I personally don't have any expereience with these installed, but I have heard that they provide excellent gains higher than some leading brands. I can't recall what the gains were, but they were fairly impressive!

 

Well obviously they would make comparible power to the other manufacturers as the bends and angles of the primaries and what not are extremely similar. For $635 shipped there HAS to be a catch somewhere but, I AM NOT SEEING IT LOL. They look tig welded and they are mandrel bent. I suppose longevity would be the only issue but they are made from the same material as the other guys.

-Alex

 

Yes we need fitment feedback.

-Alex

 

I am seeing a handful of differences the more I look into it, and am still questioning the power claims. I just prefer real world measurements rather than taking for granted what a handful of happy people are saying once they find a "really cheap" set of Longtubes.

A couple differences I've seen are a smaller collector size than some competitors and it looks from the pictures posted that the Xpipe is 2 1/2" where competitors are 3". Can anyone measure the Xpipe diamater? It's not listed on the site.

I'm in the market for longtubes and have not seen these before. As excited as I am, I'm going to do my best to make an educated decision before impulse buying these pipes.

 

LG's street series midpipes are 2.5 from the header back for $800 plus. It's their Pro series that is 3.0 for another $800.

-Alex

 

I know that, I didn't state anything specific. But just for clarity LG Pro's aren't the only ones with a 3" setup. Kooks are as well, or at least it's an option with the midpipe according to their site. You can get 2 1/2" or 3". I haven't looked up others yet as it's not really important.

 

Oh okay just trying to add some more information for the comparison. Yeah the other big names have a 3" option. Looking at the other sites they have large similarities. Material is a big deal, they are all SUS 304 so the material will be as strong as the others especially with the welds and bends. I just say that if the fitment is great then they have an excellent product that will easily be competition for the big guys with that price.

-Alex

 

Did a search and am finding a lot of threads with huge debates on quality of construction and fitment issues. Going to keep looking, but I think I might go with my original plan and stay clear of these just to be cautious. We'll see...

 

Unless your running 600 plus HP you dont need 3" pipe anyway. Big pipe on a under horsepowered motor hurts not helps.

 

That's definitely good to know.

In my particular case, having a 3" pipe may be what I'm looking for.

 

Just check the others threads with dyno numbers I will be ordering a set unless LG comes back with there 895.00 shipped sale they had before Xmas.

 

After searching a few different header threads I have seen people have trouble with both LGs and this particular header as far as fitment. Of course there are several people claiming to like the OBX system and LGs of course have a great reputation as well as ARH. So I gotta say for a hit and miss with either product that looks this similar and made from the same material, I'd go for the more cost effective route.

An aftermarket header system is going to far out perform a stock one regardless, so it's not like you will be loosing horsepower. Most of the people that claim they had fitment issues from my search was because they bought the system designed for the 01+ models and were trying to fit them on their pre01s. They even stated how good the quality was and that it was still easy to over come that with some block off plates and such. For $600 shipped for a awesome looking and using the same material, tig welding, bends and overall design as the $1,000 systems I think I have a pretty educated choice here.

I suggest everyone do a search too. I am going off what MANY have said and they claim they like this product alot. Most of those threads turned into a pissing match between buying foreign and American but, a good product is a good product regardless of where it was made. Just my .02

-Alex

 

One of the older threads has a dyno run on the OBX headers. The results were impressive. The catch is they don't come with high flow cats. They come with resonators. The cats will set you back another 3 or 4 hundred if you go with the Dynatech set up. And since OBX ripped their design I will buy the Dynamaxx cats for a decent fit. So either 1000 bucks for the OBX clone with cats or 1500 for the real deal.

Can somebody stick a good magnet on the OBX tubes and tell me how hard it sticks or not at all. Very important info I need for my decision.

 

Is stainless steel supposed to be magnetic?

-Alex

 

Several families of stainless steel are magnetic. However, the most common stainless steels are 'austenitic' - these have a higher chromium content and nickel is also added. It is the nickel which modifies the physical structure of the steel and makes it non-magnetic.

304 stainless is in one of the grades of stainless steel that is austenitic. So a magnetic should not stick to 304 stainless (unless it has been cold worked)

Cold Working

Many cold drawn and/or polished bars have a noticeable amount of magnetism as a result of the previous cold work. This is particularly the case with grades 304 and 303, and much less so for the higher nickel grades such as 310 and 316. Even within the chemical limitations of a single standard analysis range there can be a pronounced variation in the rate of inducement of magnetic response from cold work.

Any austenitic (300 series) stainless steel which has developed magnetic response due to cold work can be returned to a non-magnetic condition by stress relieving. In general this can be readily achieved by briefly heating to approximately 700 - 800°C (this can be conveniently carried out by careful use of an oxy-acetylene torch). Note, however, unless the steel is a stabilised grade it could become sensitised to carbide precipitation. Full solution treatment at 1000 - 1150°C will remove all magnetic response without danger of reduced corrosion resistance due to carbides.

 

Great looking headers where are they manufactured? At such a low price i would venture to say they are imported from China.

 

they are...

still, any dyno results?

 

Has anyone here actually installed these pipes? I would be anxious to hear what they had to say about the installation as well as the performance. The price is almost to good to be true quality.

 

If you are trying to stay somewhat emissions legal, the first catch is no cats. You are looking at around $500.00 for a set of cats.

 

Looks good. Nice option for less $$