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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 11:33 AM
  #21  
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I'd like to know too!!! That setup is PERFECTION!!!!!!
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 08:19 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by EZ2BEVILC5
As stated the wheels are 3 piece. You take them apart from the inside by removing the bolts. I had a 2" lip. I purchased a 3" lip. I put them back together with some silicone to seal them and prevent rust. I then rotated the 2" lip to the front making those 10.5". Overall pretty easy and enjoyable. The hardest part was cleaning the extra silicone. Mark G.
Thanks, good info. Were there any issues in getting the wheels true? Any rebalancing isssues? I assume that there is a particular sequence that the bolts were retorqued.
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 12:16 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by TriniJoe
Thanks, good info. Were there any issues in getting the wheels true? Any rebalancing isssues? I assume that there is a particular sequence that the bolts were retorqued.

Sorry if we are hijacking the thread to the original poster.

I called Fikse and they gave me the torque spec of 14LBS. I'm glad I called because knowing me I probable would have done 50LBS. He did not mention a sequence. I did go across like I was doing lug nuts and then in a circle at the end. I probably did 20LBS. 14LBS just seemed too light. I got the tires mounted and they balanced just fine. As far as them being true, again they did balance and I believe being 3 piece they are meant to be taken apart if needed. I will be driving it over to the paint shop Monday. I guess I will know for sure then.
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 01:30 AM
  #24  
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Thanks gents!

Fronts, 19x10.5, 285/30's
rears. 20x13, 345/25's
Tires, Pirelli P Zeros

Don't have the offset, sorry.

Originally Posted by jjtoma
JETZ

Like the rear view

What brand tires are those. Also what size the front.

Do you remember your rear back spacing or offset.

Thanks

Jim



PS-- MCM hood is awesome

Originally Posted by droptopC5vette
I'd like to know too!!! That setup is PERFECTION!!!!!!
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 10:39 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by rjb6mt
East Coast Supercharging they're also a vendor on the forum. Located in Cream Ridge, NJ. Give them a call and ask for Chris or Mike. One of them usually answers the phone.

Chris' (at ECS) last Z06 was mini tubbed. Give him a buzz:

www.eastcoastsupercharging.com

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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 03:37 PM
  #26  
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There has been some chatter about flares as opposed
to tubs. I have flares and if I had to do it over I
would have tubed. It's much cheaper to tub and
no painting. I gave this alot of thought before hand
and I guess I didn't realize how expensive flares can
be. Good luck which ever way you go.
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 11:01 PM
  #27  
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I'm going to resurrect this 3+ yr old thread and I'm hoping some of the posters here will chime in. Some of you may be aware that I'm putting a 418 LS3 in my 98 coupe in the next few weeks. The motor is coming out of a Camaro and is already dyno'ed at 750rwhp. I made a very good deal on an almost brand new forged motor. Definitely big boy stuff. Which brings me to my question. I like the original looks of the C5 so am not considering flares at this time. Instead, I'm thinking a nice winter time job would be to mini tub my coupe. I'm currently running 315/35/18's on 18x10.5 rims in the rear. I'm wanting more sidewall, wider, and a taller tire. So I see I can get some Toyo 345/40/17's for a decent price but no way they'll fit right now. I'm thinking of getting some 17x11 or 17x12 rims (CCW, Weld, ??) and then mini tubbing so they'll fit. I have questions in several areas. Will I encounter fitment issues with the 17" rims (such as rubbing on any suspension parts)? The 345/40/17 Toyos are about 27.8" tall so will I run into any issues with that tall of a tire? Car is not lowered. I'm running 17x8.5 stock size rims on front so I'll get new front tires about 1" shorter than the new rears. Thoughts? I'm also flame proof so feel free to razz me if I need it. My overall goal is to look pure stock with the exception of the nasty exhaust sounds and the big ol' meaty tires. All input appreciated. Don't be surprised if I bombard you with questions as well.

Last edited by CactusCat; Nov 5, 2015 at 11:02 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2015 | 07:31 AM
  #28  
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I am running 19x12 and at full drop on the suspension (like when you jack it up) the wheel almost hits the upper control arm. Don't know if this helps or not but there is a lot of factors that play into this.
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Old Nov 6, 2015 | 03:37 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by flynbya2
It's mostly fiberglass work and hidden by carpeting. If you can wield a wrench, tape measure and aren't afraid of glass work and are a hands on guy,you should be able to pull it off.
Vadered from archives:

http://teamzr1.com/tubC5.html
That's the ticket. Much cheaper than flares,and you get the same
result more room for the meat. Good luck.
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Old Nov 6, 2015 | 07:09 PM
  #30  
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..its not a big deal ...after you make the first CUT!
I used the Lingenfelter kit. It comes with the inner wheel extender
and the replacement wheel liner for the wider wheel well...

Have a great time doing too!

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Old Nov 6, 2015 | 09:57 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by bcarp
I am running 19x12 and at full drop on the suspension (like when you jack it up) the wheel almost hits the upper control arm. Don't know if this helps or not but there is a lot of factors that play into this.
Very much appreciate your response. You and all of the others that I've read about seem to be running 18s, 19s and 20s on their tubs. I'm guessing that the 17s wouldn't cause any more difficulties than the larger sizes but inquiring minds want to know. I'm wanting the extra height, width and primarily, more sidewall to help hook up 750rwhp. I'm really thinking this might be the way to go for me. Opinions appreciated.
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Old Nov 6, 2015 | 10:16 PM
  #32  
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Wanted to also mention that any pics would be appreciated. Also, besides the great look, how are they hooking up for you? I suppose the specs I'd be requesting are:
1) HP and/or Torque level
2) Tire sizes and brands
3) How well do they hook up and
4) Are you running an M6 or an A4?
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Old Nov 7, 2015 | 01:05 AM
  #33  
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I don't think the 'Lingenfelter' kit is available anymore.

frank
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Old Nov 7, 2015 | 01:51 AM
  #34  
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here some of my mini tubbed

I did very similar process as this link http://teamzr1.com/tubC5.html, very good DIY write up, great stuff

doesn't cost much but its very time consuming but you learn alot



i have fender flares on now too, i would probably fit 400 wide tires haha



i am running 345/35/18 Mickey Thompson ET-Streets II, its a 27.5 inches tall tire, dead hooks rolling pull @ 65mph 250shot nitrous, best drag radial I have ever used, and many 900-1100whp can vouch for them, very stable at high speed also


heres a good example viper with also 250 shot nitrous, 900wtq dead hooks rolling start

Last edited by Revolver ZSTi; Nov 7, 2015 at 01:59 AM.
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Old Nov 7, 2015 | 02:20 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by JETZ
I don't think the 'Lingenfelter' kit is available anymore.

frank
I have seen the Lingenfelter kit still around but the LPE kit is no more. If I do this, I'll be a DIY'er.
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Old Nov 7, 2015 | 10:48 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by JETZ
Lingenfelter kit. 345/25/20's

that looks amazing and very stealthy i love it..very well done!
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Old Nov 7, 2015 | 12:15 PM
  #37  
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Really lovin' this thread and the responses. Has anyone used or attempted to use 17s in the rear? Sure would like to see some pics of that if possible.
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Old Nov 7, 2015 | 10:07 PM
  #38  
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Mine's an original LPE Stage 2 (plus) car. On the street I run 345/18's (Mickey DRs) and for the track I run 295/16 Hoosier DR's. I do have a C6Z cradle swap so it pushes the wheel centerline back about an inch in the wheel opening. Its funny, I forget how big the street setup is until I take them off.....steamrollers for sure. And you'd never know

Street with 18s:









Track with 16's...



- Travis
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Old Nov 7, 2015 | 10:47 PM
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Those are awesome pics Travis. Might I impose a bit more? What sort of numbers you making on your Vette? And how well do the 345/18s hook up on the street? The last pic with the 295/16s all wrinkled up... That's schweet!! Also, just for fun.. what were your ETs with this setup? Sorry for being so nosy...
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Old Nov 8, 2015 | 04:48 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by CactusCat
Those are awesome pics Travis. Might I impose a bit more? What sort of numbers you making on your Vette? And how well do the 345/18s hook up on the street? The last pic with the 295/16s all wrinkled up... That's schweet!! Also, just for fun.. what were your ETs with this setup? Sorry for being so nosy...
I don't mind at all. Numbers don't really tell the story with my car because of the tranny/converter combo. The car has the RPM 4L80e/C6Z (tranny/rear) and the 4L80e eats some numbers up as it is. I also run a triple disk converter that during the dyno runs doesn't lock up because of the tuning parameters in the tranny tune. That non lockup eats a TON of numbers. Add that to the fact that my tuner uses a Mustang Dyno and I "have basically the worst combo for dyno numbers" so states my tuner.

All that being said, its currently making 700whp on pump gas and 16psi. This current tune is stable until 18psi where it made 750whp, and that's where we stopped. The car was tuned in the North East, but I've raced it all over the middle of the country during Hot Rod Drag Week without any concern or tuning changes. This year it ran a 9.36 at 146mph (1.45 60ft) at Gateway and a 9.33 at 148mph (1.46 60ft) at Indy. The third day at Union Grove it ran a 9.42 with a 1.50 60ft at 146mph. That pass it started to wheel hop bad before the 60ft so I had to come completely off the gas and back on to settle it down.

So, basically in a completely different part of the country with different altitudes and 87 degree heat its a 9.30s bracket car. That's foot braking it to about 2200rpm and leaving soft. Its got a trans brake in it but its never been used. I'm pretty confident that bumping the boost up to 18psi and taking the mufflers off (less backpressure) the car will be at 9.00. The whole exhaust is V-banded and sectional. Removing the mufflers literally takes 15 seconds.


Also keep in mind that's the "drive it any were, anytime street tune". When I get to the track literally all I do is swap to the drag pack, put the door bars in, and take off the left and right front air damn pieces as they trip the beams at some tracks. That's it....

As far as the street tires go....

I haven't really romped on it on the street too much. I live in a small town and I'm a police officer so I try and keep a low profile with the car. I can tell you that anything under 70mph with any sort of throttle input will just leave giant dark black stripes everywhere....for as long as you want to hold the throttle down. I highly doubt they will hook during a 70mph roll race, but again I can't tell ya for sure.

In my sig is a link to my youtube channel that has some in car and exterior videos of the car this year. Take a look, if it doesn't work for some reason just let me know and I'll post them. Feel free to ask any other question you might have as well. I've got a good amount of pics, but the car is currently at the shop awaiting the tranny's return from RPM.

- Travis
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