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Couldn't agree more. Do NOT mess around when it comes to working under your car.
Here's a pic of my Z up on ramps, ready for the rear to be jacked up:
Here's a pic of the rear jacked up, higher than the front so the oil can drain completely:
Having worked for a few years in a chemical plant, I'm very aware of safety. That being said, I think that the ramp choice, if certain basic characteristics are the same or equal is a matter of degree, or need. I have little intention on spending lots of time under my car, yet the new 12k Rhinos worked great allowing me to install the CAGS eliminator very comfortably. I backed up onto them and the tires fit perfectly, and I appreciated the bump stops as well.
Must have: I'm curious about the board I see on top of the jack pad. Approx what size is it???
Thanks Frank. I used your pix as reference and I actually was in contact with Mike. I decided on the Rhinos just to make things a bit easier and lighter. I'd like to see more pix of those ones you have in the rear tho'.
Thanks for all the input everyone! Reading through all of your posts is helping me out a ton! Especially for a new Vette owner...
I was lowered on stock bolts after a Vortec. Went ahead and bought the Race Ramps for three reasons. 1) to park on in the event of a flood (again), 2) because of the approach angle, 3) because of the detachable ramp that allows creeper maneuverability. You will not find a better ramp. They are very lightweight and do not slide upon approach. You can hang (store) them anywhere because they are so lightweight... or park on them. I then drive onto a couple of 2x12s in an outlined (sharpie) spot for the rear-end to get the jack under the cross member. Use jack stands at the rear puck locations and CHOCK THE FRONT! Perfect for proper oil changes. Afterwards, stack the lumber and jack on top. (Notice the water line at the bottom of the sheetrock.) That was a one-off storm, but I like the insurance. The rain started at 2AM and @ 0630 it was a lake. Glad I was high & dry!
As I originally stated, put a simple 16" beveled 2x4" on the approach of Rhinos, and your dam will not drag (if stock heigth). Ad a second (or reuse your approach piece) to the top tray for 1.5" additional clearance. Have done this on F-bodies and Vettes for close to 2 decades...works like a charm. I am sure that the "RaceRamps" are better overall, but for $300, i have Rhinos and an aluminum low profile jack that are perfect and work on all my other vehicles with enough $ for ten cases of Miller Lite. Just a thought......
Check this thread out: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/off-...car-ramps.html
About half way down the first page, PROFMORIARITY shows how to design your own "approach" ramps designed to work with the Rhino Ramps....I just built them and used them yesterday to replace my sway bar end links and bushings...Gives you plenty of room so you don't scrape the front end and the "locking pins" (made from carriage bolts) stop the ramps from sliding. Spent less than $50 at Home Depot for 2 x 2x12x8' Douglas Fir wood, carriage bolts, and screws. Thanks PROFMORIARITY
As I originally stated, put a simple 16" beveled 2x4" on the approach of Rhinos, and your dam will not drag (if stock heigth). Ad a second (or reuse your approach piece) to the top tray for 1.5" additional clearance. Have done this on F-bodies and Vettes for close to 2 decades...works like a charm. I am sure that the "RaceRamps" are better overall, but for $300, i have Rhinos and an aluminum low profile jack that are perfect and work on all my other vehicles with enough $ for ten cases of Miller Lite. Just a thought......
Trust me, if I had a garage full of lumber and word-working tools, I too would have saved the $$$. The car will barely fit. Cannot open the doors fully... To each situation, there is a remedy. Mine happened to be RRs. And Coors Light.
Trust me, if I had a garage full of lumber and word-working tools, I too would have saved the $$$. The car will barely fit. Cannot open the doors fully... To each situation, there is a remedy. Mine happened to be RRs. And Coors Light.
Understood fully my friend. I just did not like the sponsors arogant reply to my first post. Twenty years and no "flying wood" yet. He did not read my first post correctly in an attempt to sell a product. Are RRs superior...looks like it. But those of us on a budget, must chose a wise (yet SAFE) alternative here and there. I would LOVE to have a set of RaceRamps, but my Rhinos and jack do the job safely for less. Just my dum azz opinion! Miller and Seagrams are calling me again.......
Have a great night!
im gonna tell u guys just for safety reasons pls be careful buying those ramps as they can be very dangerous....i am a mechanic 10 yrs now and heard and seen alot of horror stories abt ramps....i perfer a floor jack (low profile) and some nice jack stands...just my opinion, i dont want to hear any stories involving yall
im gonna tell u guys just for safety reasons pls be careful buying those ramps as they can be very dangerous....i am a mechanic 10 yrs now and heard and seen alot of horror stories abt ramps....i perfer a floor jack (low profile) and some nice jack stands...just my opinion, i dont want to hear any stories involving yall
Sir, in no way, shape or form would I take on a true mechanic as yourself (absolutely no sarcasm intented). However, I have been using Rhino Ramps for close to two decades without incident. Could collaspe on me tomorrow, but I doubt it. I might also try to crush a Miller against my forehead in a stupor before I opened it...causing irreperable brain damage...but I doubt it. When you come from nothing...you adapt. Hopefully in a safe fashion. If not...at least you died under a Vette!
The only danger I could see is driving off the end of the ramps because most ramps dont offer a decent size stop for the tires. I can say that the race ramps would really take a lot for you to drive over the stop as it is about 3 inches high plus they are solid so they cant collapse.
The only danger I could see is driving off the end of the ramps because most ramps dont offer a decent size stop for the tires. I can say that the race ramps would really take a lot for you to drive over the stop as it is about 3 inches high plus they are solid so they cant collapse.
...and you are exactly right my friend. You must use extreme caution if using as I described. Keep in mind that I (or you) will be in the car while loading the ramps. If you go too far, you will only fall 4" to your rockers. Even with the 1.5" "spacers" on top, I have never come close to driving off as there is still an 1" stop. To each their own.......
Having worked for a few years in a chemical plant, I'm very aware of safety. That being said, I think that the ramp choice, if certain basic characteristics are the same or equal is a matter of degree, or need. I have little intention on spending lots of time under my car, yet the new 12k Rhinos worked great allowing me to install the CAGS eliminator very comfortably. I backed up onto them and the tires fit perfectly, and I appreciated the bump stops as well.
Must have: I'm curious about the board I see on top of the jack pad. Approx what size is it???
Any hardwood type of board will work. I think mine is about 20-22" long X 8" wide X 1/2" thick. Just make sure it is at least 1" wider than your rear cross-member is thick, so when you jack the car with the board, it spans the cross-member and balances the pressure. Works great, and helps protect your aluminum frame.
I personally think race ramps are worth every penny. I have never had one slip or anything, plus they are super light. I have had the standard ramps slip out from under the car while my dad was pulling up on them and shoot out across the floor right at me, after that I dont really trust them.
The cost was well worth the RaceRamps. They are very light, very strong and are perfect for what I do with Vettes.
You have just described a very good reason to not add height to the Rhino Ramps using a 1.5" thick board. I overlooked this when you mentioned this practice earlier. Doing this effectively eliminates the stops which are just a little higher than the "spacer". The steep incline on the plastic ramps requires extra throttle to get up the ramps and frequently a quick tap on the brakes to keep from going over the edge. The remaining stops won't do much to help from going over if you misjudge the throttle and braking.
Falling 4" to the rockers does not sound like a pleasant experience to me. Actually it sounds like an expensive repair experience.
Anyone adding the "spacer" to the top of the ramps should at least place some heavy duty wheel chocks in the path of the rear tires at a position that coincides with the front wheels being on the ramp platforms.
Originally Posted by fishmen222
...and you are exactly right my friend. You must use extreme caution if using as I described. Keep in mind that I (or you) will be in the car while loading the ramps. If you go too far, you will only fall 4" to your rockers. Even with the 1.5" "spacers" on top, I have never come close to driving off as there is still an 1" stop. To each their own.......
Last edited by Fred@ReverseLogic; Oct 31, 2011 at 05:07 PM.