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Tell me guys, is it nessesery to installe those bendt short pipes on and after the Electric cutout unit it self.
Does it sounds better or why do you do that?.,
i´ve seen some that don´t installe any thing after the unit, but i´m wondering the difference whith or whithout
i bought this unit me self, and i did put the wires up at the gear shifter, and connected it to the sigarette heater in the arm rest box, and there the switch will be.
i haven´t installe the cutout it self, but next days i will.
Tell me guys, is it nessesery to installe those bendt short pipes on and after the Electric cutout unit it self.
Does it sounds better or why do you do that?.,
i´ve seen some that don´t installe any thing after the unit, but i´m wondering the difference whith or whithout
i bought this unit me self, and i did put the wires up at the gear shifter, and connected it to the sigarette heater in the arm rest box, and there the switch will be.
i haven´t installe the cutout it self, but next days i will.
thanks
Baezi
The main reason I did that is so I didn't have the exhaust aiming right at my leaf spring. I didn't want to take a chance of weaking it. It also helps on directing the sound/exhaust out the rear.
Just finished connecting the remote control for the electric cutouts on the Z06, and it works great!
Instead of a manual switch, we connected a polarity reversing remote control relay..
Now, it has a remote for the NPP exhaust, remote for the cutouts, and we are thinking about a remote to bypass the NAV lockout. Need a program to keep up with all the remotes!
I'm curious how this works. Sounds like the way I should go.
Any help here guys?
I'm curious how this works. Sounds like the way I should go.
Any help here guys?
Thanks,Seth
The cutouts come with a manual, spring loaded, toggle switch. You push it one direction to open the cutouts, and push it the other direction to close them. The cutout butterfly valves are driven by a 12 volt DC motor. You apply power to the leads to drive the motor in one direction, and reverse the polarity on the motors to drive them the other direction.
All the remote does is replace the manual switch. You hold one button down on the remote to open the valves, and hold the other button down to close them.
You can mount the remote receiver next to where ever you get power. We got power at the fuse box under the passenger side foot well, same as where the remotes get power for the factory bi-modal exhaust, or so called mild to wild remote.
My friend's C6 Z06 also has the factory bi-modal exhaust, so he has a remote for the factory butterflys and one for the electric cutouts.
so quick question, how much is the install running for you guys. With titanium welding and paying for a small amount of tubing used to attach the cut outs?
I've been wanting to do this for a good while because I'm just not interested in an aftermarket exhaust note 24/7. Glad to see i'm not the only one
The cutouts come with a manual, spring loaded, toggle switch. You push it one direction to open the cutouts, and push it the other direction to close them. The cutout butterfly valves are driven by a 12 volt DC motor. You apply power to the leads to drive the motor in one direction, and reverse the polarity on the motors to drive them the other direction.
All the remote does is replace the manual switch. You hold one button down on the remote to open the valves, and hold the other button down to close them.
You can mount the remote receiver next to where ever you get power. We got power at the fuse box under the passenger side foot well, same as where the remotes get power for the factory bi-modal exhaust, or so called mild to wild remote.
My friend's C6 Z06 also has the factory bi-modal exhaust, so he has a remote for the factory butterflys and one for the electric cutouts.
The relay and remotes look like this....
Thanks bro, for the reply.
I knew how the cutouts worked but wasn't sure how to interface the remotes. Where can I get the stuff you have pictured? Will they work with any cutout?
Thanks bro, for the reply.
I knew how the cutouts worked but wasn't sure how to interface the remotes. Where can I get the stuff you have pictured? Will they work with any cutout?
You can order the remote directly from Logisys.
The remote just replaces a manual switch, so they will work with any cutouts that use a manual switch. QTP also has a controller that does essentially the same thing, and gives you a display of percent open, but it is a lot more expensive. http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/Controller/
You can order the remote directly from Logisys.
The remote just replaces a manual switch, so they will work with any cutouts that use a manual switch. QTP also has a controller that does essentially the same thing, and gives you a display of percent open, but it is a lot more expensive. http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/Controller/
I ran the wires to my switch myself the day before. From what the guy told me, the welding on the exhaust wasnt anything special, any muffler shop should be able to do it. This guy let me kinda help since neither one of us had ever done one before. Just before to take some pics off the net with you to give him an idea of what your trying to do. The wires that go to the cutouts were ran down along the fuel line. Couldnt really figure any other way to run them, Im sure there is though. We secured them real snug with some zip ties at both ends. I ran them up through the gromet where the hood release latch goes through. When I get a chance Im gonna run the up into my console, just havent had the time though.
Do you have any pictures? what product did you go with for the cut-outs? I am pretty handy at some things, but when it comes to messin with my Z, I am not to confident. I had a hell of a time installing a halltech cold air. Took longer than the estimated 30 minutes.
This pic shows you how well they are tucked up under there, you cant even see them, didnt want to risk snagging anything.
These are the pics when I got them installed. He started off cutting a oval hole in the exhaust pipe and welded a short 3 inch pipe onto the holes and then put the cut outs on with a small down pipe to keep the hot exhaust off of the rest of the car. Used a stiff rubber pipe and ran it down the drivetrain where the cover is. Taped an end of the wires to the pipe and pulled it through. Used two zip ties at each end of the fuel lines to hold them in place. In thought its pretty simple, but it took us about 5-6 hours to do. I used the QTP cutouts. Not sure what the number is for them, but they are really helpfull. One of the mechanics at the company has a corvette as well and installed a pair of cutouts on it. If you have any questions gibe them a call.
If you would like some more pics let me know. I dont keep the car here at my house, I dont have a garage here, so it might take me a day or two to get the pics, but I dont mind. Just lemme know!
Does anyone have instructions on running the wires?. I remember someone on the forum running the wires up thru the shifter & in to the dash.
We used the remote control instead a manual toggle switch. I got power from the seat fuse connection in the fuse box under the passenger footwell. You can see pictures of where to get power by looking at the instructions on installation of the M2W relay. (OOPS! forgot this was on a C6) Ran the wire under the carpet, along the side of the tunnel next to the hand brake, and through the grommet where the brake cable goes through the floor. The wires come out in the tunnel, over the transmission, and to each cutout motor. Don't have to cut any holes for the wire or the switch since the remote opens and closes the butterflys.
Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Mar 24, 2010 at 11:31 PM.