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So apparently I'm back to square one. I was driving home from work and of course got the same 4 codes. I don't know what else to do. I need to have this thing fixed this week as I need to smog it so I can do the registration which is due saturday...so I don't know. I'm to the point where I might need to take it in to a shop, but I hate to do that since I know this is something I can fix...assuming I figure out the problem. I guess we'll see...
I know you checked the fuse for the 02 heater circuit but change the fuse anyway
I have had a couple go bad that still look good. Had one blow and melt back together so it tested good with a test light but was not carrying the load.
I know you checked the fuse for the 02 heater circuit but change the fuse anyway
I have had a couple go bad that still look good. Had one blow and melt back together so it tested good with a test light but was not carrying the load.
I had the same thought. I changed it to be on the safe side.
So here's the deal. I found the ground and cleaned that as well. It looked spotless, but I cleaned it anyway, and made sure everything was on tight. Drove it to the smog place, and of course it popped codes, so my car failed. Emissions were fine, just the computer failed. So I don't know what else I can do. Thank you again for the help, but I think it might be something above and beyond my abilities. Guess I'm not driving the vette for a while....
Are you sure you found the correct splice pack per the description and picture I referenced in my PM to you?
Also, did you drive the car, start the motor then shut it off several times? I think the MIL won't clear until it starts three times with no codes being set. The code is logged as an H code after the first time diagnostics passes. It takes 40 cyles to clear the H code.
If you clear the codes, are they still coming back?
Last edited by Greg_E; Jun 24, 2010 at 08:19 PM.
Reason: Added info regarding fault condition.
I am positive that I found the correct codes, and I did clear out the codes. But they do come back on occasionally. There is no rhyme or reason to it...sometimes they're there, other times not. The only thing the tech at the smog place said was that there was something wrong with the computer. I'm hoping this doesn't mean a PCM issue...also as he was testing it, the car freaked out. Service Traction Control came on, Service ABS came on. Check Gauges and my fuel gauge went to empty even though I had half a tank. But when I restarted my car everything was normal and no new codes were stored...I'm so confused
After 51 posts, I do not see any mention of using a multimeter. Greg E gave you valuable info in post #29, so what has been done except for physical inspection?
Have you checked the resistance to ground at the O2 sensor harness connectors?
Have you checked voltage at the O2 sensor harness connectors?
Are there any more codes that you have not disclosed?
Yeah, I have not tested anything with a multimeter. Honestly not sure what to do. I was thinking about this earlier, that I have been having an HVAC issue lately as well. I wondered if they were related. My HVAC display doesn't always work, and when the display is out, the unit doesn't do anything. No fan, ac, or heat. However when the display is working, and the HVAC operates as normal, the O2 sensors never throw codes...possible relationship or just a coincidence? Also there are no other codes listed in my DIC.
I'm sorry I have not read all 52 posts...but problems with HVAC have in the past been traced back to a leaky battery, which then gets acid on the HVAC wiring harness under the battery. There are tons of wire looms under the battery. The malfunctioning HVAC could just be a clue.
I'm sorry I have not read all 52 posts...but problems with HVAC have in the past been traced back to a leaky battery, which then gets acid on the HVAC wiring harness under the battery. There are tons of wire looms under the battery. The malfunctioning HVAC could just be a clue.
Has this already been mentioned?
No this has not, however this is something I did not consider due to having the Optima Red Top. I was under the impression that these never leaked. Am I wrong?
I am positive that I found the correct codes, and I did clear out the codes. But they do come back on occasionally. There is no rhyme or reason to it...sometimes they're there, other times not. The only thing the tech at the smog place said was that there was something wrong with the computer. I'm hoping this doesn't mean a PCM issue...also as he was testing it, the car freaked out. Service Traction Control came on, Service ABS came on. Check Gauges and my fuel gauge went to empty even though I had half a tank. But when I restarted my car everything was normal and no new codes were stored...I'm so confused
O.k. the fact that the guages freaked leads to another possibility for all your issues. . . Ignition Switch. When the contacts in the switch start going bad you will get check engine and guages freaking out. Question, at any point did you have to try more than once for the car to start?
I'm sorry I have not read all 52 posts...but problems with HVAC have in the past been traced back to a leaky battery, which then gets acid on the HVAC wiring harness under the battery. There are tons of wire looms under the battery. The malfunctioning HVAC could just be a clue.
Has this already been mentioned?
I'm not familiar with this "HVAC wiring harness" you speak of. What is a common problem with the AC, is due to vacuum lines (within the wire bundle) that are damaged as a result of a leaking battery. In any case, it does not lead to complete failure of the control head.
O.k. the fact that the guages freaked leads to another possibility for all your issues. . . Ignition Switch. When the contacts in the switch start going bad you will get check engine and guages freaking out. Question, at any point did you have to try more than once for the car to start?
Bingo Sir ! Excellent call. The ignition switch, from pin C of connector C1, circuit 300 feeds the HVAC fuse #18 (passenger footwell), O2 Heater minifuse #15(underhood fusebox), and the ABS minifuse #5(underhood fusebox).
To the OP, ALWAYS disclose ALL problems up from with your first post. Do not assume they are unrelated. It took 50+ posts(and 10 days) for you to disclose the AC and ABS issues, and guess what?...there is a common denominator....the ignition switch.
For future issues, post up in the tech section instead of general.
Consult the thread below for ignition switch repair.
In fairness to the OP, the ABS, TCS, and gages going crazy just happened the other day when he took it for emission testing. I've already covered posting in the tech section with him.
Lucky131969, I knew you didn't hang out much in General, which is why I sent you the PM with the link to here. When he mentioned the problems he encountered at the emissions station, I had him check the battery voltage at the DIC and with the engine on, and it was only 12.0 volts,so I had him check the battery condition. The AC problem was the final clue. In any case, it sounds like pcfred and yourself have this nailed.
Now get that switch repaired and get that C5 back on the road.
In fairness to the OP, the ABS, TCS, and gages going crazy just happened the other day when he took it for emission testing. I've already covered posting in the tech section with him.
Lucky131969, I knew you didn't hang out much in General, which is why I sent you the PM with the link to here. When he mentioned the problems he encountered at the emissions station, I had him check the battery voltage at the DIC and with the engine on, and it was only 12.0 volts,so I had him check the battery condition. The AC problem was the final clue. In any case, it sounds like pcfred and yourself have this nailed.
Now get that switch repaired and get that C5 back on the road.
And buy a new battery. I know everybody loves their Red Top but I have seen endless posts with troubles when they go south.