Leading edges of the DuraStops are beveled. (I forget the term used for that on pads...)

 

i wish i could have been in the shop and seen it for myself. but the insurance company said i couldn't, which i understand. that may have been the case for the last problem, but now, it isn't much of a problem because you can barely hear it, but it seems like it's more of a clicking noise than anything. it seems like everytime the tire makes a revolution there is one click at a certain spot. i'm still trying to investigate that now

 

It's the bottom edge of the pad that touches the rotor hats.

 

Sounds like you got the problem licked, then. Might I ask without hijacking this thread if it's OK to replace pads without turning or replacing rotors if they're still in good shape?

On my other cars, including my C4, it's never been a problem to cycle two sets of pads before turning rotors or replacing them , but I thought I'd get some opinions on doing so with my C5. The rotos have more than enough meat to turn them if I wanted to, but their surfaces are in such great shape, I was wondering if you guys think it's OK to do just the pads, and burnish them just as you would with a new set of rotors and pads.

 

Just found this at americasprideonline.com:

"To cut or not to cut

By now it should be easy to determine if the rotor requires replacement or if resurfacing is necessary to bring the rotor within specifications. But what if all measurements were within specification, the friction surface is smooth and the vehicle had no brake problems other than worn linings? Should the rotor still be resurfaced? Unlike the old days, today the prevailing wisdom is "no" for several reasons.

Resurfacing the rotor unnecessarily removes material and makes the rotor thinner, lessening its ability to absorb and dissipate heat and shortening the rotor's useable lifespan. Improper machining also can create problems. For instance, if a non-integral rotor is not setup properly on a bench lathe, an excessive lateral runout condition that did not previously exist can be created when it is reinstalled on the hub. Improper resurfacing also can create a friction surface that is too rough, causing brake noise, premature pad wear and a hard pedal condition.

Many of the OEMs have issued bulletins in the last few years providing guidelines for brake rotor servicing. In these bulletins, they've indicated that brake rotors should not be resurfaced during routine brake pad replacement. Most also recommend that new rotors not be resurfaced. "

 

I've subscribed to this as well. It's not recommended to resurface a rotor. Install new pads, bed them and go. Don't buy into this notion that the rotor warped and needs to be resurfaced. Replace with new when worn and or cracked.

 

agreed

 

MTI suggested that as well.

 

alright, well it's doing it again. at first it was just a very quiet clicking. you can tell it's at one particular spot in the tire rotation and a small click. but after i got on the brakes for a while it was loud and more constant. not as much of a swishing but a definite click. i don't know what to do cause it's the same front pass side too. i might try and change the rotor. that's all i can think of

 

Have you tried getting that wheel up in the air, removing the tire (put at least one lug nut back on, and carefully spin the rotor to see where it is touching causing the click sound?

Again be careful spinning the rotor so that your fingers don't get pinched by the caliper.

Obviously a shop is doing the work from reading your posts, but I would insist they escort me back and demo what is going on.

 

Now, that you've been dealing with this for some time, take a close look at the edge of the bad (the edge closest to the rotor hats). Like I said above, I bet the pads are contacting the rotor hats. I can see how that can happen if either the pads or the rotors are slightly out of factory spec tolerances. There really is not much room for error at the point of contact.

What brand of pads and rotors are these?

 

I just replaced my pads with Hawk HPS pads and did not resurface the rotors. My experience has been that on any car that I've had the rotors turned, they warp very rapidly afterwards due to the loss of material. I also had my brake fluid changed, and the brakes bled, at the same time. After following the Hawk bedding procedures the car stops great and the brakes are absolutely silent.
Ed

 

well i didn't turn the rotors they are brand new. and i always thought that if you get h/p pads and rotors your switch to high heat fluid. i will ask for them to do that at MTI. the shop here did ask me not to go back but i went back anyway. I SUGGESTED TURNING THE ROTORS BY HAND TO CHECK AND HE SAID THAT WOULND'T DO ANYTHING!!! after he said that i knew it was time for me to well, leave that shop. i'm going back down to houston, MTI set up an app. with me next saturday and they'll take a look at it, as well as let me go and see for myself. i don't remember the exact name but i know they are baer crossed and slotted and they are acdelco dura stop pads.

 

If by h/p pads you mean high performance, I don't believe the ceramic pads you currently have installed qualify as that. You should not have to go to any kind of a special high heat fluid. Ceramics will fade quite a bit sooner than regular pads will. They are fine for regular driving and are low dusting , however, which is great. If you want brakes that have greater stopping power for a longer period of time when the car is driven "sportingly", ceramics may not be the pads to use. Personally, as I have upped the performance level of the car, I went to Hawk HPS pads to increase stopping power.
Ed

 

yes high performance....maybe i made that up.well i will probably have to change all of these pads out again, it feels like they have worn so much in the past week and a half. is there any type of warranty with pads like, a 30 day warranty or something? i just read the high heat fluid thing in a book but your right, it doesn't seem like that would be necessary. i'll suggest the hawk to MTI thanks.

 

The Hawk HPs is a great pad, IMHO. Great stopping power, quiet and they don't dust much. See what MTI suggests. I suspect they will say to change out the ceramics. BTW, I'm not a great fan of drilled and slotted rotors, either. I debated putting them on, but I read so many threads on here about them cracking, I decided against it. They look cool, but, when you drill and slot, you lose surface area and modern day pads don't offgas like the old ones used to. My tuner cautioned against them.
Ed

 

Good Info! !

 

Sticking calipers maybe? When cold, they would work fine, but as they heat up they expand, thus the noise gets bad. Are those some symptoms you're experiencing?

 

yeah...it is actually. it's not as loud when i first go out, but on my way back in from somewhere it's a lot louder. and i read about the c/d and slotted, and yeah i didn't really want them either but i was in a hurry, which was a mistake. i went with them cause it's all MTI had in stock. i guess we'll see if the pads can make a difference, i hope they do, but once i think i have a solution it occurs to me again that it's only the front right that's doing it.

 

Wait a minute! I once had the emergency brake shoes replaced in my Suburban, and they adjusted them wrong. Then, when driving for awhile they would expand with heat. Then I heard a metal on metal sound, and even some weird howling. Maybe the guys that did your brakes did something like that?