use 5-w30, 10-w30. for the most part the 0-w40 was designed IIRC for European cars.

the extended oil is just fine, and may be better as it has more of the anti wear additives.

AmsOil is great oil and many ppl use that.

Some ppl use Redline or RP. All great oils.

change your filter each oil change and IHO, dont try to do that taxi cab test between oil changes.

for high stress / racing applications use an appropriate oil. Normally a higher wt / viscosity oil. Your 15-w50s, or 40 wt racing oils These oils will take very high heat for long periods of time with minimal break down as the normal wt oils would.

 

Got a question that AN U EGL could probably answer...

I see a lot of people using magnets on their filters to catch all the little metal particles that the filter doesn't catch. Which one is the best and where do I get it?

 

Hi There rws.1
Not a chance says fully synthetic on the front.
robsc501

 

I use any of these..................


Whatever is on sale. I'll use "old school" 10w/30, unless they don't have any, then 5w/30.

I just completed a 4k mile trip over I40/US66. Outside temps up to 120° (Lake Havasu), zero oil consumption, still read "ADD" through the oil on the dipstick, Oil Life Monitor currently reads 59% (Based on 10K OLM). Used any recommended oil and you'll be just fine.

Vette ran like a "Timex".

 

Interesting how GM recommends Mobil 1 instead of their own AC Delco product.

 

GM doesn't recommend any particular oil over any other. It only states that Mobil 1 is the factory fill. Free oil for the new Vettes? Maybe?

 

change your oil more often. Send it to bob the oil guy for analysis.

You quickly learn how the inside of your engine is doing.

besides don't think copper, brass or aluminum stick to magnets. IIRC too much copper means you bearings, bushings and valve guides are going.

"Metal Tests
Some of the metals tested for and usually included in analysis of an oil sample and their potential sources are:



* Aluminum (Al): Thrust washers, bearings and pistons are made of this metal. High readings can be from piston skirt scuffing, excessive ring groove wear, broken thrust washers, etc.
* Boron, Magnesium, Calcium, Barium, Phosphorous, and Zinc: These metals are normally from the lubricating oil additive package. They involve detergents, dispersants, extreme-pressure additives, etc.
* Chromium (CR): Normally associated with piston rings. High levels can be caused by dirt coming through the air intake or broken rings.
* Copper (CU), Tin: These metals are normally from bearings or bushings and valve guides. Oil coolers also can contribute to copper readings along with some oil additives. In a new engine these results will normally be high during break-in, but will decline in a few hundred hours.
* Iron (Fe): This can come from many places in the engine such as liners, camshafts, crankshaft, valve train, timing gears, etc.
* Lead (Pb): Use of regular gasoline will cause very high test results. Also associated with bearing wear, but fuel source (leaded gasoline) and sampling contamination (use of galvanized containers for sampling) are critical in interpreting this metal.
* Silicon (Si): High readings generally indicate dirt or fine sand contamination from a leaking air intake system. This would act as an abrasive, causing excessive wear. Silicon is also used as a anti-foam agent in some oils.
* Sodium (Na): High readings of this metal normally are associated with a coolant leak, but can be from an oil additive package."


Change your oil often and send it to bob.

I use AC Delco filters. Buy them by the case. I have three vehicles that use the same filter

 

Oops......:o

 

The GM 4718M oil spec was originally made for the newer Corvettes that don't use oil coolers. I have a 85 which has an oil cooler so GM 6094 spec is ok for me. Just a word of caution....It is a good thing to use oil that meets GM specs. There is alot of oil out there that pretends to be something special which does not meet either GM 6094 or 4718 specs.Did you know there is even a oil that has positraction grease addative in it?Would you believe there is a oil out there made from cow parts? Its true. Those of you who wish to use Castrol you would be better off to use Castrol Edge.The Syntec doesn't meet GM 4718. Actually Castrol Syntec isn't really a synthetic like Mobil 1, Valvoline, etc. With the new technology we are going from what was thought to be a better oil like 50wt etc, to 5w-30, 0w-20 oil. The reasoning is they feel the thinner oil gets to the bearing quicker which is great upon starting,and also the synthetic oil doesn't break down with heat...To sum it all up...If the bottle doesn't have the GM specs whether GM4718 for the newer Corvettes , or GM6094 for the older Corvettes, then find a bottle that has those specs on it....Our cars are worth more than experimenting with oil that doesn't meet GM specs. We trusted GM to build the car of our dreams ...we can trust them to tell us what oil will keep it alive!

 

I'd recommend dropping the Mobil1 and getting some AMSOIL. Mobil1 is all advertisement and not all what its cracked up to be. Just remember to buy the AMSOIL filters on their site. They are like $15 a pop but a big difference compared to the junk at any auto parts store. BTW a hard driver doesn't have to change AMSOIL until like 15k miles... a highway driver can wait like 30k miles... but I change mine early anyways.

 

For the price on a DD Amsoil is way over kill. And who the heck would run there car for 30,000 miles before an oil change?
Mobil 1 or RP are just fine, ...

 

AMSOIL really isn't as expensive as most make it out to be. Although I am prohibited from advertising prices online, I can share them via PM. If anyone is interested in AMSOIL, I can get you dealer wholesale pricing via the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program. Drop me a PM if interested.

 

From a FAQ on the Mobil 1 website--check it out


Ask Mobil
Explain Why Mobil 1 Extended Performance Not GM4718M Certified

Ask Your Stickiest Question. . . Or ask us something you’ve always wanted to know about using our products. We’ll sort through all the submissions and present the best questions to our automotive experts. The questions, and their answers, will post right here on the site.



Question:
Explain Why Mobil 1 Extended Performance Not GM4718M Certified
Can you please explain the difference between GM6049M and GM4718M? I have read several answers on this site that state that using the extended performance Mobil 1 will work just as well as regular Mobil 1. I just want to understand what is different between the two specs, and what about the extended performance does not allow it to be GM4718M certified. Thanks, Clint
-- Clint Kline, Anderson, IN

Answer:
GM 6094M is based on the same specifications as ILSAC GF-4 but additionally includes some specific GM requirements. GM 4718M is the GM high performance oil specification that goes well beyond the industry standard ILSAC GF-4 and API SM specifications. The Mobil 1 grades that carry GM 4718M have been fully approved and tested against GM 4718M. The companion Mobil 1 Extended Performance viscosity grades have not been formally approved against GM 4718M but will provide the performance at GM 4718M level. Engine testing required to get formal approval is limited to certain Mobil 1 products only.

 

Thanks. I'm going to do an oil change soon. I think I have Mobile1 right now, and I don't like it at all.

I'll send a sample out to bob and post my results.

 

I have been using M1 since the car was new May of 03 and M1 15-w50 since March of 04 when the oil cooler and accu-sump were added.

Send my oil off every oil change, about two track weekends and ~ 400-500 miles

Some minor degradation, but not too bad for an engine with 25,000 HARD 3000 to redline miles. Winter of O4 I pulled the heads, changed the valves, valve guides and springs, new rockers, new cam timing chain, PP oil pump.

then each winter will pull the heads to inspect and change the springs. This past winter did everything again. New valves, valve guidls, springs, retainers and rockers.

personlly I dont think the new M1 5-w30 or 10-w30 may be as good as the older. With the new Gooberment regulations on additives and reduced anit wear zinc to increase millage, I think changing to Amsoil or Redline would be a better choice.

My 04 1500 hd has 110,000 miles on and change that oil when the DIC says change. about 6000 miles. The last few samples sent to bob came back that there was more engine wear, but most likely do to the oil reconfiguations caused by the new oil standards of the Gooberment.

Just cause the GM booklet says a certain spec, does not mean that is the best oil. It means that is what the government wants for the best fuel millage / anti-wear combination.

 

If I can afford a new motor this winter, I will look at some thing other then M1.

again guys dont get hung up on "GM Recomended part number" oil

 

Valvoline full synthetic has both GM numbers (4718, 6094) on the container

 

Sitting here looking at a quart of M1 that I bought earlier this year in the 10-30 version. Says is meets the GM 6094M specs. Nothing about the one for vettes. Probably a viscosity issue with the vettes. Stick with the 5-30 and take the one you bought back. I've used M1 for over 20 years in all types of vehicles and never had an engine problem.

 

While I have not seen oil analysis reports for the 0W-30, the reports I saw on this forum for 0W-40 Mobile 1 have been good. Porsche uses the 0W-40 Mobil 1 as factory fill in their Boxster and maybe other models, so I have no doubt that it is a good oil. The 0W-30 is a bit newer, I believe and that is probably what you saw at Walmart (I've seen it there, as well). More than likely, that grade oil would perform well in our engines.

 

I'm thinking of trying it out.. I think price is the same as 10W-30.