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Here is the important part, change it every 3 to 5000 miles, sooner if driven hard or in dirty environments.
So you're saying that all that hard work that the GM engineers put into the oil life monitor is useless? Wrong! Changing synthetic oil every 3k is old school thinking, you can follow your oil life monitor and it's been proven that you'll get long engine life this way. No need to waste time and money changing your oil long before it's needed.
I change my oil when the oil life monitor hits zero and my oil analysis reports have shown the oil to still be suitable for continued use, with very little contamination in it.
Patman, no I'm not saying that, I too also use the DIC indicator, but as a general rule, and, yes old school, 3 to 5000 is a good time for oil change if driven normal driving. The C5 is my first vehicle that has a oil change indicator, so I do use it, this is my second oil change and I had the car 2 years, purchased with 53K miles and now has 59k, so the DIC said about the same miles, between 3k before it counted down to like 3% left.. My other vehicles were dumb, they never talked to me like the vette does...and I do listen...
Used oil analysis results for this engine (Jun 07 was Mobil 1 with AC Delco filter, the remaining samples AMSOIL 0w30 with AMSOIL EAO32 filter. For those that haven't seen these before, wear metals for an LSx engine are predominantly aluminum, copper, iron and lead. Cadillac CTS-V Used Oil Analysis - AMSOIL 0w30
Used oil analysis results for this engine (Jun 07 was Mobil 1 with AC Delco filter, the remaining samples AMSOIL 0w30 with AMSOIL EAO32 filter. For those that haven't seen these before, wear metals for an LSx engine are predominantly aluminum, copper, iron and lead. Cadillac CTS-V Used Oil Analysis - AMSOIL 0w30
I wonder what would an oil analysis for Mobil 1 have looked like in comparison in the same engine. I only use Mobil 1 and have considered Amsoil.
Actually, my 2004 owner's manual, on page 5-15 plainly states that you can use 10W-30 if it is going to be 0*F or above. It does indicate that you should never use 10W-40 or 20W-50.
Taking the recommendation of one of the best LS engine builders in the country I've been using Shell Rotella T in all my cars, trucks , motorcycles and even my lawn mowers for years..There is a couple of oil additives and I can find out which ones they are to help prevent bearing and cylinder wall wear......
But don't take my word for it just ask any over the road trucker who uses it in his big rig with over 500,000 without a overhaul which oil he would use...
Taking the recommendation of one of the best LS engine builders in the country I've been using Shell Rotella T in all my cars, trucks , motorcycles and even my lawn mowers for years..There is a couple of oil additives and I can find out which ones they are to help prevent bearing and cylinder wall wear......
But don't take my word for it just ask any over the road trucker who uses it in his big rig with over 500,000 without a overhaul which oil he would use...
They changed Rotella T because of all the hippies so now it's not as good as it was in the past.
"As shown on the viscosity chart, SAE 5W30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W-30 if it is going to be 0 degrees F or above..."(thanks kp1)
On second thought, you may be talking about the "Chinese GM"
Taking the recommendation of one of the best LS engine builders in the country I've been using Shell Rotella T in all my cars, trucks , motorcycles and even my lawn mowers for years..There is a couple of oil additives and I can find out which ones they are to help prevent bearing and cylinder wall wear......
But don't take my word for it just ask any over the road trucker who uses it in his big rig with over 500,000 without a overhaul which oil he would use...
Rotella is a good oil however there is a big difference in the design of a big rig with a diesel engine compared to our C5s! So you can't compare the two. Besides, just about any oil is going to get a big rig to 500k quite easily. Diesel engines driven on the highway will last way longer than 500k without batting an eye. Having many many GALLONS of oil in their sump certainly helps in that regard too.
Actually, my 2004 owner's manual, on page 5-15 plainly states that you can use 10W-30 if it is going to be 0*F or above. It does indicate that you should never use 10W-40 or 20W-50.
Here in Houston, we see over 100 degree temps quite often.
They changed Rotella T because of all the hippies so now it's not as good as it was in the past.
I use German Castrol aka Castrol Syntec 0W-30
People were likely recommending diesel oils because they had a higher limit for phosphorus than API SM/ILSAC GF-4 automotive oils. Phosphorus, along with zinc in a compound frequently referred to as ZDDP (Zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate).
Unfortunately, the API has made similar restrictions on the newest diesel specification, CJ-4, has they have on API SM automotive oils. According to the new specs for CJ-4, the oil must contain lower levels of ZDDP, Calcium and Phosphorous, it must also not have a TBN any higher than 9. TBN is a measure of the oil’s alkaline reserve, which is used for fighting off the damaging effects of acid. Most diesel oils on the market today are formulated to meet CJ-4 specifications. CJ-4 limits phosphorus to 1200 ppm, whereas the previous diesel spec, CI-4+, limited phosphorus to 1400 ppm. For comparison, the automotive spec for API SM/ILSAC GF-4 30 grade oils is 800 ppm phosphorus.
Short story - your Shell Rotella T doesn't have the anti-wear additives it once had.