When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have had my corvette for about 6 months now and would like to start doing some work myself such as oil changes, etc.. and was wondering if there are certain kinds of ramps I should use? I looked into the racing ramps (because of height restrictions) but I don't want to spend the $200 or so dollars it takes to buy them.. Are there any cheaper ones out there? Thanks.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I use Rhino Ramps but I also put a foot long or so 2X10 down in front of the ramp so the front spoiler does not drag off. My car is at the stock height.
Rhino ramps work fine if you throw a welcome mat under the back of each and if your C5 is not lowered at all. The air dam will scrape a small a mount but it's nothing to be worried about. If your C5 is lowered, you can use Eddie's suggestion.
Rhino ramps work fine if you throw a welcome mat under the back of each and if your C5 is not lowered at all. The air dam will scrape a small a mount but it's nothing to be worried about. If your C5 is lowered, you can use Eddie's suggestion.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Originally Posted by Greekg91
Mine is not lowered...What do rhino's cost?
I have a couple of sets of them. I bought the heavier ones that are sold at Advance the last time I bought a set. My first set are probably 15-20 years old now and still look great.
I use Rhino Ramps but I also put a foot long or so 2X10 down in front of the ramp so the front spoiler does not drag off. My car is at the stock height.
You should send a photo of the 2x10 on the top of the ramp to the Risk Management department at Blitz. I would be curious to know what they think of that configuration. My guess is that they would send you a letter recommending against that practice. The laws of ramp physics are not well understood by the average DIYer and I am sure many are surprised by the lumber flying around their garages from time to time.
Originally Posted by fishmen222
I only use 16" beveled 2x4s and they work great. Ad a set to the top of the Rhino Ramps (they fit in the wheel tray) and you pick up another 1.5".
Last edited by Fred@ReverseLogic; Oct 25, 2011 at 08:13 AM.
You should send a photo of the 2x10 on the top of the ramp to the Risk Management department at Blitz. I would be curious to know what they think of that configuration. My guess is that they would send you a letter recommending against that practice. The laws of ramp physics are not well understood by the average DIYer and I am sure many are surprised by the lumber flying around their garages from time to time.
I'll eventually need ramps too. What do you mean about lumber flying around? Is there a "right" way to use the 2x10's?
Past experience with ramps has turned me off to them entirely because they tend to slip out when I try to drive up on them. Jack stands have been my friend for a long time but the Vette seems to be too low for me to get my jack under there.
I personally think race ramps are worth every penny. I have never had one slip or anything, plus they are super light. I have had the standard ramps slip out from under the car while my dad was pulling up on them and shoot out across the floor right at me, after that I dont really trust them.
I also use Rhino Ramps, the welcome mat is a good idea, I have a painted floor and the ramps will slide. I actually used some of that rubber shelf liner under the ramps to keep them from sliding.
I'm not sure I feel comfortable with the jack stands for oil changes, when I jack up the rear higher than the front to drain the oil, I'll keep the ramps.
You should send a photo of the 2x10 on the top of the ramp to the Risk Management department at Blitz. I would be curious to know what they think of that configuration. My guess is that they would send you a letter recommending against that practice. The laws of ramp physics are not well understood by the average DIYer and I am sure many are surprised by the lumber flying around their garages from time to time.
That is why I said 2x4s dude. Have worked great for two decades. No wood flying as they are bolted (as if that would matter).
When the drive wheels are on an unsecured piece of wood and the remaining wheels meet just a slight resistance the drive
wheels tend to eat the wood and shoot it out like a pitching machine. Anyone who as ever tried to drive up onto four pieces of 2x8 probably found that the front tires did not climb the wood blocks and the blocks in front of the rear tires were about 50 feet behind the car. Just get a set of the 2-stage incline Race Ramps for about 300 bucks. When you sell your car you can easily get 50% to 75% back by selling the ramps right here on this forum. Alternatively, you could try to pick up a used set. Although there are not many of the 2-stage ones in the field yet. whee
Originally Posted by LouWags
I'll eventually need ramps too. What do you mean about lumber flying around? Is there a "right" way to use the 2x10's?
Past experience with ramps has turned me off to them entirely because they tend to slip out when I try to drive up on them. Jack stands have been my friend for a long time but the Vette seems to be too low for me to get my jack under there.
When the drive wheels are on an unsecured piece of wood and the remaining wheels meet just a slight resistance the drive
wheels tend to eat the wood and shoot it out like a pitching machine. Anyone who as ever tried to drive up onto four pieces of 2x8 probably found that the front tires did not climb the wood blocks and the blocks in front of the rear tires were about 50 feet behind the car. Just get a set of the 2-stage incline Race Ramps for about 300 bucks. When you sell your car you can easily get 50% to 75% back by selling the ramps right here on this forum. Alternatively, you could try to pick up a used set. Although there are not many of the 2-stage ones in the field yet. whee
I now see you must be refering to the rear wheels. I am only speaking of the front as the OP was refering to. Rear is by jack.
I could not imagine supporting a 10" wide tire on a narrow 2x4 so I assumed you used "2x4" to refer to any width 2" lumber. And yes bolting the 2x4 to the plastic ramp would make a difference with respect to flying around the garage. I doubt if Blitz would approve of drilling any holes in their ramps though.
Originally Posted by fishmen222
That is why I said 2x4s dude. Have worked great for two decades. No wood flying as they are bolted (as if that would matter).