[Z06] Hardcore weight reduction?
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 30,897
Likes: 45
From: Picking on the weakest kid in the yard.
Well, my door panel is not just plastic. It has aluminum braces, door handle, speaker grill, switches and vinyl covering it. You must have some heavy fingernails. Sure it is not a lot of weight, but it sounds like he is building a race car. Every pound makes a difference. It's certainly not something I would do to my car, but his intentions are different.
Miraculix, you may try posting this in the Drag racing section for further ideas.
Miraculix, you may try posting this in the Drag racing section for further ideas.
The point is, there is next to nothing to gain here. Yeah, you will shave a couple pounds by removing the interior panels, but if you go and fab up new panels to cover the ugly spots and wiring, you've just put the weight right back in. Now only uglier. If the car will never be returned to a street car, then maybe it's time to start removing all the wiring flopping around the interior that no longer does anything. In the pictures, there is still an HVAC controller. Ditching the entire HVAC system from the AC compressor to the heater core to the ducting will remove far, far more weight and won't result in an ugly interior with wires and cables flopping around everywhere.
Worrying about the weight difference between a stock glove box door and a carbon fiber glove box door when you have an entire procharger system hanging off the front of your engine is just bass ackwards.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,872
Likes: 7
From: Richmond VA
I'm not trying to convince the OP one way or another. I'm just trying to offer a suggestion of what he is looking to do. I agree with your statements 100%. He just asked for suggestions on how to cover those areas, and I offered up one. I would not mess with the center console or glove box at all. Either leave them in or remove them.
There are many other areas, like you mentioned, that I would target first. Carpet, headliner, visors, wheel wells, interior trim pieces, lighter suspension/brakes, etc, etc
There are many other areas, like you mentioned, that I would target first. Carpet, headliner, visors, wheel wells, interior trim pieces, lighter suspension/brakes, etc, etc
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: Sweden -
I hear many suggestions about removing the BOSE stereo and I already have (which I have also stated in a post prior to this one).
I even removed the rear speakers and put everything in a bucket to get an idea of what it all weighs and I would pretty much say that the entire BOSE system weight is equal to the weight of the door panels.
I'm not keeping it the way it looks now since it looks like rubbish, that's why I wondered if there are any replacements for the suggested parts. If not, they'll be put in again.
I couldn't agree more that a far better weight reduction would be to have the f/i engine swapped with something else but then we're talking a $20-30k (and rising) mod here. At that point I would consider approaching Pratt Miller to try and get the whole carbon fiber body and the $5000 (each) rims from the C5R, but I'm not quite there yet
I even removed the rear speakers and put everything in a bucket to get an idea of what it all weighs and I would pretty much say that the entire BOSE system weight is equal to the weight of the door panels.
I'm not keeping it the way it looks now since it looks like rubbish, that's why I wondered if there are any replacements for the suggested parts. If not, they'll be put in again.
I couldn't agree more that a far better weight reduction would be to have the f/i engine swapped with something else but then we're talking a $20-30k (and rising) mod here. At that point I would consider approaching Pratt Miller to try and get the whole carbon fiber body and the $5000 (each) rims from the C5R, but I'm not quite there yet
Last edited by Miraculix; Dec 2, 2009 at 12:36 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 33
From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
You could get Carbon Fiber body parts, not the whole body. from ACP. Full ACP C/F body in the mid $20K range
http://corvetteracebodies.com/worldc...ice%20list.htm
But CF hood, saves 12 some lbs. ~ $1900
CF Instrument panel $1200
Use Lexon windows vs glass saves 20 some lbs more if your car is a coupe.
http://corvetteracebodies.com/corvetteracebod.htm
adding lightness takes lots of money.
Last edited by AU N EGL; Dec 2, 2009 at 07:50 AM.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,946
Likes: 55
From: b.b. n.j.
I Mean either way good idea, but is it recreation or comp. Do you trailer it. My 01Z has 550+ and I drag it. It was 3200 with me in it and still went 11.0 and still has more in it. But I understand coming out of each turn you want less weight to move mass. For me giving up my interior just for a little weight NA!
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 33
From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
I Mean either way good idea, but is it recreation or comp. Do you trailer it. My 01Z has 550+ and I drag it. It was 3200 with me in it and still went 11.0 and still has more in it. But I understand coming out of each turn you want less weight to move mass. For me giving up my interior just for a little weight NA!
Best place to reduce wt is rotational wt. For each one pound removed from rotational wt is ~ 6.5 lbs of statice weight removed.
So light wt rims and tires, then flywheel.
Keeping rear wheel wt under 45 lbs helps.
My street rear wheels are 51 lbs each and my track rear wheels are 40 lbs each. That is 11 lbs per wheel or 22 lbs for rear wheels and ~ 20 for front wheels
so 42 lbs of wt removed from the wheels is ~273 lbs removed from the static wt out of the car.
Going from an iron fly wheel to an aluminum fly wheels can save 15 lbs or more of rotational wt or ~ 97.5 lbs of static wt
so going to light wt wheels and tires plus aluminum fly wheel that may be ~ 370 lbs or static wt removed
for each 100 lbs removed is ~ 1/10 sec less in a quarter or 10 hp more
on a road course that could be 1 full sec less per 3.5 mile lap.
Last edited by AU N EGL; Dec 2, 2009 at 03:28 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,946
Likes: 55
From: b.b. n.j.
When you put in the geometry it makes a lot more sense. Plus for me a cage is going to have to happen. So in reality I should be thinking about weight myself And Really doesn't matter Rec or comp. Because to each his own! Thanks
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,742
Likes: 43
From: Color my life with the chaos of trouble.
Track days as in non-competitive???? If so, why bother with all of that stuff??
But, opinions aside, here is a very lightweight solution from my C4. Obviously not exactly the same but you get the point. You can make about anything out of aluminum, but like others have said, the factory plastic is so light that you are doing a whole lot of work for no gain.
But, opinions aside, here is a very lightweight solution from my C4. Obviously not exactly the same but you get the point. You can make about anything out of aluminum, but like others have said, the factory plastic is so light that you are doing a whole lot of work for no gain.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,184
Likes: 3
From: KADS- If it has wings or an engine, I can break it. Dallas TX
Your race car still has carpet and trim panels and Hvac controls and vents, door glass, window molding, etc. If your gonna butcher it, might as well get the sawz all and really butch it. cut out the inner door panels.
should have weighed it 1st, then start hacking.
Dual purpose cars don't do either very well, very uncomfortable on the street. and you will get outran by dedicated track car at the track.
Been there done that. Live and learn.
good luck on the resale.
P.S. Race cars don't have power windows. or windows at all for that matter.
should have weighed it 1st, then start hacking.
Dual purpose cars don't do either very well, very uncomfortable on the street. and you will get outran by dedicated track car at the track.
Been there done that. Live and learn.
good luck on the resale.
P.S. Race cars don't have power windows. or windows at all for that matter.
Last edited by 2K3Z06; Dec 2, 2009 at 05:52 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 2,365
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver BC
What seats do you have? Those make a HUGE difference. Some racing seats only way 16-18 lbs. Then bolt in the passenger seat (that doesn't have to be adjusted anyways) and use a light manual rail for the driver. Will take off at least 50 lbs overall!
Much more than all your plastic panels you took off
Much more than all your plastic panels you took off
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: Sweden -
What seats do you have? Those make a HUGE difference. Some racing seats only way 16-18 lbs. Then bolt in the passenger seat (that doesn't have to be adjusted anyways) and use a light manual rail for the driver. Will take off at least 50 lbs overall! Much more than all your plastic panels you took off
Much more than all your plastic panels you took offWill make a huge difference, especially in driveability on the track
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,969
Likes: 8
From: Champaign IL
Getting down to 3200 with a 200 lb driver in is not that difficult. ( 3000 net)Challenges comes when you add the roll cage for safety.
Best place to reduce wt is rotational wt. For each one pound removed from rotational wt is ~ 6.5 lbs of statice weight removed.
So light wt rims and tires, then flywheel.
Keeping rear wheel wt under 45 lbs helps.
My street rear wheels are 51 lbs each and my track rear wheels are 40 lbs each. That is 11 lbs per wheel or 22 lbs for rear wheels and ~ 20 for front wheels
so 42 lbs of wt removed from the wheels is ~273 lbs removed from the static wt out of the car.
Going from an iron fly wheel to an aluminum fly wheels can save 15 lbs or more of rotational wt or ~ 97.5 lbs of static wt
so going to light wt wheels and tires plus aluminum fly wheel that may be ~ 370 lbs or static wt removed
for each 100 lbs removed is ~ 1/10 sec less in a quarter or 10 hp more
on a road course that could be 1 full sec less per 3.5 mile lap.
Best place to reduce wt is rotational wt. For each one pound removed from rotational wt is ~ 6.5 lbs of statice weight removed.
So light wt rims and tires, then flywheel.
Keeping rear wheel wt under 45 lbs helps.
My street rear wheels are 51 lbs each and my track rear wheels are 40 lbs each. That is 11 lbs per wheel or 22 lbs for rear wheels and ~ 20 for front wheels
so 42 lbs of wt removed from the wheels is ~273 lbs removed from the static wt out of the car.
Going from an iron fly wheel to an aluminum fly wheels can save 15 lbs or more of rotational wt or ~ 97.5 lbs of static wt
so going to light wt wheels and tires plus aluminum fly wheel that may be ~ 370 lbs or static wt removed
for each 100 lbs removed is ~ 1/10 sec less in a quarter or 10 hp more
on a road course that could be 1 full sec less per 3.5 mile lap.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: Sweden -
Your race car still has carpet and trim panels and Hvac controls and vents, door glass, window molding, etc. If your gonna butcher it, might as well get the sawz all and really butch it. cut out the inner door panels.
should have weighed it 1st, then start hacking.
Dual purpose cars don't do either very well, very uncomfortable on the street. and you will get outran by dedicated track car at the track.
Been there done that. Live and learn.
good luck on the resale.
P.S. Race cars don't have power windows. or windows at all for that matter.
should have weighed it 1st, then start hacking.
Dual purpose cars don't do either very well, very uncomfortable on the street. and you will get outran by dedicated track car at the track.
Been there done that. Live and learn.
good luck on the resale.
P.S. Race cars don't have power windows. or windows at all for that matter.
OT but I think you're wrong
This is my friends street legal car in which he has broken alot of best ever lap times with this year, including the Carrera Cup times.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
From: Northern Virginia
OP sorry to go back to it but it's a huge weight issue that can be dealt with. You said it would get expensive getting a new motor that makes 550 n/a but I don't think it would be that bad. I don't know what motor is in the car but even if it's a stock ls6 (which I doubt it is) you could probably get at least couple of grand for it, then you sell the blower that's another couple of grand. Your short block is already paid for and then some. You could do a stroked ls2 and make close to 550 and it really wouldn't cost THAT much if you shopped smart and bought some stuff for the top end used on this and other forums.
