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The weak link wasn't a big surprise. But to the person who did the work I have no idea why they did this. Apparently it still has the stock timing chain. Not even an ls2 or aftermarket heavy duty chain. Stock. The guys at the garage said that was the reason for it. Guess it was something I'd never know unless I took it apart myself so I couldn't have seen this one coming.
The car had a G5X3 cam in it. Came out in one piece but has some scuffs on it. So I have no clue if that can be reused.
I guess now I have to pick, stock or aftermarket rods/pistons/head.
If I choose to get maybe an ls2/ls3 I know I will pay more but I kinda like the reassuring thought of having a warranty with the motor.
They said the block is most likely reusable after looking at it. They'd have to bore it out but I could keep it. The crank should be fine as long as its rebalanced. Heads are gone.
It seems like a lot of people are good with stock rods/pistons for the low 400 range and just get aftermarket heads but having all the machine work might just add up to cost as much as a crate engine maybe if i sold all my reusable parts to try and get some money to break the difference even.
gawd! Worst case scenario. If it were mine I'd be short block shopping and maybe get some decent used take-off LS6 or LS2 heads from someone who went aftermarket.
The weak link wasn't a big surprise. But to the person who did the work I have no idea why they did this. Apparently it still has the stock timing chain. Not even an ls2 or aftermarket heavy duty chain. Stock. The guys at the garage said that was the reason for it. Guess it was something I'd never know unless I took it apart myself so I couldn't have seen this one coming.
The car had a G5X3 cam in it. Came out in one piece but has some scuffs on it. So I have no clue if that can be reused.
I guess now I have to pick, stock or aftermarket rods/pistons/head.
If I choose to get maybe an ls2/ls3 I know I will pay more but I kinda like the reassuring thought of having a warranty with the motor.
They said the block is most likely reusable after looking at it. They'd have to bore it out but I could keep it. The crank should be fine as long as its rebalanced. Heads are gone.
It seems like a lot of people are good with stock rods/pistons for the low 400 range and just get aftermarket heads but having all the machine work might just add up to cost as much as a crate engine maybe if i sold all my reusable parts to try and get some money to break the difference even.
This is just the scenario I was trying to prepare you for in my earlier post. #1) If you are interested in the cammed engine like you had, you must be very certain of why this one blew. Post elsewhere and call reputable builders and think and make sure that you know why. You can't go "fix" this with another chain if the dampener is wrong. This has happened to others...multiple race engine chains blown because of the dampener.
#2) To even consider a rebuild, you have to be sure that the proposed shop will do a great job and stay on cost. You are basically starting with just the block which is not worth much...it almost has to be cheaper to get the crate. I already went through this with a machine shop that was reputable...you go in there and they keep adding things to the job. Things that they say "we won't know until we see it". Don't even consider a rebuild unless they sign up to a fixed price. I bet they won't.
It's clear your best bet by far is a crate motor. I hope you see the wisdom in this.
Edit: btw, my rebuild took a month just for the shortblock work. If you need this car running soon, your choice is made for you--crate it now.
[QUOTE=sothpaw2Also--you don't want to dump any more money into this then you have to for the not-so-obvious reason of insurance. Take it from me--SUV run over my C4 2 days after expensive rebuild + new clutch--insurance companies won't give you anything for the money you spend.
[/QUOTE]
I have American Family Insurance and they have a program for special modifications to cars that covers modifications. I dont remember what the percentage is, but I just had to take picures of the mods and provide reciepts for them to take the money I spent into consideration. Yea, I pay a little more per month, but I think its worth it even to get part of my money back in the case of a total or non recoverable theft situation.
I remember the guy at the shop said it had an aftermarket pulley when I first brought it in. Forgot to look today since I was so busy looking at the carnage left.
Building the motor with used parts would save but it seems like it may take too long to collect, have a shop take it all in to assemble and charge me more than expected in the end.
If my ignition, injectors, and throttle body would bolt directly to this ls3 crate motor I think it may be a good route, I think I would need some adapters for the injectors and throttle body but curious if the ls6 coils would work fine.
The motor costs about the same as a ls6. I've read about the reluctor situation needing a converter box, many said its worth the extra money to have the crank pulled and wheels swapped because of all the problems people have had with them. Does anyone know how much extra that would cost?
Just make sure you do your homework if you go with a LS2/3. I know several forum members have done the swap, so maybe track them down to make sure you know what you're getting into.
Good luck
Cadi crate LS6, swap in your old oil pan (if still good), and leave the stock internals alone on this motor. Your choices are cheap, fast and reliable...and you can only pick two.
I remember the guy at the shop said it had an aftermarket pulley when I first brought it in. Forgot to look today since I was so busy looking at the carnage left.
Aftermarket pulley is what I'm talking about. Go over to the A&R section. Several running the ASP pulley/dampener have blown numerous timing chains. This is probably your culprit. Do not rebuild anything until you pull that thing and find out what it is. If you go crate, it's all stock so you won't have to worry about this.
have you CALLED OR ORDERED ONE? Other places web sites say the same thing, until you try to order one.
back ordered is the usual answer
my response was to CONFIRM what other post stated concerning the lack of availability and pricing if available for his budget.
*This is a Cadillac CTS-V LS6 Engine. It will work in a C5 Corvette but the oil pan will need to be changed. These are getting hard to find and GM has stopped producing LS6's so get it now while you can!
I would basically have to buy an ls3 intake, rails, injectors, and throttle body then get the adapters to allow me to plug them in.
Only problem I found about getting this ls3 motor was the thought of having a warranty on the motor but they will void it since this motor is not going into a 2008+ c6 vette. He asked me for my vin and said I wouldnt be granted the warranty which kinda made me not want the motor as badly and just have the ls6 block I currently have to use for a rebuild.
The guy told me today that the balancer was an aftermarket aluminum unit, not sure what but he said he has a used ati damper or I could switch to a stock unit if i wanted to rebuild the motor.
Guess I have to rethink my plans since either path I go now wont have a warranty, the ls6 on the web site doesnt list if it has a warranty.
Does anyone know where you might be able to purchase an ls6 shortblock?
Last edited by seminoles2005; May 11, 2011 at 02:08 AM.
The guy told me today that the balancer was an aftermarket aluminum unit, not sure what but he said he has a used ati damper or I could switch to a stock unit if i wanted to rebuild the motor.
Does anyone know where you might be able to purchase an ls6 shortblock?
So it is the balancer at the root of your issue. Be sure to replace it with either a stock unit (only if you are going with a stock engine like stock LS6 or stock LS3) or good quality aftermarket unit with proven performance for your application (ATI is all I know of...whatever your final combo, research it and ask in the A&R section).
Remember if you don't fix the balancer issue that your next engine will throw its timing chain too, no matter how good a chain.
I recommend Powerbond balancers. They're reasonably priced, and far more reliable than the stock LS6 one. I've had a %25 UD one, and now have a stock size for my SC application. ATI dampners have an excellent reputation, but are spendy. On the motor issue; we have several vendors in the list to your left, that can build you a motor anyway you want, and even do warranties, if that's important to you.
That pic makes me sick.... I remember doing that in an Fbody once... I literally wanted to puke! Insure the block is good... A "hairline" crack could cause MAJOR prob's.. ask me how i know..
Yeah, the guys at the garage were having a good laugh about it, taking pictures to send to friends and what not, of the 6 years I abused the 4g63 motors I never blew one up. The first corvette I get I do it within 6 months.....
But heres some pictures of the mystery wheel. Has no real specific markings, I don't think its the stock one either.
Also I'm curious if the cam can be rebuilt that was in the car. Parts of the lobe seemed to have the metal scratched off. Is this cam just paper weight or could it be fixed and used again possibly?
Yeah, the guys at the garage were having a good laugh about it, taking pictures to send to friends and what not, of the 6 years I abused the 4g63 motors I never blew one up. The first corvette I get I do it within 6 months.....
Just keep in mind you didn't blow up a stock LS6; you seem to have blown up a poorly modified one. There are many people running these engines reliably with a lot more power than you had.
There was a period of time that many Comp brand cams had problems with results like yours has. I think you have a car with the crappy ASP balancer, with defective Comp cam combos, you lucky devil. DO NOT try and reuse that cam. I'd replace PRs, lifters, chain, cam, and rockers, too. Oil pump while you're at it.