Im having the common, "pedal sticking" and "pedal stuck to floor" issues in my slightly modded 01 Z06. I want to have a new clutch/slave and bearing installed, but I want to know what clutch I should have installed. I like the idea of the LS7 components, but I dont want to have these problems again down the road, and I have heard that some LS7 owners have the same issues (granted they have more power than I do). Please give me your recommendations on the clutch and slave I should use. I do mostly daily driving, and some drag racing, but Im usually NICE to my clutch(no powershifting normally). Thanks in advance for your help.

 

i recently did a monster stage 3 and tick master and love it - lil stiffer then stock but no more sticky and handles 600rwhp no problem

Mike yeager - east coast performance - sells the clutches

 

I really think stock C5 Z06 will be fine for you after they heat wrap the lines and give you a remote bleeder so you can get all the fluid out at once. Not sure but a new master has been mentioned here as something to try if you have already used the "Ranger" method of cleaning out the clutch fluid reservoir if there is any color change.

 

Please dont forget to tell me what kind of slave cylinder you recommend and where to get all these parts at. Thanks

 

Also, get a regular GM T56 slave (cheaper) and punch out the rollpin and install the old line with the disconnect.

Monster stage 3 here from Tick performance. Cheaper than the textralia I was looking at. So far so good, some chatter but its getting better.

 

stock slave - gene @ gmpartshouse.com
master too if you are gonna switch it out to another stock one.

 

^ pretty sure the monster kits come with a new throwout bearing and such, dunno about slave though. I was looking at this clutch for my GTO before I got the Z

 

ya mine came with a slave and t/o bearing - not sure if it was part of the kit or the group buy they had.


you doing the install yourself?

 

Any Corvette that's driven aggressively will accumulate clutch dust in the hydraulic fluid. None are immune. The moral is to keep the fluid clean throughout the period of your ownership.

If you've not done that, but rather, get pedal woes and cleaning the fluid doesn't resolve the issue, then the next step is to replace the master cylinder. It's the cheapest accessible part, may correct the problem without the expense and RISK of pulling the drive-train apart and changing a clutch with only a few thousand miles on it.

It's your car and $$$. But you might want to factor in the RISK.

Five small suggestions to those contemplating a clutch replacement.

(1) Seach the archives (C5 Z06 and C5 Tech) for the words "clutch AND vibration" because there is a history of post-clutch-swap woes you need to be aware of.

(2) Choose your installer carefully. If you don't, the odds are good that you will not be happy with the results. You want a technician with a lot of (favorable) experience in swapping C5/C6 clutches.

(3) Insist that the new clutch assembly be sent to a reputable machine shop for balancing before the installation. Do this even if the installer insists it is unnecessary, "because it comes balanced by the manufacturer." I've had five C5/C6 clutches balanced. All were significantly out-of-balance out-of-the-box (by 27 to 54 grams).

(4) Before you drop your car off for the installation, be very careful to memorize how much your shifter and butt vibrate under various rpm/conditions.

(5) Finally, if replacing the clutch, be certain to replace all the related clutch hydraulic elements. And be certain you get the latest parts for your VIN.

Anyone that shrugs and ignores this advice has heighten the odds they will end up with notable drive train vibrations, originating from the clutch assembly, and they will have a bad time getting them resolved by their installer or anyone else.

Ranger

 

I am debating on having the shop do it, or doing it myself. I havent done this before, but I think I learn quickly. How about remote bleeders too? Where can I get a good one? And fluid, what about something with a higher boiling temp like ATE super blue?

 

Take Rangers advice above.

As far as new clutches, I think the BEST clutch for the money is the Centerforce Dual Friction. I recently had one installed by the Vette Doctors (re-using my stock flywheel which of course was re-surfaced and the assembly was balanced at a machine shop as Ranger mentions above). The clutch was only $329 @ Jegs ( Part # 183-DF395010 ) after doing a price match from the cheapest place I could find online. This clutch has tons of positive feedback all over the internet...including the mustang and Mopar guys too. It will hold a ton of power but still is easy to drive. The pedal effort is a little more and it grabs a little quicker, but there is no chatter at all and you can still ease it into gear no problem for slow driving and bumper to bumper traffic. And it holds like crazy. When you drive it aggressively it just grabs so quick and firmly, not an ounce any of any slipping. I have 432/428 and drag radials for the record. I believe the clutch is good to like 700 ft/lbs torque.

...Or you can take some others advice and spend $850 on a megad*ick stage 25 Godzilla clutch and have chatter issues :p

I also replaced the hydraulics with GM parts from Gene Cully and got a remote bleeder from tick performance.

 

check with mike yeager - eastcoastperformance

hes has everything you need for clutch swap - ie fluid/bleeder ect


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/memb...rformance.html

 

Centerforce

 

spec 2 or 3 with an alumium flywheel and new slave cylinder

 

Definitly don't get a Tex.

I agree with those that posted above, call Mike at East Coast. He will set you up.

 

LOL...

It's good to see some folks are happy with Centerforce. I've used Centerforce cluthes in various vehicles ranging from 4x4's to sports cars over the last 20 years, and I've always been happy with the price and performance. I've been thinking about putting one of these in my C5Z when the time comes.

 

I love my Tex

 

your tex didnt rip apart at the pressure plate for no reason

 

6) install a remote clutch bleeder valve kit

Great for changing clutch fluid


RPS twin carbon http://www.turboclutch.com/

up to 800 hp

 

Nice clutch if he wants to spend $1500. The Centerforce has close to the same torque holding power (both of which are way more than he has since he's only "slightly modded"). Drive-ability is probably similar too, but the CF costs a fraction of the price.