A few months ago the battery in my C5 died and I had to jump start it. Since then the trunk release button does not work. I am talking about the remote key and the button on the dash- both dont work.

I tried to listen in near the trunk lock and cant hear any movement when I press the trunk open button on the remote key.

any ideas?

is it a fuse?

help appreciated.

 

Check fuse #26 here:

The instrument panel fuse
block is located on the
passenger’s side of
the vehicle, under the
instrument panel and
under the toe-board.

That fuse controls the trunk/hatch release.

 

Thanks for the tip.

Checked the fuse. It is fine. I swapped the trunk fuse with driver seat control fuse and it worked fine. So it is not the fuse.

Problem still exists.

 

Does the button on the dash open it?
If so, and the remote unlocks the doors the button for the trunk must be broken (unusable).

If the remote doesn't work on the foors either, re program the remote.

 

The button on the dash does NOT open it.
The button on the remote does NOT open it either.
The door unlock and lock buttons on the remote work okay.

Does this mean the trunk lock is broken?

 

Do you have a spare key fob? Have you reprogrammed the key fob? Do you know someone that has one like yours, maybe you could try theirs. Easiest way to reprogram yours is to hold the lock & unlock buttons at the same time(about 15-20 sec.), when your horn blows, it's programed. I would try that & another key fob before I ruled anything out. Those two would be a quick process of elimination.

tracer1

 

no luck with this either

 

It is not key fob. They trunk button on the dash does not work either.

I am trying to figure out what could be wrong so that I can fix it. The only way I can open it is using the manual trunk release cord.

 

If it isn't the key fob & the button doesn't work, then you have a bad relay.

tracer1

 

Can I DIY fix the relay? Any pointers would be helpful?

 

You can extend the pull cord to the rear of the driver's seat until you get the remote problem solved. At least you will have easy access to the trunk.

 

Gene Culley @Gmparts Warehouse would be a good place to start. Dealer may have one, but pricey, maybe. Don't know about the auto stores, but could check anyway. In the meantime, use seabright's way, that will work til you find a relay.

tracer1

 

There is a procedure for repositioning the striker plate but if you're trunk is opening with the manual cord it doesn't sound like this is your problem. Like the others, it sounds electrical to me. I'll dig out the wiring diagram to see if theres anything obvious. Here's the pther procedure FWIW.

Deck/Trunk Lid Does Not Pop Up Enough When Release Button Is Used - kw 5.7 body deck door electrical information inoperative intermittent keyless lid lock operation panel performance power rear #PI01660 - (01/19/2004)
Deck/Trunk Lid Does Not Pop Up Enough When Release Button Is Used

.

When servicing the vehicle with the VIN you entered, the following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the described symptoms.
Condition/Concern:

Deck/Trunk lid does not pop up enough when release button is used.

Corvette (Y-Body) 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001 trunk lid does not pop up when released.

There is a tension spring that is supposed to pop/push up the rear lid when released. This spring is supposed to contact the bottom of the U-shaped striker when the trunk is closed. When this condition occurs, the spring is riding up on the side of the striker. There may even be a witness mark on the underside of the striker and/or lid. The attaching holes for the striker that mounts to the underside of the deck lid needs to be slotted approximately 3 mm (enough to reposition the striker). Generally the striker must be moved towards the front of the car.
Recommendation/Instructions:

The problem is that the spring, (part of the latch) that pops the trunk open, has come out of position and rather then hitting the horizontal part of the striker (the part that is mounted on the underside of the trunk lid), it is contacting the vertical portion of the striker. The solution is to reposition the striker on the trunk lid so that the latch spring can only contact the horizontal portion of the striker. This may require slotting the holes in the striker in order to move it far enough to correct the problem.

.

Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. If these steps do not resolve the condition, please contact GM TAC for further diagnostic assistance. This diagnostic approach was developed for the vehicle with the VIN you entered and should not be automatically be used for other vehicles with similar symptoms.
Models:

(98, 99, 00, 01, 02 Chevrolet Corvette)

 

Its worth checking the other fuses further upstream (both in the footwell). These are:

Fuse # 27 10A HVACCON which fuses the Remote Door Lock Receiver
#32 15A F/TNKDR which also fuses the rear compartment lid/door lock switch

As Jack says, the latch is fused through fuse #26 in the footwell. The relay is #39 which I assume supports the trunk ajar sensor/switch function. The ajar must be working OK or you'd get a DIC caption saying trunk ajar.

 

I don't quite understand why you've been a member since 2005 and haven't filled out your profile, or at least mentioned what model Vette you have in your question. But looking back at some of your previous posts, it seems you may have a convertible. If so, your trunk problem may be that the tonneau cover for the top either isn't closing all the way, or whatever tells the car that the cover is closed may need repair or adjustment. I know that if the trunk is open, or not closed securely, the tonneau won't open, so it makes sense that vice-versa would be true also.

 

Try manually opening the trunk, then stand next to the latch and hit the FOB trunk button and/or the dash relaease button (have a friend do it). If it clicks, moves or does anything the electronics is likely working OK, but the mechanism is out of adjustment. If nothing happens when activating the button, the power isn't getting to the solonoid. Then you need to start tracing back to the relay, fuse etc.

 

Thanks guys.

First, I updated my profile. It was long overdue. It is not the tonneau. I double checked that.

It does not click or move or do anything. So, I am guessing it is the power related stuff.

I will recheck the fuses one more time. The next thing I have to check is the relay.
Athough, the ajar message does not show up.

My next steps are to check the relay and the tension spring. If that does not work then the wiring, perhaps....

 

Let me toss out a KISS option. Do you have a rear cargo net? If a bit gets caught in the latch you will have all the same symptoms. Been there done that.

 

Once you find the problem, put some lubricant on the latch components. If they dry out, even a working switch will not move the latch. Been there.

 

Find the relay for the trunk and place your finger on it. Then push the button on the remote. You should feel it click. If not remove the relay and find the relay signal terminal. Push the remote button and see if it lights a test light. If so the relay is bad. If the relay clicks put a test light on the output terminal of the relay while installed. Push the remote button and if it lights the problem may be the solenoid. If not its the relay. If the relay is good put the test light in the pos wire on the release solenoid and see if its getting power when you push the remote button. If so its the problem. You can try the last part first and test the relay all at once to save time if its not too hard to get to the plug. I have not looked at my car to see how hard it is to access. The relay is easy its in the fuse box. Could be inside or under the hood.