AZ, like most other AP outfits, have pre-programmed info that relates to the original OEM part ONLY. Same for Ebay, Amazon, Rock-Auto, etc, etc.

The long bolt starter was never installed in any model year of C5 from the factory, and that is why you may likely get a "does not fit" message either online, or from some kid behind a counter that only knows enough about most things to read what's on a computer screen, and if it's not on his "computer screen" he's lost.

 

Don't know why different part number other than he is showing for 2005 and mine was listed for 2007 Silverado 2500 2wd 6.0 liter but mine has been installed and working fine and was an exact fit except that it is the 2 long bolt design.

 

No need for lock washers if you are using regular starter bolts that have the knurled end next to the threads. The knurled part acts as a lock . There is obviously a reason the engineers designed these bolts this way years ago specifically for starters , so I wouldn't advise using something other than GM starter bolts with lock washers. You can buy the long starter bolt at the GM dealer to replace the one short bolt.

 

Most good old fashioned auto parts stores have been run out by the large corporate auto parts and now they are hiring young inexperienced guys or young girls that have never even seen under the hood. The only thing that they know is looking it up on the computer by make and model. If you go in to retrofit something for a street rod they are lost and depend on your own knowledge. Years ago the people that worked behind the counter were grease monkeys themselves and a young guy going in for help could depend on them for their help. The only parts stores left in our area that still have that old way of doing business is Napa and local guys called Hovis Auto Parts.

 

Yes, only use knurled starter bolts. The knurl is not to secure the bolt but to provide positive starter alignment.

 

This is the one I went with. Installed it with no problems. It started... once.... but I think my issue now is an ignition switch, instead of a starter.

 

I never said anything about NOT using the OE starter bolts, just that I am going to add a Nord-Lock lock washer to each one. The knurled section on the OE does not prevent bolt loosening.

 

Justin:

Sorry about your issue !
I hope you get it figured out soon !

Here is a post that sounds like your situation.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...sh-lights.html

Here is a write up from Bill Curley.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html

Hope this helps you out !
Toque

 

I agree with you 100%. If others don't want to use OEM bolts and not use locking devices then that is fine and I certainly hope they never have a problem. I just happen to be a professional engineer and teach fastener and joint design to new engineers in the nuclear industry among other things so what do I know? Mr. Sam P.E.

PS: If you look at some of the more recent OEM GM starter bolts they have ridges parallel to the bolt length next to the threads. In my experience neither design would be appropriate to secure the bolt/joint but rather assist in proper alignment. Also, if you think about it, how many times of removing and installing a bolt of this design into aluminum would it take before it would not perform any alignment or retention function?

 

Lonestar,

Apologize for any misunderstanding. I wasn't implying that you were advising non-OEM bolts. Just confirming the need to use them. Lock washers or even some blue Loctite as insurance/peace of mind can't hurt.

 

The knurls have nothing to do with starter alignment. That is done with shims when needed but has everything to do with keeping the bolts from working loose , otherwise the bolts would have lock washers installed from the factory. Just use the proper bolts and you won't have a problem.

 

Let's see if I can explain this better. If you notice the first .25"-.5" of the tapped starter mounting holes in the block are smooth. i.e. no threads meaning they have a larger diameter than the threaded portion. The bolt bores in the starter bendix housing are larger than the bolt threads. Obviously, or the bolts wouldn't fit. The shank of the bolt is knurled in order to enlarge the shank diameter. This enlarged diameter ensures a gapless fit into the recess in the block mentioned above. This is done to assure the drive gear on the starter is and remains perpendicular to the ring gear as well as transferring some of the bolt side stress from the threads to the shank. Bolts are much better at resisting pushing or pulling than side loads. The shims are required to set the depth of the drive gear into the ring gear. Many starter bolts are flanged and have scoring on the flange for lack of a better term to help retention. Take a look around your car or any car for that matter and count the fasteners with factory installed lock washers. (not star washers used for positive grounds on electrical connections) They relied on proper torque and flanged head bolts. It was and is way too time consuming to place lock washers on the thousands of fasteners used to build cars.
Check me out.

 

And the flange head design of many OE bolts are designed to perform the same function of a flat (mostly) washer which spreads the clamping load over a slightly larger area.
I think the factory knurls/splines may also have the added time-saving benefit at the factory of helping to hold the two bolts in place at the same time when the starter is being mounted, and help prevent them from dropping/falling out. One thing is for sure, these splines/knurls do NOT prevent bolts from loosening, although in fairness, I don't think the typical starter bolt in ANY car generally tend to come loose in the first place as the clamping force applied, plus the general (depending on vehicle) conditions in which it lives, usually don't see the vibrations sufficient or intense enough to cause loosening.
One thing is for sure though, and that is the consequence(s) of having a loose starter bolt fastener, is such that I will take a page from GMs lead on rear axles nuts on C6 (ZR1s), and use a couple Nord-Lock washers on my starter bolts which, unlike split-ring or star washers, positively prevent loosening. The only requirement is that the bolt tightening torque be 20% higher (resulting in 45 lbft instead of 37) and the use of thread-lube is highly recommended on the bolt itself. The added expense of a couple Nord-Lock lock washers is pennies compared to the potential consequences.

For those that may be interested, look up what Generous Motors uses under the rear axle nut on ZR1 Corvettes which, use the exact same axle nut as all the C5s and C6s. Nord-Lock washers. I've already purchased a pair for my rear axles, and will be installing them in the upcoming weeks. I will increase the torque setting to 150 lbft and use ARP Ultra-Torque assembly lube on the axle threads.

 

Sorry to take so long to get back to you, I have been chasing down other starting issues with the car, after replacing the starter, which turns out wasn't the issue.

I had to completely remove the entire H-pipe to get the starter out. The hardest part was getting the front to align back to the exhaust flange, because there isn't much room to wiggle it around.

 

I know this is an old post but I thought I'd add my .02. I bought a brand new Delco Remy starter from Auto Zone. The retail price is $183.99 with free shipping. It can be bought online right now with a 20% discount plus the core of $10 plus Nevada tax for $169.33. The part number is Auto Zone DLG9947S and comes with a lifetime warranty. It uses 2 long bolts to attach it to the car. It's the reason I bought it, so it hopefully won't break the engine block which has been reported. It didn't come with the 2nd long bolt. Their other DL9947S rebuilt does come with 1 long bolt so you can use your original long bolt and the new one to install it. The rebuilt is cheaper and also comes with a lifetime warranty. The one I bought is a brand new Delco Remy starter with part number 8000239 etched into the motor. If you search on Amazon this starter comes up right now for $99.95 with free shipping and a 1 year warranty. If you want to return it, you have to pay return shipping plus whatever down time you'll have waiting for a replacement. I elected to buy locally so if it does fail I can return it for a new one immediately. I actually had a $20 credit so with tax out the door was $149.33. Plus if I return the core I'll get back another $10-$11 for a grand total of about $139. I figure it was worth it to get it from Auto Zone. Yes you can buy a similar new imported or rebuilt on Amazon or Ebay for $50-$60. It wasn't worth it to me considering if it fails you'll have return shipping and downtime. Not to mention you'll have to R&R it again which for some people the exhaust has to be loosened or removed. I called a local auto and truck electric shop that sells new and rebuilt starters. He quoted me $125 with a 1 year warranty for part number 6492N which is an alternative number. This part number has the same specs as the 8000239. So I guess that's an option too. I did a bunch of searching and reading posts and I made up my mind to get a new Delco Remy with a lifetime warranty from Auto Zone.

As a side note, I was able to pick it up at my local Auto Zone only because they were out of them in the warehouse where the online orders are handled. The local manager gave me the 20% off since I couldn't order it online. If you run across this issue the local manager may override the price like they did for me. It was much more convenient.

Good luck and thanks for reading,

Art

 

I’m seeing one comment from an owner that he replaced his starter the old school way, by finding the sweet spot, and wiggling it out. I have to do this in the driveway, and on my first car, a repowered ‘67 Firebird with a Chevy 327 and headers, I learned how to do that. Also on my IROC. I think there’s always a wiggle way, they just don’t speak up about it much. I guess it’s what separates mechanics from parts changers. Anyway, thanks for the suggestions and long bolt starter part numbers. Was wondering why there were $150 and $350 AC starters on eBay, and a search led me here to learn about the block snapping nastiness. I guess it would be wise to use a torque wrench on this job. Don’t want to snap anything. Anyone else wiggled their starter out & wiggled a new one in without dropping the exhaust ? I definitely don’t want to move the exhaust. I wanna leave it alone !!! 😎👍🏼