When installing headers, what else should you do?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,051
Likes: 54
From: Raleigh NC
I can tell you those spark plug boots are NICE! They are thicker then the ones that came off my car. Almost 2x's as thick! They also cover the WHOLE spark plug wire down to the metal covers that are closest to the head.
Former Vendor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 11,792
Likes: 255
From: Ossining New York
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
Give me a ring....
Just a quick update for all.
My catted XS Power headers are currently getting Ceramic Coated. Hope to pick up within the next week. These are Version III brand new from Huron Speed.
I also ordered GMPP red wires, AC Delco plugs 41-110, and the Black 8" wire boots previous mentioned in this thread. Got all of these from Amazon. I also have anti-seize and dielectric grease at home ready to go.
I'm going to skip the tunnel plate for now. I don't put anything in the console except an emergency evacuation tool, and my commute is 5 miles one way, so I think I can live without it.
I forgot to order the AC line insulator, so we'll see how close the headers come to that and I can pick it up later if need be. And I'm crossing my fingers that the motor mounts will be good.
Lastly, I'm planning to get in touch with Chuck CoW for the tune after install.
If all goes to plan, I'm hoping to have the install wrapped up by the end of April. Weekends are starting to get scarce with kid's soccer and baseball ramping up.
My catted XS Power headers are currently getting Ceramic Coated. Hope to pick up within the next week. These are Version III brand new from Huron Speed.
I also ordered GMPP red wires, AC Delco plugs 41-110, and the Black 8" wire boots previous mentioned in this thread. Got all of these from Amazon. I also have anti-seize and dielectric grease at home ready to go.
I'm going to skip the tunnel plate for now. I don't put anything in the console except an emergency evacuation tool, and my commute is 5 miles one way, so I think I can live without it.
I forgot to order the AC line insulator, so we'll see how close the headers come to that and I can pick it up later if need be. And I'm crossing my fingers that the motor mounts will be good.
Lastly, I'm planning to get in touch with Chuck CoW for the tune after install.
If all goes to plan, I'm hoping to have the install wrapped up by the end of April. Weekends are starting to get scarce with kid's soccer and baseball ramping up.
Give me a ring.... Our AutoCal TUNE & BOOSTER! package is the only way to go!
I'll get you set up right.
914-332-0049
Chuck CoW
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 159
From: LaGrange Park, IL IL
St. Jude Donor '13, '15
Still debating on the motor mounts. Might just pick up some OEM ones from parts geek to have on hand just in case. Not sure I need polyurethane ones. If I were to get under the car to inspect my factory mounts will it be obvious they need replacing? From what I understand they will show signs of leaking of the hydraulic fluid. Is that the only reason they would be considered failed?
Former Vendor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 11,792
Likes: 255
From: Ossining New York
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
Do not do poly mounts....
Still debating on the motor mounts. Might just pick up some OEM ones from parts geek to have on hand just in case. Not sure I need polyurethane ones. If I were to get under the car to inspect my factory mounts will it be obvious they need replacing? From what I understand they will show signs of leaking of the hydraulic fluid. Is that the only reason they would be considered failed?
the engine compartment. Lots of high horsepower cars use stock mounts.
Surprisingly, they hold up very nice.
Chuck CoW
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 2,462
Likes: 460
From: East Windsor NJ
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 2,462
Likes: 460
From: East Windsor NJ
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,051
Likes: 54
From: Raleigh NC
Still debating on the motor mounts. Might just pick up some OEM ones from parts geek to have on hand just in case. Not sure I need polyurethane ones. If I were to get under the car to inspect my factory mounts will it be obvious they need replacing? From what I understand they will show signs of leaking of the hydraulic fluid. Is that the only reason they would be considered failed?
They make the car feel more solid yet Cheaper feeling at the same time. You FEEL the drivetrain in the car now. Jolts that the Stock mount would have absorbed will shake the car when you take off, shift, let off the gas etc.
The stock mounts make the vette feel like a Long Distance driver. But they are too cushy for me IMO.
Former Vendor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 11,792
Likes: 255
From: Ossining New York
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
You nailed it....
Ive got solid motor mounts in my car and to be honest If I didn't like the better throttle response that it gave and the shake that the car does with a cam then Id go back to stock if my car was a daily driver.
They make the car feel more solid yet Cheaper feeling at the same time. You FEEL the drivetrain in the car now. Jolts that the Stock mount would have absorbed will shake the car when you take off, shift, let off the gas etc.
The stock mounts make the vette feel like a Long Distance driver. But they are too cushy for me IMO.
They make the car feel more solid yet Cheaper feeling at the same time. You FEEL the drivetrain in the car now. Jolts that the Stock mount would have absorbed will shake the car when you take off, shift, let off the gas etc.
The stock mounts make the vette feel like a Long Distance driver. But they are too cushy for me IMO.
That's how I feel.
Chuck CoW
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 159
From: LaGrange Park, IL IL
St. Jude Donor '13, '15
Ive got solid motor mounts in my car and to be honest If I didn't like the better throttle response that it gave and the shake that the car does with a cam then Id go back to stock if my car was a daily driver.
They make the car feel more solid yet Cheaper feeling at the same time. You FEEL the drivetrain in the car now. Jolts that the Stock mount would have absorbed will shake the car when you take off, shift, let off the gas etc.
The stock mounts make the vette feel like a Long Distance driver. But they are too cushy for me IMO.
They make the car feel more solid yet Cheaper feeling at the same time. You FEEL the drivetrain in the car now. Jolts that the Stock mount would have absorbed will shake the car when you take off, shift, let off the gas etc.
The stock mounts make the vette feel like a Long Distance driver. But they are too cushy for me IMO.
Would I be able to tell they are bad by getting the car up in the air before disassembling everything? Is the leaking of fluid the only cause of failure?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,051
Likes: 54
From: Raleigh NC
I mean the way they are built you wouldnt really be able to tell unless they are leaking fluid or Cracked. Once of mine was leaking fluid when I swapped them. But the car still felt like nothing was wrong.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 159
From: LaGrange Park, IL IL
St. Jude Donor '13, '15
Update
I find that not many folks follow up after they have asked questions here and it can be annoying for folks doing searches later. So figured I'd swing back through here for another update.
Last weekend I installed the catted xs power headers along with new spark plugs and wires and wire insulators. My car already had an insulating wrap on the AC line and the mounts appear to be good.
Install took a total of 2 days taking my time and doing it on Jack stands in my garage. I was actually surprised that I got the driver's side header in place on the second try. The passenger side took a bit more force, even with the starter loosened, but still not bad overall. I actually found the most difficult part of the install getting the old manifolds off as I did not see the 6th bolt on either side hiding under the AIR connection and the driver's side rear manifold bolt was a PITA to get to. I also now see why people remove the AIR system completely...so much crap in the way. I decided to keep mine for now.
New plugs and wires went in easy and I used antiseize on them. I have the O2 sensor wires clear of the headers and secured. Happy to say NO clearance issues on the steering shaft or AC line. Plugs wires are protected with the boots, so feeling pretty good.
Car started right up on the first try and sounded obnoxious
. Drove it all week to work and have a few bits of follow up to attend to.
1. The driver's side mid pipe needs to get adjusted as it is currently laying up against the gas tank heat shield and clattering about.
2. The sound when under load is not quite as nice as I had hoped for. My GHL cat back is glorious and I was expecting just a louder/smoother version of it. But Instead I'm hearing quite a bit of whooshing like noise. Hard to tell if this is just the thinner walls of the headers and more noticeable drivetrain noise or something else. Will be doing another check for leaks while under fixing the mid pipe.
3. On my way home from work tonight I was idling in traffic and got a check engine light. A bit depressing to say the least. Turned up to be PCM P0430, low catalyst bank 2. From what I've been reading this evening it could be a bad catalytic. Which may also explain the noise I referred to above.
4. Possibly also related to the above catalytic, but the car just seems down on power. It's like the car is louder than it is fast, if that makes sense. The two aren't equal in my mind and feels less responsive than pre-headers.
If all turns out to be a bad cat, I guess I'll be speaking with Jon at Huron Speed on next steps. Lots of effort into this and overall not 100% satisfied, but I'm not going to whine about it. I'll figure it out, fix it, and move on.
Last weekend I installed the catted xs power headers along with new spark plugs and wires and wire insulators. My car already had an insulating wrap on the AC line and the mounts appear to be good.
Install took a total of 2 days taking my time and doing it on Jack stands in my garage. I was actually surprised that I got the driver's side header in place on the second try. The passenger side took a bit more force, even with the starter loosened, but still not bad overall. I actually found the most difficult part of the install getting the old manifolds off as I did not see the 6th bolt on either side hiding under the AIR connection and the driver's side rear manifold bolt was a PITA to get to. I also now see why people remove the AIR system completely...so much crap in the way. I decided to keep mine for now.
New plugs and wires went in easy and I used antiseize on them. I have the O2 sensor wires clear of the headers and secured. Happy to say NO clearance issues on the steering shaft or AC line. Plugs wires are protected with the boots, so feeling pretty good.
Car started right up on the first try and sounded obnoxious
. Drove it all week to work and have a few bits of follow up to attend to. 1. The driver's side mid pipe needs to get adjusted as it is currently laying up against the gas tank heat shield and clattering about.
2. The sound when under load is not quite as nice as I had hoped for. My GHL cat back is glorious and I was expecting just a louder/smoother version of it. But Instead I'm hearing quite a bit of whooshing like noise. Hard to tell if this is just the thinner walls of the headers and more noticeable drivetrain noise or something else. Will be doing another check for leaks while under fixing the mid pipe.
3. On my way home from work tonight I was idling in traffic and got a check engine light. A bit depressing to say the least. Turned up to be PCM P0430, low catalyst bank 2. From what I've been reading this evening it could be a bad catalytic. Which may also explain the noise I referred to above.
4. Possibly also related to the above catalytic, but the car just seems down on power. It's like the car is louder than it is fast, if that makes sense. The two aren't equal in my mind and feels less responsive than pre-headers.
If all turns out to be a bad cat, I guess I'll be speaking with Jon at Huron Speed on next steps. Lots of effort into this and overall not 100% satisfied, but I'm not going to whine about it. I'll figure it out, fix it, and move on.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 159
From: LaGrange Park, IL IL
St. Jude Donor '13, '15
Been a little over a month now with the new headers in place. Had some issues that I've been slowly addressing.
That CE light I mentioned earlier prompted me to go back under the car and I found one of the front O2 sensor harnesses was getting melted by the primary. Just damaged a bit of the shell, nothing impacting performance. The take away, don't bother with reusing the factory mounting point on the frame rails. Instead I got some zip ties and moved the electrical harness further back for future peace of mind.
I also found he whooshing noise to be exhaust leaks at the x-pipe to mid pipe extensions connection. Didn't like the band clamps that came with system so I bought new ones from eBay. Driver's side tightened up nice and noticeable difference in sound...much cleaner. Passenger side still feels like a leak is present, so I may need to do more tweaking there or take it to a local muffler shop for their assistance. May also get new exhaust gaskets for the axle back as I think they may be a culprit too.
While I was under there redoing the band clamps, I readjusted the mid pipes to stop the clattering against the gas tank heat shield and rear over the axle frame section.
Still getting a random CE light, was PO430, then PO492, now PO430 again today. Planning to try some anti-foulers as was suggested earlier in this thread. Still need to do the tune, so can program this out if necessary. Got emissions notice that needs to be completed by mid July, so will attend to this soon
That CE light I mentioned earlier prompted me to go back under the car and I found one of the front O2 sensor harnesses was getting melted by the primary. Just damaged a bit of the shell, nothing impacting performance. The take away, don't bother with reusing the factory mounting point on the frame rails. Instead I got some zip ties and moved the electrical harness further back for future peace of mind.
I also found he whooshing noise to be exhaust leaks at the x-pipe to mid pipe extensions connection. Didn't like the band clamps that came with system so I bought new ones from eBay. Driver's side tightened up nice and noticeable difference in sound...much cleaner. Passenger side still feels like a leak is present, so I may need to do more tweaking there or take it to a local muffler shop for their assistance. May also get new exhaust gaskets for the axle back as I think they may be a culprit too.
While I was under there redoing the band clamps, I readjusted the mid pipes to stop the clattering against the gas tank heat shield and rear over the axle frame section.
Still getting a random CE light, was PO430, then PO492, now PO430 again today. Planning to try some anti-foulers as was suggested earlier in this thread. Still need to do the tune, so can program this out if necessary. Got emissions notice that needs to be completed by mid July, so will attend to this soon