That was fast JW! The switchbacks are a nice addition. I love mine and get many compliments. Will you be selling the hyperflash harnesses too or arent they needed with just the switchbacks?? I've got the led tailights also so I needed the harness.

 

Anyone know the pinout for the DIC and HUD buttons for + and -?

Situation: Working on led mod for these, they are on the bench, helping someone through the mail so don't have a car apart to plug them on for testing. Just need to know the pinout so I can just test them to be sure they will work.

Planning for a week or so and I'll post pics of all the switch modules with + and - marked for the rest of the group.

 

Forum stumped?

 

If I recall correctly, Tim had posted this pinout some where in this thread.

Gary

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1565006981-post4.html

on the bottom of that post...

Tim

 

There are so much info on here so maybe I'm just confused.

Which interior lights can use plug-n-play LEDs? The initial post's list of bulb sizes only have that "neo wedge" thing under a few.

 

The P&Ps will "fit" in all the switches. All of them use the larger type B (or what Oznium sells) ecxept the Dimmer/HUD which uses a Type A NEO Wedge... The Type is a bit too large and the hole needs lightly filed out in te PCB.

That said, they are gonna look like poop in the Traction Switch and the Trunk Release/Fog. You can also remove them from the bases and use em in the Radio and HVAC.

Tim

 

So pretty much we can order those Type B PnP LEDs and replace most of the interior lights with the same effect, at a higher cost per bulb?

By "fit" you mean the entire bulb (with the housing) is just replaced, right?

 

Yep, you just remove the stock bulb/base assembly and replace it with the NEO Wedge LED/Base assembly. They have the resistor built into them already.

Like I said the Dimmer/HUD uses a smaller bulb/base then all the other switches in the car. You could remove the NEO from it's base and solder it unto the board of the Dimmer/HUD switch...

FYI autolumination.com now has a NEO that is 30% brighter then the old one, I ahven't played with em yet as I pretty much just do custom installs and do not use the NEOs... Maybe Tom will step in, I believe he experimented with them.

Tim

 

Are the old ones not bright enough? Or are those 30% brighter NEOs just for people who want to be blinded by LEDs?

Thanks for the info. I might swap a few bulbs.

 

You won't be blinded by any stretch... It takes a lot of light output for an LED to fill the space of an incandescent bulb with it's 360 degree rance of light versus the 10 - 25 degree range of an LED. Also some of the buttons are a solid block of opaque silicone or something which mutes the light output as well...

Alot of us in here have spent hours and HOURS experimenting with different techniques and products to get the light as even as possible...

I say go for it! Alot of owners are pleased with the results of just using the NEOs in most of the switches.

Tim

 

Are there any particular light I need to watch out for? I mean since the LEDs don't give out lights 360 degrees. Or can we just use type B/A for basically all of them and they are identical?

Damn I need to go to bed.. been researching this stuff way too long.

Thanks for giving us more info though.

 

I'll compare the new brighter neo's tonight and let you know how it went. I'm curious too!! Just been too busy to test

 

They're horrible! I had them before I got my switches modded. Not worth the money. Most of them break. Make sure you order double the amount you need if you go this route.

 

Keep us updated!

Please explain. I'm trying to decide. The problem with regular LEDs is that you have to soldner them and I have no idea nor do I have a soldnering gun. If the neo's really suck then it's time to learn soldnering or give up LEDs!

 

They do. Believe me. I would never buy them again. The 3 that I actually got to go in without breaking weren't bright as the soldered kind either. It's not fun having half blue lights and half stock yellow ugly brown looking lights in my switches.

We can do your switches if you don't feel comfortable. Our prices are reasonable too.

Not trying to sell you anything, just sharing my experience.

 

Hmm, I've actually had no problems with the neo's I've used. I've done a few radio's, hvacs. and plenty of switches and never broken any. Not sure why our experiences have been so different. Think I'll go check those brighter ones now to see how they look.

 

I see. Thanks for sharing your experience. You are a vender so you can sell anything you want. I have heard nothing but good feedback about you.

If I need anything I'll let you know...

I might try a couple neo's though. I checked out some interior LED photos and some of them look REALLY bright. Honestly it kind of gives me a "ricer" feel... But then photos always have problems with lighting. I think it's one of those things that you just have to see it in person to judge.

 

You used neo's for radio, HVAC, and switches?

Care to share any photos? I'd appreciate it.

 

if they make you feel ricer just order white ones, they will be whiter and cleaner looking than stock, draw less power, and your window and DIC controls wont be hot to the touch anymore!

they really aren't that bad, but here is my experience with them...the housings suck. they are too tight of a fit and when you try to twist them they break. if you ever put one in backwards good luck getting it out to rotate it. there is a simple solution, this is what I did. buy enough neo wedges for all of your controls. use a pair of needle nose pilers to remove the LED and tiny circuit board with the resistor out of it. do the same to your stock lights (follow instructions on spdkilz.com for pictures of how to use pliers to disassemble the lights) then install the new LED and resistor assemblies into the stock neo wedge bases. they fit right in. once you have done this they will fit like stock.

to me they are brighter than stock and I wouldn't want them any brigther. they really clean up the interior look and after the quick base swap plug in perfectly. trust me, don't even try to install them using the black bases provided. I still have a piece of one inside my hatch/fog lights switch assembly that I can't get out. sometimes when it falls into the wrong place, I can't push the hatch release button because the piece of the junk base is jammed in there.