When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I get in my present 2000 coupe, put in the key, turn it and start the car, wait for the memory seat to move up as I hook up the seatbelt, and then drive away. Never had any problems, never had to wait for anything, never heard of anything like this of waiting for the gauges to settle down, in the owner's manual or anywhere else. This is actually the first time I ever heard of this, and in my '99 coupe that I had from '99 to '02 I also never had any problems at all. Where did this "advice" come from? If there was some kind of a problem of not waiting for the gauges to go up and down, surely there would be some mention of this in the owners manual, right? And what about for the C6 and 7 - is there any mention of doing that in those cars? This sounds a little bogus or finicky to me, and there is no proof that doing it in alternate ways has any effect on anything.
I have noticed my car starts instantly if I wait for the cycle to finish and cranks longer if I get in and try to start it without. Not much longer, maybe a second or two.
Try it.
I too wait for the gauges to sweep and the bell to quit ringing. Nobody mentioned the message on the DIC that says Corvette By Chevrolet when the key is first turned on. I just love that. Just one other thing I do is before I turn the key off I shut off any accessories that I have on. I know I'm goofy but I do this in all of my vehicles. But I always get maximum life out of my batteries.
I too wait for the gauges to sweep and the bell to quit ringing. Nobody mentioned the message on the DIC that says Corvette By Chevrolet when the key is first turned on. I just love that. Just one other thing I do is before I turn the key off I shut off any accessories that I have on. I know I'm goofy but I do this in all of my vehicles. But I always get maximum life out of my batteries.
I have noticed my car starts instantly if I wait for the cycle to finish and cranks longer if I get in and try to start it without. Not much longer, maybe a second or two.
Try it.
That could be the fuel pressure coming up, especially if it's been sitting awhile...I've only noticed it on cold starts.
sometimes I wait others I don't will have to pay attention and wait for the gauges to clear before starting from now on. I have a 98 and once in a while I notice my Traction Control light comes on stays on for a while then goes off. What I have notice more is the security light stays on. Not every time I start the car but about 50% and stays on. The other 50% it does not come on, I have not notice any codes or anything irregular with the car.
I agree about variation in 5V being a bad thing, but I don't see how waiting another 10 seconds helps. It's not like voltage drops/spikes become less of a problem at that point.
My reasoning is during the gauge routine/test cycle if you begin to actually start the engine with the current required, there may be voltage fluctuations and perhaps spikes. I'm sure they have taken all that into consideration in the electronics design and everything should function as intended but sometimes the design may be at the part's tolerance limits. If someone has the time, will and a storage oscilloscope it would be interesting to monitor the power during the gauge routine while starting the engine. My 1.5 cents.
My reasoning is during the gauge routine/test cycle if you begin to actually start the engine with the current required, there may be voltage fluctuations and perhaps spikes. I'm sure they have taken all that into consideration in the electronics design and everything should function as intended but sometimes the design may be at the part's tolerance limits. If someone has the time, will and a storage oscilloscope it would be interesting to monitor the power during the gauge routine while starting the engine. My 1.5 cents.
The thing is, the various computers are monitoring things all the time, not just during the (mostly cosmetic) gauge sweep. If voltage spikes/drops big enough to matter are going to happen during cranking, it's not going to matter how long you wait.
Some folks fasten their seat belts before starting the engine, some don't.Bottom line it really doesn't matter. The car goes through the checks regardless.
The thing is, the various computers are monitoring things all the time, not just during the (mostly cosmetic) gauge sweep. If voltage spikes/drops big enough to matter are going to happen during cranking, it's not going to matter how long you wait.
Good point. I see what you are saying and that makes sense.
i wait till I hear the fuel pump finishing priming behind me, or whatever that noise is.
The car seems to start a little easier, after sitting for a couple of days, if I let the fuel pressure come up and the pump stop cycling before I crank it. After all, it is 17 years old. Would not surprise me a bit if the check valve is letting a little pressure bleed off over a couple of days.
I just bought an 04 Z06 with 21000 miles. it's like new. Then abs and traction control trouble lights came on and stayed on. Then I got the check battery charge light and saw the alternator was pegged. all my gouges shut down for a second and restarted. Gradually the same sequence of events happened again. This happened over about an 80 mile ride on curving back roads. Not stop and go. I am putting it in the shop tomorrow. any advice?
Also would you do your first track day on all stock tires and brakes? THey are brand new.
I would most certainly go with stock tires and brakes. Using stock tires and brakes on the track lets you experience your car as you will be driving it every day on the street. You will learn the capabilities of both the car and yourself.
I never had to until I installed the steering lock bypass...now I don't have a choice. My colomn lock wasn't broken but I did it to be safe. Now if I start it too quick I get the "remove key and wait" message. Compliance parts told me they would send a replacement but they never sent it so I've given up and have come to grips with waiting for the gauges to cycle.
If U have the LMC5 mod and I hope U do it states in the directions to let the gauges sweep and computers run their checks before starting or U may get the pull key 5 second message. I talked with Richard at Compliance and he suggested to do this and like some have stated it lets the fuel pump get up and running. What is 5 seconds out of your day. Happy Daddy's day to u fathers
A while back I had the dreaded "service ABS/Traction control" rear it's ugly head and it reset itself after turning it off & back on again-it did it again a few days later. That was over a month ago and since then when I get in to start it I turn the ignition on and wait about 15 seconds for all the bells, whistles, pumps etc to settle down and then I fire her up- and the car has behaved perfectly with no codes remotely related to the EBCM since. Does anyone else take the time to do this and have you had the same result? Not sure if it really has a bearing on anything but so far so good. Mine's a 2002 coupe w/90000 miles.
Personally, it could be the start of your EBCM going bad. Start getting your options ready. At the car's age and mileage things will go out. You are not getting the codes so you are lucky. The EBCM seems to be a repeat issue with the C 5s