This vapor forms an insulative blanket and prevents heat from leaving this area, thus making the hot spot even worse. But reducing the surface tension of the water makes it easier for vapor bubbles to leave the surface of the cylinder head and allows the bubbles to convect heat away from the area. Something that changes the surface tension of a liquid is called a "surfactant". It does not take very much surfactant to significantly change the surface tension of water. Hence, you do not need to add very much "Water Wetter" in order for it to do its job.
An additional benefit of using "Water Wetter" (in conjunction with 100% water) in you cooling system is that water has an extremely high heat capacity. Thus a gallon of 100% water can carry more heat away from you engine than an equivalent gallon of 50/50 water and coolant. Water also has a high thermal conductivity which increases the convection of heat away from the coolant passage walls and into the free stream of the liquid flowing through the passages.
"Water Wetter" does not increase the boiling point of water. Standard automotive coolant does increase the boiling point of the mixture above that of 100% water. But remember that if your cooling system is operating properly, it should never get hot enough to boil (I mean BOIL, not just localized boiling). Raising the boiling point of the coolant in passenger cars is primarily a safety measure, so that if the cooling system is over stressed (climbing a hill on a hot day with AC on), it will not boil over. On performance cars the primary duty of the cooling system is to keep the engine in its optimum temperature range. This is best accomplished with 100% water, because its high heat capacity makes it very efficient at transferring heat.
The operating temperature of a stock system, like my Z06, is controlled by the thermostat and the cooling fans. The only change I see is how quickly the temperature drops once I start moving or the cooling fans come on and it does drop allot more quickly after adding 2 bottles of Water Wetter to the mix.
So folks, this is the skinny on Water Wetter....
I've also heard that if you're in a hot climate running 70/30 water/dexcool is reccomended. Any truth to this?
i have a 170 Tstat in my 97 and my water temp is around 185-195 during hottest summer days and that just with DEXCOOL
i tried WATER WETTER and it didnt do anything to the WATER TEMP... but then again i have a 170 degree TSTAT
Until the thermostat opens, the the coolant on the engine side of the thermostat doesn't circulate through the radiator which allows the engine to "warm up" faster. Once a thermosat is wide-open, it's temperature rating has no bearing on how cool the engine will run as the temperature rises(such as it will in warmer conditions).
In other words, if the operating conditions dictate that an engine will run at 200 degrees, it makes no difference whether your thermostat is rated at 160 or 180 degrees).
Bottom line: the thermostat was designed to help cars reach "normal operating temperatures" faster in winter conditions, not to make cars run cooler in warmer conditions.
The Dexcool serves to both lower the freezing point of the mixture as well as raise the boiling point. However, water by itself, is more effective than Dexcool at transferring and dissipating heat. In other words, the lower the Dexcool concentration in your mix, the cooler your car will run (but also the less protection you have against freezing and boiling).
But there's other reasons to use Dexcool. It also contains lubricants (ie for water pump) and corrosion inhibitors that are useful. So my recommendation is that if you are going to run a 70/30 mixture (better for cooling), also add the Water Wetter or Purple Ice (a similar product) which includes the lube and corrosion inhibitors which will make up for that which you lose by lowering the Dexcool concentration.
If you run 70/30, just don't forget to go back to a 50/50 mix if you are going to find yourself driving freezing winter weather. If you only run your car in warmer conditions, let's say the desert southwest, you can run 70/30 all year long and run cooler for doing so.
Last edited by zTrek; Jul 7, 2007 at 06:44 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Yes in hot climes a 70/30 water/dexcool PLUS water wetter is a great idea
I've used it in mine...good product, but from everything I've read on the forum about it and from red line you should be using 2 bottles of the stuff in a Vette. Just my .02














