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thanks for all the help guys, i cleared all the codes but still no luck , i replaced the battery with a advance auto gold battery, the car will start, but the sevice collum lock keeps comming up on the display and the fuel shutoff is stoping me from driving the car,will the collum lock bypass help, i guess the gm fix is allready done because i can turn the wheel with the key out
Can you fire up the engine and let it idle? If so let it idle for 30 or so minutes. The computer might reset the lock issue.
Keep us posted. It has me stummped
thanks for all the help guys, i cleared all the codes but still no luck , i replaced the battery with a advance auto gold battery, the car will start, but the sevice collum lock keeps comming up on the display and the fuel shutoff is stoping me from driving the car,will the collum lock bypass help, i guess the gm fix is allready done because i can turn the wheel with the key out
You said in your first post that you do not have a working Key Fob. Do you have the stock Key Fob or have do you have an aftermarket alarm system and remote? I know this may sound crazy but do you have an extra key? The resistor chip could be dirty and with the low battery condition the BCM might have read it wrong. You can clean the resistor chip with a pencil eraser or a little rubbing alcohol. Some early Colum Lock Bypass dealer repairs, especially on 6 speed cars, only fixed the column lock solenoid problem by removing the locking plate. If you car was serviced by a GM dealer there should be a campaign completed sticker on the driver’s door. Any GM Dealer can run a Warranty Service Report or VIR.
Disconnect the new battery and charge it overnight. Reconnect the battery and try this, if you receive the message “Pull Key and Wait 10 Sec.” it means the ECL and the relay are NOT synchronized. To synchronize, turn the ignition switch to the OFF position and remove the key from the switch (lock cylinder). Wait a MIMINUM of 10-20 seconds, re-insert the key, and turn to the ON position (Do NOT START the car), wait 30 seconds. This should have synchronized the ECL and the relay and you can start the car.
i disconected the battery and re conected, put the key in and got the pull key message,i pulled key and waited 30 seconds then put key back in turned on but did not start for 4 minuets while the key was on i made sure it was not throwing any new codes, i then started the car and iam letting it run for about 30 min hoping the fuel shut off will reset itself, i will post again later ,thanks for all the help everyone
i disconected the battery and re conected, put the key in and got the pull key message,i pulled key and waited 30 seconds then put key back in turned on but did not start for 4 minuets while the key was on i made sure it was not throwing any new codes, i then started the car and iam letting it run for about 30 min hoping the fuel shut off will reset itself, i will post again later ,thanks for all the help everyone
During this process of the last few days what codes were thrown?
I hope the above works. You got me stummped without any codes to go by.
i deleted all the codes last night,and i did not write any of them down first,i started the car this morning after first disconecting the battery and re conecting it,i got the pull key and wait so i did that. when i put the key back in i let it sit in the on position for a good 2 minuets before starting, i then started the car and let it run for 30 minuets befor tring to drive it , no luck as soon as i put in gear and let the clutch off the fuel shut off cuts it off, i am tring it again righr now,letting it run for awhile, my queston now is if i buy the collum bypass with the fuel shutoff activated will it fix the problem?
Well I'm sorry to hear of your battery troubles. Since you had a Optima Red Top, (which do not sustain a deep discharge well, But Optima does makes a battery for this purpose, the yellow top) But if the red top went all the way down to zip, it's junk and you need a new battery. But one thing You really need to look at Is the battery compartment and see if the rotten egg smell, is really the smell of sulfer from a leaking battery. And if so right under the battery is the wiring harness, the PCM and some other things you don't want to go south on you.
Take your 'New' battery and have it charged, and if everything is OK in the battery compartment, then re-install the battery and drive it for a few days and if you go to Autozone, they will put a 'Load test' on the battery and if it passes, you fine. Anyway Good luck !
The following is from the Electronic Column Lock Service Bulletin: Cycle the ECL. Depending on the position of the relay and the ECL locking bolt when the key is first turned on, you may receive the message "Pull key and wait 10 sec." upon key-on. If you receive the warning message, follow the instructions, key-off, and remove the key from the ignition. Wait a full ten seconds, re-insert the key and turn the key to the ON position. From this point, the ECL and relay should be synchronized
PM me with your Email address & I will send you pdf file with the 3 service bulletins that address this issue. They may help set you in the right directionto get this resolved
i had to go back to work on a tug boat, the fuel shutoff is still cutting the car off as soon as i let off the clutch, when i get home i am going to order the bypass from thunder racing
FWIW, I just read that there are only four companies who build auto batteries, Deka, Interstate, AC Delco/delphi and Johnson controls. they rebadge them for who ever the customer is, but they all come from only 4 companies? I did a Google search for auto batteries. I don't know, go figure?