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When installing headers, what else should you do?

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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 09:43 PM
  #21  
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Tunnel Heat Shield,keeps your console from becoming an oven
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Old Jan 20, 2016 | 06:09 AM
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Nice
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Old Jan 20, 2016 | 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 73Corvette
Nice
Thanks man
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Old Feb 29, 2016 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by DetroitPlac
I bought these for the wires and they're fantastic. Far cheaper than I could find anywhere else, and they stood up fine to repeated track use.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-LS1-LS2-LS4-LS6-LS7-Spark-Plug-Wire-Boots-Black-8Cyl-Made-In-USA-/231391022160?hash=item35dffacc50
DetroitPlac: I noticed these are 6" and I've seen other measuring 8". Do I need to be concerned with the exposed wire using the 6" insulator?

Originally Posted by Mickeyrx70
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Consider aluminized sleeving for AC lines that run close to the headers. You can also use them to protect O2 wires. Check Design Engineering Velcro Aluminized Sleeving 36" Heat Shroud (DEI 010495) on Amazon.
Mickeyrx70: went searching this morning and found the 36" sleeving, just not the part number you referenced. Had two options 0.5" and 1.5". What size needed and is this necessary if the headers are coated?
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Old Feb 29, 2016 | 04:36 PM
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I used the 1" version. The correct part # is DEI 010405 & it's available via Amazon Prime for about $30 shipped for the 36" lengths. I bought two. Sorry for giving you the wrong part number.
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Old Feb 29, 2016 | 04:40 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Mickeyrx70
I used the 1" version. The correct part # is DEI 010405 & it's available via Amazon Prime for about $30 shipped for the 36" lengths. I bought two. Sorry for giving you the wrong part number.
Thank you sir. I did see that one as well.
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Old Feb 29, 2016 | 04:41 PM
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I'm honestly not sure re: 6" vs 8". My main concern was covering the wires themselves next to the primaries since they're the most vulnerable. I reused the metal covers for the boots on the GM red wires, and combined with these socks, I can't see the wire at all when installed. I track my car and have had no issues, so these seem to be adequate protection, especially for the price.
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 10:34 AM
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a few other things you may want to consider:

-motor mounts
-remove the AIR system
-tune out rear o2 sensors, and block off
-replace front o2 sensors

Last edited by SaberD; Mar 1, 2016 at 10:35 AM.
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 10:59 AM
  #29  
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Amazon.com: Spark Plug Wire Boot Heat Shield Protective Sleeve 8 Cylinder -Black: Automotive Amazon.com: Spark Plug Wire Boot Heat Shield Protective Sleeve 8 Cylinder -Black: Automotive

For anyone wanting the 8" ones and 2 day shipping. Just ordered a set of these.
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 02:40 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Johnny wangwang
Amazon.com: Spark Plug Wire Boot Heat Shield Protective Sleeve 8 Cylinder -Black: Automotive

For anyone wanting the 8" ones and 2 day shipping. Just ordered a set of these.
Nice, and cheaper than the ones I was looking at in "natural" color. I prefer the black to keep them from being a draw to the eye.
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 02:43 PM
  #31  
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Yeah the Silver ones I had show oil stains to quickly.
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by SaberD
a few other things you may want to consider:

-motor mounts
-remove the AIR system
-tune out rear o2 sensors, and block off
-replace front o2 sensors
Good advice here

OP, Since you're running an 04 your existing AIR system should bolt up and your dipstick should be fine too. If you do decide to take out the AIR, make sure to remove it in the tune as well.

O2 sensors would be very easy to change but with only 24K i think you're fine.

plugs, wires without a doubt. If your car still has them, reuse the metal shields around the bottoms of the boots. GMPP Red wires will be fine for your application

if you disconnect the ground wires bolted to the driver's side of the block make sure to remember to bolt them back up! many members on here have forgotten, then comes the "Help my car isn't running right after header install!"

Definitely space out your rear O2s with anti foulers otherwise you'll get a CEL. Or, you can get them tuned out. If you're tuning the car after the install, make sure your tuner does that for you at the same time.

Remember to antiseize all hardware and retorque your header bolts after a few days!

Also, be sure to secure all wiring (starter, oil level sensor, and especially O2 sensor) up and away from those collectors to avoid them burning through.

Good luck and have fun! It's not a bad install at all.

Last edited by nsogiba; Mar 1, 2016 at 04:03 PM.
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 10:22 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by nsogiba
Good advice here

OP, Since you're running an 04 your existing AIR system should bolt up and your dipstick should be fine too. If you do decide to take out the AIR, make sure to remove it in the tune as well.

O2 sensors would be very easy to change but with only 24K i think you're fine.

plugs, wires without a doubt. If your car still has them, reuse the metal shields around the bottoms of the boots. GMPP Red wires will be fine for your application

if you disconnect the ground wires bolted to the driver's side of the block make sure to remember to bolt them back up! many members on here have forgotten, then comes the "Help my car isn't running right after header install!"

Definitely space out your rear O2s with anti foulers otherwise you'll get a CEL. Or, you can get them tuned out. If you're tuning the car after the install, make sure your tuner does that for you at the same time.

Remember to antiseize all hardware and retorque your header bolts after a few days!

Also, be sure to secure all wiring (starter, oil level sensor, and especially O2 sensor) up and away from those collectors to avoid them burning through.

Good luck and have fun! It's not a bad install at all.
Thanks for taking the time to write your comprehensive response. Lots of good tips not previously mentioned.

I plan to keep the AIR system in place.

Good advice to keep the metal wire shields, and gmpp red wires are on my Amazon wish list as soon as I am ready to purchase.

One thing I am a bit unsure of is the comment of spacing out the rear O2s with anti foulers. What does that mean? Do I need to purchase something to do this?
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Old Mar 2, 2016 | 07:30 AM
  #34  
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I need to do motor mounts on mine soon as I hear my shorties starting to shake against the frame. Will be waiting until I upgrade to long tubes to do it all in one shot. And will be adding a tunnel brace like shown above
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Old Mar 2, 2016 | 07:51 AM
  #35  
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I like the tunnel insulation idea. One of the few things I dislike about the car is how warm the tunnel gets.

Once home this spring I'm doing the sound deadening, should help a little with the heat.
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Old Mar 2, 2016 | 10:03 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by imgn tht
One thing I am a bit unsure of is the comment of spacing out the rear O2s with anti foulers. What does that mean? Do I need to purchase something to do this?
This is an Old school way of keeping the Computer from Throwing a code because it doesn't see that the Rear O2 sensor reading is cleaner then the fronts. If you are getting a tune, or are still gonna be running cats before the rear O2's you wont have to worry about this. If not then an easier way is to just get O2 sensor Simulators and remove the Rear o2's altogether.
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Old Mar 2, 2016 | 11:05 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Johnny wangwang
This is an Old school way of keeping the Computer from Throwing a code because it doesn't see that the Rear O2 sensor reading is cleaner then the fronts. If you are getting a tune, or are still gonna be running cats before the rear O2's you wont have to worry about this. If not then an easier way is to just get O2 sensor Simulators and remove the Rear o2's altogether.
Got it. I will be running cats still and they are the XS Power units with the cats before the O2s.
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Old Mar 2, 2016 | 01:00 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by imgn tht
Got it. I will be running cats still and they are the XS Power units with the cats before the O2s.
Then you should be all set! That only applies to the catless folks.
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Old Mar 3, 2016 | 04:52 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by imgn tht
Thanks for the info. I haven't begun to price out the cool socks and wrap yet, so I'll check that out. Thinking I may pass on the tunnel plate as well, only because it is quite pricey and not sure my driving habits will ever see a noticeable difference in cabin temps.
I have coated Melrose headers but I used this $20.00 2"x50' roll of Titanium header wrap
on my catted X-Pipe, 25 ft per side.
I used hose clamps on both ends and at both sides of the cats instead of the ties.
Made a real difference in console temps.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Titanium-Lav...pWC4W7&vxp=mtr

Last edited by StrangelovesM6Vert; Mar 3, 2016 at 04:54 PM.
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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 09:46 AM
  #40  
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Just a quick update for all.

My catted XS Power headers are currently getting Ceramic Coated. Hope to pick up within the next week. These are Version III brand new from Huron Speed.

I also ordered GMPP red wires, AC Delco plugs 41-110, and the Black 8" wire boots previous mentioned in this thread. Got all of these from Amazon. I also have anti-seize and dielectric grease at home ready to go.

I'm going to skip the tunnel plate for now. I don't put anything in the console except an emergency evacuation tool, and my commute is 5 miles one way, so I think I can live without it.

I forgot to order the AC line insulator, so we'll see how close the headers come to that and I can pick it up later if need be. And I'm crossing my fingers that the motor mounts will be good.

Lastly, I'm planning to get in touch with Chuck CoW for the tune after install.

If all goes to plan, I'm hoping to have the install wrapped up by the end of April. Weekends are starting to get scarce with kid's soccer and baseball ramping up.
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