battery Problems and more






Take your 'New' battery and have it charged, and if everything is OK in the battery compartment, then re-install the battery and drive it for a few days and if you go to Autozone, they will put a 'Load test' on the battery and if it passes, you fine. Anyway Good luck !
Last edited by killain; Jan 27, 2010 at 06:29 PM. Reason: spelling
By the way, do you know if the car has the column lock bypass installed?






Last edited by killain; Jan 29, 2010 at 07:59 PM. Reason: spelling
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
p.s. DO NOT TAKE THE CAR TO A CHEVY DEALERSHIP!!!


First you left an AGM battery for 42 days and it discharged. This car eats batteries so that's no surprise. Any battery would have been similarly affected.
First clear the codes and make sure the steering wheel is freed up.
The bad news is that the Optima Red Top being an AGM does not take kindly to being run down to zero. Its dead so all your efforts are almost certainly in vain. You need anew battery and if you leave it that long between drives and don't fit a battery tender, get a lead acid replacement which will be more tolerant. Better still, get a tender as well.
The column lock problems are almost certainly a spin off from a weak battery so don't do anything there until you've fitted a new battery. I'd bet $$$ that the problem will go away once you have a fully charged battery in there.
The other good news is that AGM batteries wont leak so there are no worries there. You just killed it.
Edit:
Just re-read the thread and I see it was a Yellow Top. That's unusual as they are more tolerant ( a deep cycle battery) and it should have been better able to cope. That said, my advice stands but I'd contact Optima for a replacement..........and get a battery tender.
Last edited by DeeGee; Jan 28, 2010 at 03:53 PM.
First you left an AGM battery for 42 days and it discharged. this car eats batteries so thats no surprise. Any battery would have been similarly affected.
The bad news is that the Optima Red Top being an AGM does not take kindly to being run down to zero. Its dead so all your efforts are almost certainly in vain. You need anew battery and if you leave it that long between drives and don't fit a battery tender, get a lead acid replacement which will be more tolerant. Better still, get a tender as well.
The column lock problems are almost certainly a spin off from a weak battery so don't do anything there until you've fitted a new battery. id bet loads og $$$ that the problem will go away once you have a decent battery in there.
The other good news is that AGM batteries wont leak so there are no worries there. You just killed it.
I think he already replaced the battery with the new one. I am just curious on what codes are showing up in the DIC. I would reset all current and non-current codes and try again
The "diagnostic display" mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the "reset" button to turn off any warning messages
3) Press and hold "options" , press "fuel" four times within a 10-second period.
When first engaged the on-board diagnostics go into an "automatic" mode.
The computer will show two kinds of codes, "current" and "history," designated "C" or "H".
A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the system whose module is displaying data.
A history code indicates a past problem.
When the screen displays "manual diagnostics," select the desired module by pressing the "options" button
to go forward or the "trip" button to go back.
Press "gauges" to go forward or
"fuel" to go back for each code under a module.
First you left an AGM battery for 42 days and it discharged. this car eats batteries so thats no surprise. Any battery would have been similarly affected.
The bad news is that the Optima Red Top being an AGM does not take kindly to being run down to zero. Its dead so all your efforts are almost certainly in vain. You need anew battery and if you leave it that long between drives and don't fit a battery tender, get a lead acid replacement which will be more tolerant. Better still, get a tender as well.
The column lock problems are almost certainly a spin off from a weak battery so don't do anything there until you've fitted a new battery. id bet loads og $$$ that the problem will go away once you have a decent battery in there.
The other good news is that AGM batteries wont leak so there are no worries there. You just killed it.
I think he already replaced the battery with the new one. I am just curious on what codes are showing up in the DIC. I would reset all current and non-current codes and try again
The "diagnostic display" mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the "reset" button to turn off any warning messages
3) Press and hold "options" , press "fuel" four times within a 10-second period.
When first engaged the on-board diagnostics go into an "automatic" mode.
The computer will show two kinds of codes, "current" and "history," designated "C" or "H".
A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the system whose module is displaying data.
A history code indicates a past problem.
When the screen displays "manual diagnostics," select the desired module by pressing the "options" button
to go forward or the "trip" button to go back.
Press "gauges" to go forward or
"fuel" to go back for each code under a module.
http://www.stengel.net/diccodes.htm
Last edited by fireman591; Jan 28, 2010 at 03:57 PM.


The "diagnostic display" mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the "reset" button to turn off any warning messages
3) Press and hold "options" , press "fuel" four times within a 10-second period.
When first engaged the on-board diagnostics go into an "automatic" mode.
The computer will show two kinds of codes, "current" and "history," designated "C" or "H".
A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the system whose module is displaying data.
A history code indicates a past problem.
When the screen displays "manual diagnostics," select the desired module by pressing the "options" button
to go forward or the "trip" button to go back.
Press "gauges" to go forward or
"fuel" to go back for each code under a module.
A tender will keep it charged if theres a drain so he can clear the column lock related problem. If there is a drain (seat motor/switches?) than he needs to identify where that problem is and fix it.
In sum my advice is:
Battery being drained (time - 42 days - or electrics problem?)
Free steering column ( caused by bad battery)
Replace battery (refund?)
Fit tender to give time to troubleshhoot (Check Bill Curlee's electrical sticky)
Identify any drain and fix
Keep using tender (for a weekend warrior)
A tender will keep it charged if theres a drain so he can clear the column lock related problem. If there is a drain (seat motor/switches?) than he needs to identify where that problem is and fix it.
In sum my advice is:
Battery being drained (time - 42 days - or electrics problem?)
Free steering column ( caused by bad battery)
Replace battery (refund?)
Fit tender to give time to troubleshhoot (Check Bill Curlee's electrical sticky)
Identify any drain and fix
Keep using tender (for a weekend warrior)


I've had a bad Optima but I killed it by 8 weeks on the boat to England. I'm convinced most of the problems are caused by too long between rides and infrequent use. But I cant prove it. My Optima Yellow Top has lasted 3 years (on a tender) and my sons Red Top survived 8 weeks on the boat and is still going strong after 6 years.
I guess its a lottery













