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Pay particular attention to post #15 which talks about the sub codes of the C1255. You may need someone with a Tech II to be able to break out the subcodes. This will give you a better idea if the problem is repairable or if you need to start looking for a used EBCM.
That is from 8VETTE7
I would also Start checking grounds and see if the unit is getting proper voltage
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...I applaud you for taking on this venture, there has been another member on this forum that has tinkered with these units and was partially successful on earlier units, but not a 100% fix rate on pre-2001 units. Hopefully you can get someone here to direct you to that person, I can't find his name or post at this time. In conversations with others in regards to this EBCM problem, it's only a matter of time before a solution can be found. Good luck brother, we that own earlier models are pulling for you !!...
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
C1226 RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation. Also I would clear all the codes and drive it and see what returns. Pull the codes B/4 he turns the car off post what codes are there with the H C that follows each code
I visit here very rarely but had a 00 C5 for 13 years that developed this issue. To the OP if you are the technical savior for this problem the forum is your friend. You can save a lot of time and money doing searches on here. You are not the first to take on this challenge nor I suspect the last. I spent 2 years chasing it including taking to GM.
Exercising the brakes which is a great idea does not do much for the unit. It is not mechanical. The brake system is and thus you are exercising the ABS valves and the like. A nice snowy non salt if you prefer day it is great as is wet grass and if push comes to shove gravel. After the C5 experience I exercise all my ABMS cars.
BTW the GM story was this.......... GM and Delco went bankrupt. Many schematics and the like where either part of the case and or destroyed. So the pre stuff basically disappeared. Limited demand... yes they are shorting out but not in enough volumes to justify someone turning dollars on reengineering something.
At the end of the day after finding the only suppler of recycled units (who was in Riverside Ca, can't remember the name) he could fix some units but was collecting as many junk units as possible; told me worse case he'd provide me a used unit for $2K. Now this was a $200 part when available. So I traded the car and the problem went away. 3 Corvettes later and $200K I fixed my ABMS problem!!!!
You know what? Should have kept the C5. Had black electrical tape over the amber light and I 60+ so ABMS and traction control or lack there of is not that big a deal. I got a 16 Z and track the car so ya I enjoy it. But I do miss the C5. Its still local so I hope to snag it back someday.
That would be the logical way of creating a "fix" wayne. Back in the day, I worked on MILSPEC equipment that was epoxied for weather protection on the Pershing missile. The Epoxy was virtually impossible to remove without damaging the circuit board, thus a broken component was considered trash. It's good to see someone competent is looking into a fix that has actual potential.
BTW, the later model EBCMs are not epoxied, and several people have successfully repaired many of them. Most 2001+ units that have been fixed seem to be due to 'cold solder' joints.
That would be the logical way of creating a "fix" wayne. Back in the day, I worked on MILSPEC equipment that was epoxied for weather protection on the Pershing missile. The Epoxy was virtually impossible to remove without damaging the circuit board, thus a broken component was considered trash. It's good to see someone competent is looking into a fix that has actual potential.
BTW, the later model EBCMs are not epoxied, and several people have successfully repaired many of them. Most 2001+ units that have been fixed seem to be due to 'cold solder' joints.
I blame the cold solder joints 99% on lead free solder. It just cant stand up to any heat cycles, especially if the joint was bad to start with. Flexing and vibrations only compound the problem.
I am going to make a post in the classifieds area and link this thread. I am sure I will get a couple dead units to play with.
In the mean time I will copy and past those info threads to Jeff and wait to hear what happens.
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
Originally Posted by Wayne Wonder
I blame the cold solder joints 99% on lead free solder. It just cant stand up to any heat cycles, especially if the joint was bad to start with. Flexing and vibrations only compound the problem.
I am going to make a post in the classifieds area and link this thread. I am sure I will get a couple dead units to play with.
In the mean time I will copy and past those info threads to Jeff and wait to hear what happens.
If it were me trying this I would call Marc at vettenuts.net. He parts out alot of cars. Just a thought
I think you need to know there is software on the board. That is way they are not being remade made. You would need 1/2 million dollars to replicate it if you were lucky.
I think you need to know there is software on the board. That is way they are not being remade made. You would need 1/2 million dollars to replicate it if you were lucky.
Good luck.
Mr. Sam
You sure that there is a micro controller with code programmed into it on this board? You also sure that the code cannot be copied from the chip? And finally you're sure that the chip is the part that has gone bad?
$500k is a silly figure unless you know what chip is being used and what the data sheet says. My guess would be that GM would take and off the shelf micro controller and build the system and code around that. It would be pretty odd if GM had a special ASIC designed for just this specific component. Even if they did chips can easily be swapped to a new board with the proper tools.
I have accepted a challenge and I will follow through with that challenge until I prove to myself that it is out of the scope of my capabilities.
Keep in mind that I am using my personal time and my personal equipment to help try to solve one of YOUR problems.
Back on topic. Corrosion was found on some of the chassis ground connectors. Those are going to be cleaned with a follow up test drive this weekend. If this solves the issue I will not have an EBCM to play with.
I have not found any broken modules on eBay yet. I am going to need a known bad EBCM to get started.
From my experience. I repaired the EBCM on my '02Z, the 5 solder joints were all fatiguing. I carefully touched them with my soldering iron and very thin solder. Codes gone, worked perfectly.
I was considering a pre-2001 until it was beaten into my head by a few knowledgeable people that the EBCM on those cars are NOT repairable.
2001 Coupe. This worked for me! Removed and disassembled the module (car can be driven with module out). Although the relay is the alleged problem point, I cleaned and re-soldered every pin. Re-assembled and re-sealed the unit, and it has been rock solid now for 4+ years! YMMV!
Last edited by CheezMoe; Mar 10, 2016 at 01:10 PM.
Sending along best wishes in your endeavor, you can become a hero to the community. Not to mention making a tidy sum of dollars to buy that Stingray.
That would be one hell of a reward. Although the goal is to provide a solution that doesn't gouge the owners. As my grandfather always said "PIGS GET SLAUGHTERED"
I am going to try and contact the member listed a few posts up and see if he has any known bad modules that he can part with.
That would be one hell of a reward. Although the goal is to provide a solution that doesn't gouge the owners. As my grandfather always said "PIGS GET SLAUGHTERED"
I am going to try and contact the member listed a few posts up and see if he has any known bad modules that he can part with.
I wish you all the best of luck in this venture!
My Dad's phrase was "Pigs get fat, hogs get slaughtered"!