Rotor rust
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 7,604
Likes: 8
From: Belleville Il
I'm driving mine all the time--errands,short trips cruising,trips to the golf course and when the time comes trips.I still like to keep it as clean and shinny as possible/practical.if not why drive a vette
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 18,308
Likes: 21
From: Marlton. Increasing performance one speeding ticket at a time! NJ
Actually, you'd be much better off with cadmium-plated rotors.
Zinc is a very soft metal and at the thickness typically applied, is fairly flimsy in the long run. cadmium is much harder and more durable, even compared to an epoxy-based paint.
All PowerSlot rotors are cadmium-plated. Yes, they are more expensive than zinc-washed rotors, but the cad-plated rotors will look good far longer.
Zinc is a very soft metal and at the thickness typically applied, is fairly flimsy in the long run. cadmium is much harder and more durable, even compared to an epoxy-based paint.
All PowerSlot rotors are cadmium-plated. Yes, they are more expensive than zinc-washed rotors, but the cad-plated rotors will look good far longer.
As for the rust......clean them up with some scotchbrite on a power wheel (cordless drill works fine). Then, paint them, or do what I did, send them to the local plater for zinc. The advantage to dipping them is that they coat the entire rotor, not just the painted surfaces.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,672
Likes: 0
From: Made in USA Show Me State
You might try, rotorpro.com. I am on my second set, first set was great, sold that car, now have a set on my '08, never any rust. Cadium plated, drilled and slotted usually run $200 without shipping. Great value.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,990
Likes: 346
From: Mt. Pleasant S.C.
My rotors with a few coats of rustoleum primer then gloss black. That's after 6 months of daily driving in whatever weather Seattle wants to give me. It's got 9 months now and has even been driven in snow. Still looks like the day I painted them.
I want my car to run every day AND I want it to look good doing it.
I want my car to run every day AND I want it to look good doing it.
Last edited by Sox-Fan; Jan 23, 2008 at 10:40 PM. Reason: .... typos....
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,190
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville AR
I bought mine to drive not to wash and wax. It is my daily driver along with many autocrosses and HPDE. Evidently, I care as much about driving mine as you do washing yours. Just different tastes. I like to use what I buy, not just look at it like a women with a diamond.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 19,304
Likes: 85
From: San Diego CA
Overall, I agree but cad is becoming more expensive since it's been pretty much banned from use for most things. Getting them cad plated yourself can be pretty pricey since there are fewer and fewer platers who deal with it.
As for the rust......clean them up with some scotchbrite on a power wheel (cordless drill works fine). Then, paint them, or do what I did, send them to the local plater for zinc. The advantage to dipping them is that they coat the entire rotor, not just the painted surfaces.
As for the rust......clean them up with some scotchbrite on a power wheel (cordless drill works fine). Then, paint them, or do what I did, send them to the local plater for zinc. The advantage to dipping them is that they coat the entire rotor, not just the painted surfaces.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Manhasset Hills NY
Those rotors GOTS to be clean and shiny... else paint the wheels orange 
Ok, there are a few different options here, damn... I just picked up my car last week, and of course in the past 6 days, it has rained 5 of them So, I really haven't been able to drive it, but I have been adding the mods in the driveway in the meantime...
But I have noticed the STOCK rotors are all rusty in less than a week!!! There are many opinions in this posting... but what I gather from it is that the rotors should be 1. cleaned 2. painted 3. a rust shield added.
Is this correct, and in the right order? Would this work for the stock rotors? I wanna keep them the silver/grey color they are..
Thanks all!
Ok, there are a few different options here, damn... I just picked up my car last week, and of course in the past 6 days, it has rained 5 of them
So, I really haven't been able to drive it, but I have been adding the mods in the driveway in the meantime... But I have noticed the STOCK rotors are all rusty in less than a week!!! There are many opinions in this posting... but what I gather from it is that the rotors should be 1. cleaned 2. painted 3. a rust shield added.
Is this correct, and in the right order? Would this work for the stock rotors? I wanna keep them the silver/grey color they are..
Thanks all!
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 9,369
Likes: 4
From: Zephyrhills, Florida
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Must be air infiltration to her cerebellum
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,788
Likes: 6
From: Winchester TN
Cruise-In III Veteran
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'11
Hi shaggyboiler -
I'll offer my solution -
When I had the stock rotors on my Z (for almost 50k miles), I used Amzoil MP (Metal Protectant).
I would wipe the hub of the rotor off with a rag soaked with MP.
Then I wiped the swept area with alcohol, and put the wheels back on.
This kept the rotors a nice natural grey color, and prevented the rust very well.
I also use this stuff on my firearms.
best regards-
mqqn
I'll offer my solution -
When I had the stock rotors on my Z (for almost 50k miles), I used Amzoil MP (Metal Protectant).
I would wipe the hub of the rotor off with a rag soaked with MP.
Then I wiped the swept area with alcohol, and put the wheels back on.
This kept the rotors a nice natural grey color, and prevented the rust very well.
I also use this stuff on my firearms.
best regards-
mqqn
