Thank you! I did not get quite this advanced. My passenger's window (which seldom gets rolled down) stopped working about a week ago. I could hear the click in the door when I operated the switch (either direction), but there was no motion. I slapped it good with my fist exactly at the spot where the screwdriver goes in (and without actually taking anything apart) and voila! The window now goes up and down reliably. I am going to make sure that I run the windows up and down every time I bring the car into the garage from now on.

 

Does this work on a drivers window?

 

I don't know. If my driver's window ever stops working, I'll let you know.

 

My fist provided the precussive maintenance 5 years ago and not a problem since.

Thanks Fonz!

 

Worked for me saved a lot of money

 

OLD THREAD but wait till ya crack the mount flanges by doing this one too many times! Then the Fun really begins!!! Go ahead its your door!

 

Finally a situation where, "hitting it with a hammer", is actually the way to go! I came on the forum looking for all kinds of technical info, expecting a major project... two quick taps and the window works like new! Thanks!

 

Is the door frame where the door panel is mounted steel or fiberglass? I would rather take it apart if there is the possiblity of cracking it.

Michael

 

Update. I tried starting the car so the battery voltage would be up (14.3), and then gave the door handle a good horizontal blow with the palm of my hand after pressing the down button as suggested in another thread, and voila, it worked.

Michael

 

I wish that was true, but I've had to use this method a couple of times on my passenger side window, and my top goes down every day in the summer, and as much as I can during the rest of the year.

 

Yep me too about the convertible and the drivers window to boot

 

I only had to do it once. Now, I always make a point of rolling down both windows on my way to work. Never had a problem since.

 

Window Problem & Solution Below

My Problem:
Window (passenger) would roll down but once the movement stopped (either part or fully down) the window would not begin moving again. Slamming door or pounding on door about location of Motor / Door Control Module (as others advised) would occasionally get the window moving again. I could hear a clicking sound coming from the window relay each time I pressed the window up / down button.

My Solution:
Removed door panel, tested voltage to window motor at motor’s connection plug while pressing the window up button and then the window down button. Both measured ~12.7V. To me this meant that the power was making it to the window motor (I could also hear the Relay clicking) and the fact that the motor wasn’t working indicated that the problem existed within the motor. Took the motor apart and cleaned inside but there was almost no carbon from the brushes and everything looked very clean. Reinstalled window motor and Door Control Module and tested it. The window worked 4 times then stopped working again. It was evident I had done something to temporarily fix the problem but it wasn’t permanent. Repeated this process twice more before slowing down and realizing that the Relay was only working part of the time (intermittently). I noticed that when I depressed Window Up button the Relay clicked once and when I released the Window Up button the relay clicked a second time. However when I depressed the Window Down button the Relay clicked once but when I released the Window Down button the Relay did not click the second time. My conclusion was now that the Relay was bad. I again tested the voltage at the window motor connection plug however this time I tested the voltage when the window refused to move up or down. I was surprised to get voltage readings all over the place from 0.3Volts to 6.7V, but never the 12.7Volts I had gotten before (this could explain the intermittent window movement). I also realized that when the Relay did not click the second time upon releasing the Window Down Button the voltage continued flowing to the window motor (although the motor was not moving the window). My assumption now was that the window motor required over 12V to operate. I removed the Door Control Module from the car, and took the circuit board out for a close visual inspection. It was then that I realized that one of the 64 connector pins on the board that connect to the wire harness looked slightly tarnished yellow while all the rest were clean silver in appearance. The specific board pin that was tarnished mated with the Blue Wire that is contained in the Green Socket (harness) that plugged into the Door Control Module. I then disassembled the harness to look closely at the female jack on the blue wire. The female jack on the blue wire appeared clean under a magnifying glass. Using very fine sand paper I sanded the one plug.on the circuit board that was tarnished and then applied a very very light coating of petroleum jelly to ensure a good connection. I reinstalled the Door Control Module and checked the voltage at the motor’s connection plug. I now get a consistent 12.7V and I now hear the relay click once when depressing and a second time when releasing each Window up/down button and the window moves up and down. I don’t know whether this will turn out to be a permanent fix or a half success. It is possible that the tarnishing (yellowing) of the one plug was preventing the required flow of current to start the motor and it would also potentially explain why unplugging it and replugging it in created a short lived temporary fix. I don’t know though if it would explain why the relay did not originally click when releasing the Window Down button.

My Vette:
2002 C5 with ~68,000 miles in Austin, TX.

 

Another happy customer! Do you think this technique would get my AC to blow cold air again?

 

Great info. I actually decided to take the door panel off. I tapped on the window motor bolts with a hammer while holding down the window down button. Worked great. I left the windows down. Hopefully it stays fixed.

By the way. I second or third those who say not to do it exactly as the op mentioned. I would be worried about broken fiberglass.

 

Thank you "Nizzit". Of all of the suggestions that I read, 2009 and earlier to get my '99 C5 passenger window to go down, this would be my first choice! Simply holding down the passenger door "window" button and bumping my door with my fist several times, caused the window to go down. I then exercised the window with up/down motions for about 1 minute.

I did try the screw driver - hammer solution before the above with no initial success.

Since it's summer here in Maryland with temps over 90F, I wonder if the heat has something to do with the sticking passenger window problem. Any other observations about temperatures / time of year the problem occurs?

 

Thanks!!!LT1SPUD
2 LITE Taps & working like NEW!!!!!
P.S.To the people worried about cracking something don't worry !! No hammer needed. Using Cats paw or another screwdriver gives enough force/movement/shock to fix.

 

I was a little discouraged at first when the first 3 taps with the hammer & screwdriver did nothing, but I tapped it a forth time and down came the window.

Thanks for the help.

 

Still works! My 2004 passenger side window stuck. Thanks to this thread it works again. Thats what I get for not taking the top off enough. THANKS!

 

My 2004 Z06 driver side window stuck, so I replaced the mechanism, and it now works fine......for $295+$90 install!
SO then my passenger side stuck up. A friend found this (magic) fix, and I have successfully employed it.............IT WORKS!!! Thanks,